Confusion between yashika44 and yashika44LM back window

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StoneNYC

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Hey, so this is my confusion...

enequ2ag.jpg


They are both 4x4 square cameras so why is my NEW yashika4LM's window on the center with the 645 framing numbers but the Regular yashika44 has the numbers in the right place giving me 12 frames. I've always follows the back window numbers without any issue, but now it looks like I'll have to figure out some crazy counting spacing scenario?

What knowledge am I missing?

Was hoping to shoot this today...


~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
 

MattKing

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Do these backs take 127 film, or 120?
 
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StoneNYC

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use4y9u7.jpg


Unloaded my current one to compare , internally the same frame wise too


~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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StoneNYC

StoneNYC

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Figured it out!

I found the instruction manual... You only use the center window for the first exposure, then reset and use an exposure counter window, the advance knob also locks at the next exposure so you can't go past the next frame by accident...

uby7ena6.jpg


Fancy... Now I just need a darn strap, sadly the camera strap connector is round not like every other strap with a normal flat loop... So...

2u9edeba.jpg


Anyone have this kind of connector strap? ^^^^^

Thanks :smile: and yay!!!! All set for my ULF 46mm re-spooling :smile:


~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Oren Grad

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Anyone have this kind of connector strap? ^^^^^

One of the OP/TECH connectors might work - look especially at the Super Pro A and B connectors. Failing that, a Gordy's strap with string connector is an alternative that is often workable with post mounts like that.
 
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StoneNYC

StoneNYC

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One of the OP/TECH connectors might work - look especially at the Super Pro A and B connectors. Failing that, a Gordy's strap with string connector is an alternative that is often workable with post mounts like that.

Oh! Ok thanks.


~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
 

benjiboy

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:smile: I'm not surprised your confused, I am too, next time buy a Yashica 44.
 

MattKing

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RTFMD?


~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

R stands for Read, and M stands for Manual.

I'll let you figure out the rest:whistling:
 
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StoneNYC

StoneNYC

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R stands for Read, and M stands for Manual.

I'll let you figure out the rest:whistling:

Haha ok "Red" stay away from me with that boot of yours.

This is a pop culture reference to "that 70's show"


~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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StoneNYC

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FUBAR I know lol.

Anyone know where I can get a lens hood? Lol


~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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StoneNYC

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One more issue, the images developed fine, but the bottom center of the images are all out of focus. I'll post examples tonight but I THINK it's just the curl of the old film? The center is on focus and top areas, but bottom middle is fuzzy, but just at the edges on the bottom L and R sides are sharp. Is there a way to adjust the pressure plate? I don't see that in the manual. Is it possibly a lens issue?

I know you need examples, just asking as I don't have a lot of film to experiment with...


~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
 

wblynch

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My Brownie 127 cameras use the center red window. I think if you look at the standard 127 backing paper the numbers should line up all the way down.

If you use 120 paper cut down and run back-to-front, the 6x4.5 numbers will line up with the side window but probably not the middle one. I never tried 120 paper in a Brownie, only in a Yashica44 (a).

Who knows why they had to make it so complicated.
 
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StoneNYC

StoneNYC

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My Brownie 127 cameras use the center red window. I think if you look at the standard 127 backing paper the numbers should line up all the way down.

If you use 120 paper cut down and run back-to-front, the 6x4.5 numbers will line up with the side window but probably not the middle one. I never tried 120 paper in a Brownie, only in a Yashica44 (a).

Who knows why they had to make it so complicated.

This issue has been solved thanks (read above).

We are now on the "how to fix my film plane: if that's the real problem?"


~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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StoneNYC

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OK without further ado...

VerichromePanat16-HC110at1to50-Rodianlat1andahalfML-3200-01.jpg
VerichromePanat16-HC110at1to50-Rodianlat1andahalfML-3200-08.jpg
VerichromePanat16-HC110at1to50-Rodianlat1andahalfML-3200-12.jpg

As you can see, only the bottom portion of the image is out of focus, but yet on the outer edges of the same area it's more in focus. I just want to clarify if you think this is DEFINITELY film plane error, or if it COULD be something wrong with the lens/lens plate.

