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Contaflex Super BC loose optical mount

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bernard_L

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This is --partly-- a follow-up to an oldish thread about double images:

Returning to that camera, I noticed that, grabbing the front element, I could move it very slightly, the tactile input confirmed by the sound.
I embarked into an overhaul of the camera body; the Super BC is more over-engineered than the contaflex I or II. After dis- and re-assembling the lens assembly to the front plate, and the front plate to the camera body, the wobble of the front element had disappeared. Joy! A few test frames... double images still here.

Then, having removed the front element (bayonet mount) I now grabbed the center element, and... it wobbles. Very little, but it wobbles. And the slack is somewhere between that element and the base of the shutter assembly (that interfaces with the front shutter plate). Pretty little documentation about the shutter assembly. The Zeiss service manual considers it as a single component. The Deckel manual just gives a (partially) exploded view and some cutaways in the lubrication section. So I unscrewed the middle element, then removed the light baffle plate, the speed cam and main ring. See below

1747828517234.jpeg


The screws securing the brass barrel A to the black baseplate B are tight. But the baseplae B jiggles slightly with respect to the aluminum casing C. I an reluctant to dis-assemble the shutter components: will lose speed adjustent which sounds OK for now.
Question: where are the screws that fasten B to C ?
Thank you for reading
 
For the convenience of viewers, and to avoid going back to that old thread, the problem can be summarized in this 2017 image of a 220V tungsten lamp powered at 120V, and photographed at ~3m distance.
2017-post38-B-4.jpg
 
I've also got a Contaflex Super BC with a loose optical mount. Can you tell me how you got the shutter loose? The Super repair manual mentions 3 screws, but these are hardly reachable in the Super BC.
 
I've also got a Contaflex Super BC with a loose optical mount. Can you tell me how you got the shutter loose? The Super repair manual mentions 3 screws, but these are hardly reachable in the Super BC.

First the three screws. If you need to remove them, you better remove them from the back. Granted, one of them can be accessed only in an oblique way. That is still OK if the screwdriver blade fits snugly; I checked, and a Wera 0.4x2.0 fits just right; the blade thickness being the most important parameter.

In my case, I started on the SuperBC after repairing a ContaflexII. For the CII separating the lens is simpler --a retaining ring-- partly because the front-element focusing simplifies the linkages between body and lens. Why this digression, you did not ask about the Contaflex II? Read on. For the CII, the problem was in the gear train between the advance/cocking knob and the lens. So I had to remove the top of the body.

Moving on to the SuperBC, and seeing how the access to the three screws was oblique, I did it the hard way. Remove the front plate (four screws at the front, under the leatherette); but the plate won't come off if the top is not lifted. It's crowded underneath. Re-assembly, esp. the galvanometer, is something. In retrospect, I would have unscrewed the three screws from the back. Even so, when putting back the lens assembly, you need to make sure all the linkages fall in place.

Back to your problem. "Loose optical mount" can have several causes.
  • Front plate loose against chassis. As mentioned previously, four screws on the front, under the leatherette, on either side of the lens.
  • Fixed part of focus helicoid against front plate. The infamous three screws.
  • Some play in the focus helicoid. Unlikely IMO.
  • Optics (except front element) loose against moving part of focus helicoid. That was my problem; see my post #1 above. The culprit screws were hidden below some of the shutter components, but I could leave the escapement in place and did not lose the speed settings.
  • Front element sits on its own flange, hat might be loose.
Good luck!
 
Just so you know what you are stepping into if you remove the top.

Below is the galvanometer prepared for re-installation. You are looking a the underside. The galvanometer fits in sort of cavity, so one does not see the underside during assembly. The green thread (Polyethylene fishing line) is holding back a spring-loaded lever. That lever must go on the proper side of another lever emerging from the chassis at the bottom of the cavity; the two cooperate to tell the meter what shutter speed has been selected.

So you carefully lower the galvanometer into the cavity, then release one end of the green thread, and carefully pull the other one. Then check that speed settings on the Compur barrel are reflected properly in the viewfinder display.

IMG_3889.JPEG
 
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