Considering adding MF film to my toolbox // Hasselblad 501cm/500cm

Andreas Winter · Sep 21, 2016

Hey guys.

I am completely new here and just been browsing through the Medium Format forum section, reading everything I can about Hasselblads. Great forums. I am working as a photographer in Norway and am currently using a Canon 1D X and a Canon 5DsR for all my work which involves people, marketing, product photography (clothes mainly) and landscapes (for galleries, for selling to companies etc).

I am considering a Hasselblad for the quality, the size of the negatives and the great look and result which film gives. I think I can, without too much hassle (heh!), work it into my workflow when shooting landscapes. Currently I shoot a lot of it with telephotos, so I am a bit worried about the 500cm and how I have heard it might cut off a portion of the image with certain lenses. Will this be a big problem, or is it just millimeters?

Price wise the 500s are quite a lot cheaper than the 501cm. I guess my main question is: is it worth it? Will I regret not going for the 501cm? I always get the best gear so I can get the best results, but at the same time I don't like to waste money. Anything else I should be considering when, possibly, going into film and MF and Hasselblads? I got my eyes on the CF lenses, and am paying attention to the different focus screens as I really want something accurate - I have not got a full overview over the different choices yet.

You can check out some of my work here: http://andreaswinter.no and here: https://www.instagram.com/andreas_winter/ to get a feel for what I do and what would be best for me. Appreciate any help as this is a whole new world to me. But one that got me really excited. Thanks in advance!

-Andreas

RalphLambrecht · Sep 22, 2016

Andreas Winter said:
Hey guys.

I am completely new here and just been browsing through the Medium Format forum section, reading everything I can about Hasselblads. Great forums. I am working as a photographer in Norway and am currently using a Canon 1D X and a Canon 5DsR for all my work which involves people, marketing, product photography (clothes mainly) and landscapes (for galleries, for selling to companies etc).

I am considering a Hasselblad for the quality, the size of the negatives and the great look and result which film gives. I think I can, without too much hassle (heh!), work it into my workflow when shooting landscapes. Currently I shoot a lot of it with telephotos, so I am a bit worried about the 500cm and how I have heard it might cut off a portion of the image with certain lenses. Will this be a big problem, or is it just millimeters?

Price wise the 500s are quite a lot cheaper than the 501cm. I guess my main question is: is it worth it? Will I regret not going for the 501cm? I always get the best gear so I can get the best results, but at the same time I don't like to waste money. Anything else I should be considering when, possibly, going into film and MF and Hasselblads? I got my eyes on the CF lenses, and am paying attention to the different focus screens as I really want something accurate - I have not got a full overview over the different choices yet.

You can check out some of my work here: http://andreaswinter.no and here: https://www.instagram.com/andreas_winter/ to get a feel for what I do and what would be best for me. Appreciate any help as this is a whole new world to me. But one that got me really excited. Thanks in advance!

-Andreas

I'm using a 501c with a CarlZeiss 250mmCFf/5.6 lens and don 't see any mirror clipping in viewfinder or negative

jeffreyg · Sep 22, 2016

I have a 500C/M and a 500CXi and use both with a 50, 80, 150, 250 and 350 as well as the 50, 150, 250, and 350 in combination with the 2x converter with no clipping. I use the PM5 (no meter) prism finder.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

jeffreyg · Sep 22, 2016

From above I don't use the 50 with the 2x just typed too fast.

mweintraub · Sep 22, 2016

If you're not stuck with getting a Hassy, look at the Bronica SQ-A series. Fantastic bodies (less finiky) and amazing lenses for fraction of the price.

etn · Sep 22, 2016

Regardless of the model, be sure to go for a well maintained camera and have it serviced from time to time. The condition is more important than the exact model. Any Hasselblad is a great picture taking device. Just avoid the 500C as it is older and has no interchangeable focusing screens.

If you are on facebook, you might want to join the "Hasselblad classified" group, some good deals pop up from time to time (e.g. there's a like new black 501CM listed there at the moment, complete with lens and latest-style back). Also look at Apug classifieds, lots of good stuff there too. Take your time to analyze the market before buying.

