A few issues to keep in mind:
- Keep an eye on light bleed and things like indicator lights on a monitor. - Dragging your print over the power button while it is on probably won't do you much good.
- "Black" on a monitor isn't always actually without light, so be wary of fogging, or inconsistent exposure from inconsistent time on placement.
- Colours aren't reliably monochromatic, and how much of different colours gets blocked will depend on the panel. Your papers may react slightly differently than you expect.
- "Contact" with the pixels is going to depend on panel design and construction. Some designs end up with a fairly deep gap between the actual pixels and the front surface of the panel. - No idea how easy it will be to ind a panel with a happy medium of enough bleed to not show gaps between the pixel elements, but also not so much as to leave you with a fuzzy image.
- Controls seem to be one of the most awkward parts of this - All my monitors display what input they're reading from when I turn them on, so exposure controls might be a bit tricky to sort out a way to make them consistent and reliable.
I went back a few years in the hybrid workflow/digital negative threads and didn't see anything on those lines. A tablet is, of course, just a smaller version of my monitor for this purpose. Not sure how the second option could work meaning both transparency of the screen and the matter of low resolution once enlarged onto the paper.There are at least a couple of threads here where this idea has been explored, if I recall correctly. One was using a ipad like tablet for making a contact print and another using a iPhone as a negative in an enlarger. Might want to search those for background.
I went back a few years in the hybrid workflow/digital negative threads and didn't see anything on those lines. A tablet is, of course, just a smaller version of my monitor for this purpose. Not sure how the second option could work meaning both transparency of the screen and the matter of low resolution once enlarged onto the paper.
searched for "ipad negative" on the whole site:
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/ipad-enlarger.157201/
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/iphone-negative-in-the-enlarger-it-works.163296/
The resolution of my monitor maxes out at 1920 x 1080 pixels. The screen is about 12"x 21" in size.
A piece of photographic paper is capable of a lot more resolution than 1920 x 1080 individual pieces of detail.
However, if you are looking for low resolution, not very sharp results, it could be really fun.
Alternative printers like me could never do this because of the need of the UV light but for the regular silver gelatin, one could as well use a digital projector to do the "negative-less" printing that might be a better way than the contact on the monitor. No?
Not sure what kind of pixel density one is getting these days on a good projector though. May be not as good as a high-end monitor.
The "Cinevator" did this for motion pictures as early as 2008. I had restored sections of a color 35mm motion picture film printed at Technicolor LA in 2009 on one of these and it did a decent job. At the time, it was only HD, but now they make a 4K version.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cinevator
With 4K projected on a 10" long side, it would be 400 ppi which would be a pretty good number for printing a typical 8"x10" print. Compare that to an Apple iPad Pro with Retina display (2048 x 2732 pixels) that comes in at 265 ppi for a 10.3"x7.7" (by by calculation.)
Our math's are widely divergent. I just looked at I presume typical 4K monitors on eBay. A 27" diagonal wide screen should be 13.5" on short side. I ratio'ed that from my 21" WS. At, I presume typical 2160 pixels stated, that would be 160 pixels/inch.
There are things to consider that are way past my pay grade despite trying to get a handle on them for years. Old timer lith printers talk about lines per inch, ink jets talk about dpi, and monitors have a separate pixel for each of the three colors. So where does that leave this? I have no idea.
Then we have the fact that most films don't go past 125lpi contact printed, although a few like TMY can do 200lpi in best of lab circumstances. And then there are the lens.............
It looks like it will have to be an outright empirical experiment to determine how satisfactory my idea is.
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