Buy a kit and start from there. Then you get the right chemistry to start with. After that you can experiment.
My recommendation is you get a firm grasp of what happens in color processing. There are many resources available online, and Haist's books on photographic processes have a great chapter about this topic. Unless you fully understand how C41 and E6 work, at least what each bath is supposed to do in these processes, you won't be able to fine tune the process to your needs, neither would you be able to address poor processing results.I do know that BLEACH is not Clorox... But that's about all I know.
If you look at color processes, you will see roughly three types of bleach:I also THINK there is a difference between bleach for E-6 and bleach for C-41 and the old guys never get confused even though they aren't labeled "E-6 Bleach" but to those of us newer to the game, it's really confusing.
They use different dyes and are not similarly sensitive to bleach compounds.Also, is the ECN-2 bleach different from the C-41 bleach even though they are both color negative film?
PE has commented on this topic many times over, see (there was a url link here which no longer exists).In addition, I know that a stabilizer is recommended for E-6 (which I didn't know previously and didn't SEEM to come in the kits) does it also need to be done in the C-41 and ECN-2 as an additional end bath?
There are no kits in the USA available that have bleach and fix that aren't 5 gallon batches for large processor labs... That's why I'm doing this...
EDIT: that also doesn't help me understand the difference between the different versions of bleach/fix since they don't list the chemicals inside just "this is the bleach bottle you use" but that doesn't give me knowledge...
~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
Fuji 5L kits can be had in the usa. Not cheap but available. I believe you've commented on a thread regarding them as well.
I have Bill,
But if you can point me to where they are available great because I disagree with you that they can be had in the US, they can be purchased online from Europe but not here in the states, Fuji no longer imports the chems...
~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
Fuji doesn't import them but they CAN be shipped to the states. I'd rather buy a large quantity of kodak stuff and split it with someone though. Much more economical.
I wish I were as rich as bill gates or someone and buy up every color film company then get rid of C-41 altogether and restart making Astia and E100G since everyone seems to like it, and set up shipping stations across the globe so everyone could get small batch chems of E-6 for home processing
*dreams* ~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
What are you smoking?
Process ECN-2 specifies 3 alternative bleaches, two ferric nitrate and one ferricyanide. Cine Ektachrome processes usually specify a persulfate bleach, which requires a special accelerator prebath. I understand the accelerator has some affect on color and stability, too, but I may be wrong. Print films may use ferricyanide, Ferric-PDTA, or persulfate bleaches alternatively. Most home kits seem to be Ferric-EDTA or Ferric-PDTA. Obviously, you have some flexibility, but there may be a difference in the requirements for positive vs. negative film. Fixers vary a bit, too. They seem to be tailored to the bleach used, adjusting the pH as appropriate. Depending on the process, the fixer pH may be anywhere from 5.0 to 6.5. They are all non-hardening. Those for Ektachrome contain EDTA.
In looking at Kodak publication H24, which only applies to cine products, it is evident that the processes are designed as a system, and that the parts interact. Negative camera films seem to be the most tolerant of variations in the bleach and fixer, but even with them there are limits.
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