To answer your question, the lens and film back are much more important than the body itself to image quality. This is where your money should go in my opinion. If you don't mind the extra weight go for an electrical body such as the 553 (which takes AA batteries), they are much cheaper than manual Hasselblad bodies.

Other brands (e.g. Bronica) have a lot to offer for a fraction of the price as mentioned above, but I am no specialist so I will let others comment on this topic.

Hope this helps,
ETN

Alan9940 · Sep 22, 2016

I have used a 500C/M for 30 years with a variety of lenses and it's a great camera. However, unlike what a couple of others have said I do see a bit of clipping in the viewfinder with my 250CF lens. But, with a PM5 prism and acutte-matte screen it's not that noticeable. I believe starting with the 501 and later Hasselblad put in a "floating mirror" (or, whatever they called it) to avoid this issue. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

On the image quality side of the coin, I'll probably get slammed for this statement but IMO you won't realize much quality difference between the Hassy and your 5DSr. That said, what you will realize is a look from film that cannot be duplicated in the digital world. It's hard to explain, but once you've been around both outputs for long enough it will be clearly noticeable.

Bottom line... You really can't go wrong with any of the V system models as long as they're used and maintained; though I probably would avoid the 500C as others have said. Not that it's a bad camera, rather there are so many of the later models to choose from and at reasonable prices.

Good luck!

Soeren · Sep 22, 2016

mweintraub said:
If you're not stuck with getting a Hassy, look at the Bronica SQ-A series. Fantastic bodies (less finiky) and amazing lenses for fraction of the price.

Yes the Bronica is a great alternative to Hasselblad for squares. But you could also look at 6x7 like Pentax or Mamiya RZ series. The electronic shutters in all of the above alternatives also will free you of the hazle with stuck and hanging shutters from laying around unused for too long.

ac12 · Sep 22, 2016

Since you plan to shoot tele lenses, get the 501 or you will be second guessing yourself for years. "Maybe I should have bought the 501."
BTW, you do understand that it is just the viewing image, not the negative image that is affected by the floating/pivoting mirror of the 501 vs the 500.

gud luk

Slixtiesix · Sep 22, 2016

Which kind of post-development procedure are you planning? Do you want to make darkroom prints or do plan to scan? If you are really looking for the ultimate resolution and quality, the price difference between a 500CM and 501CM is negligible compared to what the lenses will cost you. It may be 200-300 Euro. As Etn said, you can also get a 553ELX or 555ELD, if you do not mind the additional weight caused by the motor and batteries. The 555 also has the benefit that you can use a digital back pretty seamlessly. I use this camera myself with film. Both the 553 and 555 have the gliding mirror you are looking for and the latest screen technology. They both are way cheaper than a 503CW, although they offer all the features of the latter and then some. Mount a 180/4 or 250 SA and your needs will be fulfilled.

mweintraub · Sep 23, 2016

Soeren said:
Yes the Bronica is a great alternative to Hasselblad for squares. But you could also look at 6x7 like Pentax or Mamiya RZ series. The electronic shutters in all of the above alternatives also will free you of the hazle with stuck and hanging shutters from laying around unused for too long.

I also have both the Pentax 6x7 and RZ67 and right now, the SQ-A is my favorite (slight lead). The Pentax 6x7/67 have dim focus screens (I'm looking to fix that) and the RZ67 is a little bigger and bulkier (but that doesn't keep me from carrying that thing around!).

Sirius Glass · Sep 23, 2016

Welcome to APUG
I have the 50mm, 80mm, 100mm, 150mm and 250mm CF lenses and the 500mm C lens. My 503 CX does not have the gliding mirror so I can see a little bit of cutoff in the viewfinder with the 250mm lens and the 500mm lens. The cutoff is so small that I do not notice it when I am using the lens and of course it does not show up on the negative.

I would stick to CF or later lenses since almost all those lenses use the B60 filters and one set of filters will work with almost all the CF and later lenses. Parts for the C lenses, springs in particular, are getting harder to find, so stick with the CF and later lenses.

