Do you use a sleeve or straight neg on paper with glass? Something tells me you use the sleeved method.
haha yeah sleeve on some photo paper and a piece of glass on it. It seriously doensn't need to be perfect or not in a sleeve because it's dirty. It can be out of focus and look like crap, it's just a reference point so you don't have to pull out a light table and loupe. Just flick the lights on see the picture you like or clarify which neg is better and then you go back to printing...
Contact sheets are an essential point in the path to a fine print. Of course, I gave up on them as well!
I think they are overrated. Perhaps for 35mm they save some eye strain but I don't like making them.
They are tedious and time consuming. I have limited darkroom time anyway.
Are you primarily shooting people or still life/landscapes?
Good Evening,
This is relevant to a couple of things in the recent posts on this topic.
Consistency--I learned sometime decades ago that contact sheets should always be made exactly the same way: same lens, same enlarger height, same paper, same f-stop, same exposure time, same, developer, etc. regardless of the film or format used. That way, the number of variables is reduced, helping to diagnose possible problems, such as a camera shutter or diaphragm which may be slightly malfunctioning. If the exposure of contact sheets is constantly changed based on the appearance of different sets of negatives, that diagnostic function is at least reduced. Consistently-made contact sheets also make it simple to print from different rolls of film (and different types/brands of film) during one session, since one quickly establishes a kind of base printing exposure and can work from that depending on the appearance of the frame on the sheet. After the first or second negative printed in a session, it doesn't take a lot of experience to be hitting subsequent exposures dead-on the first time that way.
Konical
I do not suggest that there is an absolute "right" or "wrong" in this matter, merely that I find value in trying to reduce, when possible, the number and extent of variables; it seems to me that aiming for precision and consistency is the best way to achieve this goal.
Konical
I agree that there is no right or wrong but at least I thought your method, and mine as well, was the SOP, to be used as (only) a diagnostic and organizing tool. If the OP and others are making test strips, mini-prints, of their contact sheets I can see how that can be very tedious indeed.
For me, if the image(s) on the contact sheet passes the sharpness and smell test, I'll investigate further via a 24" iMac.
Sure, but you do realize a lightbox and a loupe is actually faster?
Does anybody here feel like a contact sheet factory?
Every time I get in a darkroom, there's always tons of negs waiting to be printed, so more than 3/4 of the session is just printing contacts!
And if I don't print the contacts, there's a good chance I'll never see the picture-- because it takes so much time to get one good print out of 12 negs (6x6) or one good print out of 36 (35 mm)!
I really need to retire, so I can do darkroom all day!
But not as fun, imho.
IMO, the lightbox and loupe with a contact sheet are like a little miniature world where you follow the storyline of the roll... Scanning and looking at it on a monitor, no thanks, personally.
If you want to evaluate a negative, use an eye loupe. If you want to evaluate an IMAGE, you need to see it as a positive. That's what a contact sheet/proof is all about.
If you want to evaluate a negative, use an eye loupe. If you want to evaluate an IMAGE, you need to see it as a positive. That's what a contact sheet/proof is all about.
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