Sorry! Mainly 35mm, but planning on going Medium Format (6x6 or 6x7) later this year. But Large Format and Print definitely not in the plans.You didn't mention your preferred film formats.
Sorry! Mainly 35mm, but planning on going Medium Format (6x6 or 6x7) later this year. But Large Format and Print definitely not in the plans.
Hi all!
My second post on this forum, although I have read many of its threads in the past.
About a year ago, I decided to go back to photography, after 10 years away from the hobby, and especially, film photography. It has been a great journey so far. I like it so much. I have gotten a Nikon Scanner, multiple software to do conversions, etc.
What I was missing was doing my own development, specially B&W, due to inferior quality in my local lab, long waiting time and higher price than Color. So I purchased the Jobo Large Development Kit, which I now realize was a bad decision.
I thought the Jobo 1540 would work as a smaller tank if needed, but it doesn't. So it needs way too much chemistry, and I will probably almost never do 4 rolls at the same time. So I need to purchase a smaller tank. The Manual Roller Base also isn't ideal, I much prefer something automatic, or if I am doing it manually, the inversion method instead.
So, where I am at is: Should I just get a smaller Jobo 1510, or 1520, to complement my 1540 tank? I am also considering a Jobo Silverbase, with the included adapted 1520, so I wouldnt need to purchase an additional tank.
I plan on doing C-41 as well, so the Jobo Silverbase maybe wouldn't be the best pick, since it is not made for water bath? But the market seem to really lack options, it's either the cheap rotary only, or 2000euros+ Jobo CPE2 and similar.
Would C-41 be feasable with water bath for the chemistry, and the Silverbase outside controlled environment? I dont really like the APO system that seem to automatically compensate temperature, I prefer doing my own thing and calculations.
Thank you all!
So, where I am at is: Should I just get a smaller Jobo 1510, or 1520, to complement my 1540 tank?
I plan on doing C-41 as well, so the Jobo Silverbase maybe wouldn't be the best pick, since it is not made for water bath?
I’d suggest a Paterson tank because the reel is adjustable to take any size film (including 127) and you can do multiple rolls. But I don’t think it’s designed to work laid out horizontally—I wonder if you’d get adequate coverage using it that way. On the plus side, using a Paterson tank vertically you’re looking at a development time of five to ten minutes, hardly a big chunk of time to devote to it. I routinely do C-41 in my Paterson too. Maybe you can sell the Jobo gear….
Rest assured I wont give up on the Jobo system just yet! There is a lot I like about it all, this is a minor set back, but based on the great help here so far, I am sure I will find a solution for this!Hi Alec, Sorry to hear about your disappointment with your first dip into Jobo, but it really is a great system. If it were me, I'd get a small Jobo tank for one roll of film. With the small tanks, inversion development is a reasonable option, but rotation development is the way to go for consstent development and reasonable amounts of chemistry used. Don't give up on Jobo quite yet.
Thats what i thought. But I dont understand how my 1540 would become a 1510, because both the top and the bottom part of the tank has their own red ring to force lock, if I remove the extension tube. So it doesnt seem like top and botton were made to be used with just each other, at least how it comes from factory, maybe I am missing something.Isn't a Jobo 1540 just a Jobo 1510 with an extension column between the cap and the bottom? So yo only need the 1510/1-reel center column. https://www.fotoimpex.com/brands/jobo-system-1510-center-core-art-nr-04043.html
I use the 1510 regularly and quite like it. It will only do a single 35mm film and no 120. If you want to do 120 as well in the future, you can always purchase the 1520 tank, which is like a longer version of the 1510.
You can do 'fly-by' temperature control. Start development at a slightly higher temperature so that you end up a little lower, and the average will still be on target. E.g. if you aim for 37.5C and you find that the temperature drops 2 degrees during the development time, start at 38.5C so that by the end it'll be 36.5C, and the average will still be 37.5C. This will give fine results and you can keep using the equipment you've already got. You can determine the temperature shift by doing a trial run with no film and just warm water and measure the temperature drop after having gone through the development step.
For bleach and fix, the temperature control isn't critical so you don't have to worry about this.
So all considered it looks like all you need to buy is a €15 bit of plastic and you're on your way.
Thanks! So a bit over the minimum 470ml required for rotary?Welcome to Photrio!
I use the 1540 tank for 35mm and 120. I have used it for almost twenty years without problems. I typically put 500ml in the tank. I use XTOL in the replenished mode. I add 70ml of stock solution to the replenished bottle before refilling with the developer from the tank. The excess is dumped.
To keep the developer from getting oxidized I use 1 liter StopLossBags™ and force all the air out. www.stoplossbags.com Also buy their funnel for trouble free filling the bag.
But I dont understand how my 1540 would become a 1510
Just to update everyone who helped me here. I already have the Jobo SilverBase. Jobo Support was amazing, we sorted everyting out and I am a happy man!
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