Feel free to ask questions.

Andreas Winter · Sep 24, 2016

Thanks for the fantastic respons, guys. Really helps me. The Bronica, Mamiya and Pentax suggestions are interesting, but there's something that draws me towards Hasselblad. I really like how the camera looks and feels. And that is a very interesting part, just how a camera, especially being analog, can affect you and how you think.

etn said:
Regardless of the model, be sure to go for a well maintained camera and have it serviced from time to time. The condition is more important than the exact model. Any Hasselblad is a great picture taking device. Just avoid the 500C as it is older and has no interchangeable focusing screens.

If you are on facebook, you might want to join the "Hasselblad classified" group, some good deals pop up from time to time (e.g. there's a like new black 501CM listed there at the moment, complete with lens and latest-style back). Also look at Apug classifieds, lots of good stuff there too. Take your time to analyze the market before buying.

To answer your question, the lens and film back are much more important than the body itself to image quality. This is where your money should go in my opinion. If you don't mind the extra weight go for an electrical body such as the 553 (which takes AA batteries), they are much cheaper than manual Hasselblad bodies.

Other brands (e.g. Bronica) have a lot to offer for a fraction of the price as mentioned above, but I am no specialist so I will let others comment on this topic.

Hope this helps,
ETN

Great tips. Thanks. Really set on getting the CF lenses, and lenses of high quality.

Alan9940 said:
I have used a 500C/M for 30 years with a variety of lenses and it's a great camera. However, unlike what a couple of others have said I do see a bit of clipping in the viewfinder with my 250CF lens. But, with a PM5 prism and acutte-matte screen it's not that noticeable. I believe starting with the 501 and later Hasselblad put in a "floating mirror" (or, whatever they called it) to avoid this issue. Personally, I wouldn't worry too much about it.

On the image quality side of the coin, I'll probably get slammed for this statement but IMO you won't realize much quality difference between the Hassy and your 5DSr. That said, what you will realize is a look from film that cannot be duplicated in the digital world. It's hard to explain, but once you've been around both outputs for long enough it will be clearly noticeable.

Bottom line... You really can't go wrong with any of the V system models as long as they're used and maintained; though I probably would avoid the 500C as others have said. Not that it's a bad camera, rather there are so many of the later models to choose from and at reasonable prices.

Good luck!

Alright, great. Thanks for the info. Might just go for a 500cm to start with, it seems like a good place to start. I don't wanna put too much money into it too soon. Interesting thougts about the image quality. That is one of the reasons I wanna start a bit slow, and test how the images compare. Especially when printed at around 50" on the long side. Will I see a great difference? Will film have a certain look to it? How will the transitions compare? How are the details? You know when you enlarge digital, especially in some photos, you kind of see that digital noise or digital sharpening. Not sure how to explain it, but I thought anyway it would be super interesting to test this and actually see with my own eyes, not just read and get opinions.

I have a friend living close by who's got a drum scanner. If it wasn't for him I probably would not dive into this as I would have to send the negatives to a different city, and the whole process would be so much more cumbersome.

Will avoid the 500c. Thanks!

Slixtiesix said:
Which kind of post-development procedure are you planning? Do you want to make darkroom prints or do plan to scan? If you are really looking for the ultimate resolution and quality, the price difference between a 500CM and 501CM is negligible compared to what the lenses will cost you. It may be 200-300 Euro. As Etn said, you can also get a 553ELX or 555ELD, if you do not mind the additional weight caused by the motor and batteries. The 555 also has the benefit that you can use a digital back pretty seamlessly. I use this camera myself with film. Both the 553 and 555 have the gliding mirror you are looking for and the latest screen technology. They both are way cheaper than a 503CW, although they offer all the features of the latter and then some. Mount a 180/4 or 250 SA and your needs will be fulfilled.