The "old" NON-LM version had a problem where the "lensboard' plate that held the lens was bent out, and usually one corner of the image was out of focus, but if it was an infinity shot, I could press really hard against the plate and basically get it all in focus ok... so I was hoping this yashika44(LM) was in working condition. Now I've only run one roll of film through it, but it was a roll of VerichromePan that expired in 1966, it seemed fairly curly and seemed thick at the time, but now that I've processed it, the curl kind of lessened a lot, but I'm thinking the curl was too much for the pressure plate, but I only have one "good" roll of Efke100 that's new stock left, everything else is old, a few Kodacolor-X and one more VP127 from 1968. I bought into the Ilford ULF for 46mm film, so I'll re-roll that using the old backing paper, so I'd rather have this stuff work right now so I don't have to worry about the HP5+ re-rolled 127 to have any issues. So should I risk trying to adjust the plate or should I hope that the HP5+ won't have this issue?

The yashika44LM has a roller at the bottom that supposedly is there to guide the film and keep it from curling until after it's outside of the exposure area. Also, I feel stupid asking but, when light hits the film coming out of the lens, is it upside down? this would mean that the trouble area is the TOP of the film coming from the top spool, but that seems pretty flat, but what do I know...

END OF BABBLE, HELP!
 

MattKing

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Stone:

It is really hard to tell from your examples, because the lack of focus could be due to depth of field issues rather than film flatness issues. Do you have any examples where you have photographed something like a flat wall?

And you are correct - the image is upside down when it reaches the film.

Is there any chance that the back isn't sitting flat?
 
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StoneNYC

StoneNYC

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Stone:

It is really hard to tell from your examples, because the lack of focus could be due to depth of field issues rather than film flatness issues. Do you have any examples where you have photographed something like a flat wall?

And you are correct - the image is upside down when it reaches the film.

Is there any chance that the back isn't sitting flat?

Back is flat, and I don't have a flat wall, but it's not DOF because if you look at the edges, especially the first image, the edge of the image is clear within the same plane as the blurry center. That's why I suspect it's film curl and not the lens, but I'm no lens expert...

My other question would be, if it is film curl, is this just happening with old film and new film will lay flat? Or will it continue to be an issue with all film...

The back LOOKS like it has two screws, but I don't want to mess it up and scratch the film either with too much pressure...

Thanks Matt


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wblynch

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Just a suggestion...

Is there some kind of spring or rider that should keep tension on the film roll? It could be a case of the film unwinding a bit and allowing a bulge off the film plane. Maybe something is missing or out of shape? Some people put folded cardboard or a slice of foam in their Holgas to combat this.


Edit: the camera on the left above seems to have something and the camera on the right might be missing it.
 
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StoneNYC

StoneNYC

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Just a suggestion...

Is there some kind of spring or rider that should keep tension on the film roll? It could be a case of the film unwinding a bit and allowing a bulge off the film plane. Maybe something is missing or out of shape? Some people put folded cardboard or a slice of foam in their Holgas to combat this.

Will investigate thanks. The actually rolling and functioning of this camera seems way better than my other yashika, which seemed really loose but definitely the user with focus was the lens plate on that one, it was visually bent on the front, this one looks fine, but I'll look inside for possible loose film issues thanks!


~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk
 

E. von Hoegh

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Will investigate thanks. The actually rolling and functioning of this camera seems way better than my other yashika, which seemed really loose but definitely the user with focus was the lens plate on that one, it was visually bent on the front, this one looks fine, but I'll look inside for possible loose film issues thanks!


~Stone | Sent w/ iPhone using Tapatalk

Where did you tget that? I've never seen one... I had a Yashica 124G, and I recently acquired a Yashica TL Super, but can't find any info on "Yashika".:blink::wink::D
 
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