As I mentioned, I will have access to a drum scanner, which from what I've read will give me great quality. I am leaning towards just getting a 500cm and then get some high quality glass. I am thinking something fairly wide, something in between and a good telephoto. I have not yet looked too closely into the lenses yet, except for the different C/CF/(CFi?) models. Any tips on quality lenses is greatly appreciated. I will look into the 180 and 250 - thanks. In my current Canon setup I do use the 300mm 2.8 IS II quite a lot. It is so sharp and really have no flaws (except for the weight!). I am looking for something similar for the potential Hasselblad setup. What I also find myself using a lot is the Canon 85mm 1.2 II and something wide like a Zeiss 21mm 2.8 or Canon 16-35mm F4 IS.

Sirius Glass said:
Welcome to APUG
I have the 50mm, 80mm, 100mm, 150mm and 250mm CF lenses and the 500mm C lens. My 503 CX does not have the gliding mirror so I can see a little bit of cutoff in the viewfinder with the 250mm lens and the 500mm lens. The cutoff is so small that I do not notice it when I am using the lens and of course it does not show up on the negative.

I would stick to CF or later lenses since almost all those lenses use the B60 filters and one set of filters will work with almost all the CF and later lenses. Parts for the C lenses, springs in particular, are getting harder to find, so stick with the CF and later lenses.

Feel free to ask questions.

Thanks for the welcoming. How do you find the 250mm and the 500mm? Are they sharp from corner to corner at certain f-stops? As I wrote above, I do greatly appreciate tips and help as to what lenses to aim for (Wide, "portrait" and tele/super tele - 3 lens setup). Good info regarding the cutoff, so thanks to everyone for clearing that up.

Definitely going for CF or later lenses. And thanks again, I am sure there will be more questions.

Theo Sulphate · Sep 24, 2016

The CF 100/3.5 is, in my opinion as well as others, Hasselblad's best lens. Amazing quality edge to edge. You could use it as a slightly long normal lens (about 63mm equivalent on your Canon full frame body).

Alan9940 · Sep 24, 2016

Theo Sulphate said:
The CF 100/3.5 is, in my opinion as well as others, Hasselblad's best lens. Amazing quality edge to edge. You could use it as a slightly long normal lens (about 63mm equivalent on your Canon full frame body).

+ 1!! Definitely my best and most used lens of the 4 Zeiss CF lenses that I own.

dirkfletcher · Sep 24, 2016

The 350mm is kinda a sleeper in the line, many people seem to go for the extra push of the 500mm but the 350mm isn't that far off and an entire stop faster. I used it for years and miss it now that all my blad stuff is gone.

Dirk

Rich Ullsmith · Sep 24, 2016

Even if the stuff never ends up getting used much, it's money in the bank. Maybe more, maybe less, but always worth something. Downside isn't steep if you get quality used.

dirkfletcher · Sep 24, 2016

Hey again,
I checked out your pics, super cool stuff. If you weren't looking to shoot teles, the Mamiya 6 is a super cool camera (that I regret selling) that would fit into your lifestyle stuff quite nicely. I had the 75mm but almost never used it, the camera with the 50mm is such a perfect combo, a true joy to shoot with and amazingly sharp!

Dirk

etn · Sep 24, 2016

There are several different kinds of Hasselblad lenses for 500-series cameras:
- C (silver finish), single-coated, Compur shutter
- C (black finish), with T* multi-coating
- CF with Prontor shutter
- CFi, (the "futuristic looking ones"), with a few improvements over the CF
- CFE, same as CFi but with electrical contacts for 200-series bodies
- CB ("Budget" line), optically identical to CFi except the 80mm
- F for 200-series cameras
(I probably forget some)

C lenses are the cheapest on the second-hand market but it is said that spare parts for the shutter can be difficult/impossible to find.
CFi/CFE are very expensive and offer little advantages over CF. (The 50mm CFi is an exception)
CF lenses are the sweet spot, not too old and still affordable. In my opinion they also have the best looks
If you google a bit you will find details about the differences between all those lenses.

As Theo mentioned, the 100mm is often regarded as "the best" lens in the lineup, with 60mm and (in particular) 180mm close behind.
No lens is really to be avoided. They are all good. Choose yours according to your needs/wants.

One APUG member mentions in his signature that entering the Hasselblad world can be dangerous for one's financial well being.
That is true. But at the same time you will get invaluable photographic moments.

Be sure to also have a look at the Hasselblad Historical website.

Hope this helps
Etienne

Sirius Glass · Sep 24, 2016

Andreas Winter said:
...
Thanks for the welcoming. How do you find the 250mm and the 500mm? Are they sharp from corner to corner at certain f-stops? As I wrote above, I do greatly appreciate tips and help as to what lenses to aim for (Wide, "portrait" and tele/super tele - 3 lens setup). Good info regarding the cutoff, so thanks to everyone for clearing that up.

My least used lens is the 150mm mainly because I rarely do portraits.
The 250mm and 500mm are sharp corner to corner even with the Hasseblad 2XE.
The 500mm cannot be used hand held, it needs a tripod because of the swing weight.

mshchem · Sep 25, 2016

Right now I'm using Bronica SQ-AI cameras with motor grips fabulous set up. However I had a 501cm 2 lenses and the fabulous grip, I sold it I was young and foolish. Spend the money to get a really nice example, Bronica is the sensible thing to do. Who needs sensible.
Best Regards Mike

RalphLambrecht · Sep 26, 2016

Andreas Winter said:
Thanks for the fantastic respons, guys. Really helps me. The Bronica, Mamiya and Pentax suggestions are interesting, but there's something that draws me towards Hasselblad. I really like how the camera looks and feels. And that is a very interesting part, just how a camera, especially being analog, can affect you and how you think.

Great tips. Thanks. Really set on getting the CF lenses, and lenses of high quality.

Alright, great. Thanks for the info. Might just go for a 500cm to start with, it seems like a good place to start. I don't wanna put too much money into it too soon. Interesting thougts about the image quality. That is one of the reasons I wanna start a bit slow, and test how the images compare. Especially when printed at around 50" on the long side. Will I see a great difference? Will film have a certain look to it? How will the transitions compare? How are the details? You know when you enlarge digital, especially in some photos, you kind of see that digital noise or digital sharpening. Not sure how to explain it, but I thought anyway it would be super interesting to test this and actually see with my own eyes, not just read and get opinions.

I have a friend living close by who's got a drum scanner. If it wasn't for him I probably would not dive into this as I would have to send the negatives to a different city, and the whole process would be so much more cumbersome.

Will avoid the 500c. Thanks!

As I mentioned, I will have access to a drum scanner, which from what I've read will give me great quality. I am leaning towards just getting a 500cm and then get some high quality glass. I am thinking something fairly wide, something in between and a good telephoto. I have not yet looked too closely into the lenses yet, except for the different C/CF/(CFi?) models. Any tips on quality lenses is greatly appreciated. I will look into the 180 and 250 - thanks. In my current Canon setup I do use the 300mm 2.8 IS II quite a lot. It is so sharp and really have no flaws (except for the weight!). I am looking for something similar for the potential Hasselblad setup. What I also find myself using a lot is the Canon 85mm 1.2 II and something wide like a Zeiss 21mm 2.8 or Canon 16-35mm F4 IS.

Thanks for the welcoming. How do you find the 250mm and the 500mm? Are they sharp from corner to corner at certain f-stops? As I wrote above, I do greatly appreciate tips and help as to what lenses to aim for (Wide, "portrait" and tele/super tele - 3 lens setup). Good info regarding the cutoff, so thanks to everyone for clearing that up.

Definitely going for CF or later lenses. And thanks again, I am sure there will be more questions.

I started with a 501c with 50,80 and150mm CF lenses and later added 40,180 and 250CF; all are excellent and operate in the same way.never regretted buying any of them.

Andreas Winter · Sep 26, 2016

Theo Sulphate said:
The CF 100/3.5 is, in my opinion as well as others, Hasselblad's best lens. Amazing quality edge to edge. You could use it as a slightly long normal lens (about 63mm equivalent on your Canon full frame body).

Thanks for the tip. You're not the first I've heard recommend it, so I am sure it is quite nice. Def. on my list.

dirkfletcher said:
Hey again,
I checked out your pics, super cool stuff. If you weren't looking to shoot teles, the Mamiya 6 is a super cool camera (that I regret selling) that would fit into your lifestyle stuff quite nicely. I had the 75mm but almost never used it, the camera with the 50mm is such a perfect combo, a true joy to shoot with and amazingly sharp!

Dirk

Thanks very much, Dirk. Very nice to hear. I haven't thought about the Mamiya 6. Great suggestion. Would be something I could have in addition. Thanks!

etn said:
There are several different kinds of Hasselblad lenses for 500-series cameras:
- C (silver finish), single-coated, Compur shutter
- C (black finish), with T* multi-coating
- CF with Prontor shutter
- CFi, (the "futuristic looking ones"), with a few improvements over the CF
- CFE, same as CFi but with electrical contacts for 200-series bodies
- CB ("Budget" line), optically identical to CFi except the 80mm
- F for 200-series cameras
(I probably forget some)

C lenses are the cheapest on the second-hand market but it is said that spare parts for the shutter can be difficult/impossible to find.
CFi/CFE are very expensive and offer little advantages over CF. (The 50mm CFi is an exception)
CF lenses are the sweet spot, not too old and still affordable. In my opinion they also have the best looks
If you google a bit you will find details about the differences between all those lenses.

As Theo mentioned, the 100mm is often regarded as "the best" lens in the lineup, with 60mm and (in particular) 180mm close behind.
No lens is really to be avoided. They are all good. Choose yours according to your needs/wants.

One APUG member mentions in his signature that entering the Hasselblad world can be dangerous for one's financial well being.
That is true. But at the same time you will get invaluable photographic moments.

Be sure to also have a look at the Hasselblad Historical website.

Hope this helps
Etienne

Great help, Etienne. Clears things up. Thank you. Def. aiming for the CF lenses.

Sirius Glass said:
My least used lens is the 150mm mainly because I rarely do portraits.

The 250mm and 500mm are sharp corner to corner even with the Hasseblad 2XE.

The 500mm cannot be used hand held, it needs a tripod because of the swing weight.

Great info, thanks. Very helpful. Really looking for HQ glass that's sharp all across. The 250 might be a good fit for me.

mshchem said:
Right now I'm using Bronica SQ-AI cameras with motor grips fabulous set up. However I had a 501cm 2 lenses and the fabulous grip, I sold it I was young and foolish. Spend the money to get a really nice example, Bronica is the sensible thing to do. Who needs sensible.
Best Regards Mike

Advice taken, Mike! Thanks.

Great help again, guys. Will keep you posted, and will ask more Qs most likely.

Sirius Glass · Sep 26, 2016

Sirius Glass said:
Welcome to APUG
I have the 50mm, 80mm, 100mm, 150mm and 250mm CF lenses and the 500mm C lens. My 503 CX does not have the gliding mirror so I can see a little bit of cutoff in the viewfinder with the 250mm lens and the 500mm lens. The cutoff is so small that I do not notice it when I am using the lens and of course it does not show up on the negative.

I would stick to CF or later lenses since almost all those lenses use the B60 filters and one set of filters will work with almost all the CF and later lenses. Parts for the C lenses, springs in particular, are getting harder to find, so stick with the CF and later lenses.

Feel free to ask questions.

I like the focal length spacing of:

38mm [SWC], 50mm, 80mm, and 250mm CF lenses OR
38mm [SWC], 50mm, 100mm, and 250mm CF lenses

Yes, the 100mm lens is very sharp and one of my favorites but sometimes it is a little long and I need the 80mm lens. I recommend doing mother-in-law portraits with the 100mm lens and girl friend/wife portraits with the 80mm lens.

Theo Sulphate · Sep 26, 2016

Sirius Glass said:
... I recommend doing mother-in-law portraits with the 100mm lens and girl friend/wife portraits with the 80mm lens.

If you like your mother in law, use the 100; if not so much, use the 500/8 with an extender.

Considering adding MF film to my toolbox // Hasselblad 501cm/500cm

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