I have both the 45 CL4 and the 60 CT4 and that's right the 45 CL4 can use either a Ni-Cad battery pack or ordinary AA batteries the 60 CT4 uses expensive either Ni- Cad or Dry fit rechargeable battery packs not AA batteries. Rechargeable batteries need to be fully charged and fully discharged regularly if they are constantly topped up they loose capacity until eventually they will hardly accept a charge at all. I don't use flash all that often and find that ordinary AA cells are fine, because rechargeable s if they aren't used often loose their charge.The 45 series will allow you to use AA batteries as well as a Quantum (or similar battery). I believe the 60 works only with a separate battery pack. I'm not sure about AC adapters which might be most important if using on a stand. When buying used, make sure the head will stay in the desired bounce position - sometime the detents get worn.
All zoom head flash manufacturers overblow the 'power' simply by quoting what it does when zoomed to 105mm coverage angle! Deceptive BS
I've noticed that German flash guns manufacturers quoted guide numbers tend to be more accurate than others because they have to conform to D.I.N. standards.The Metz 45CT has a GN of 45 meters; the 54MZ has a GN of 54 meters. But the 54MZ (and 58AF1) have deceptive GN just like ever other zoom head flash unit!!! If you put the 54MZ at the same 35mm coverage angle as the 45CT, the 45CT still has a GN of 45 but the 54MZ has a LESS powerful GN!!!
All zoom head flash manufacturers overblow the 'power' simply by quoting what it does when zoomed to 105mm coverage angle! Deceptive BS
Rechargeable batteries need to be fully charged and fully discharged regularly if they are constantly topped up they loose capacity until eventually they will hardly accept a charge at all. I don't use flash all that often and find that ordinary AA cells are fine, because rechargeable s if they aren't used often loose their charge.
(I like to utilize the 1/4-20 receivers on the bottom of the power supply to maffer clamp the heavy batteries to the legs of a c-stand) they can be extremely versatile for location work.... If you plan to use them this way it's best to power with a 220 Ah 6 volt golfcart battery (thanks to Mike Wilde for this tip!) as the factory power supply is a measly 4.5 Ah.
I don't go quite the 220Ah, but it would work.
My CT2 pack is now modified to allow the internal battery to still be used ( mine is a $30 5Ah replacement UPS gel cell battery, that fits by shaving some spacers off of the bottom of the battery compertment, and folding its terminal tabs back to match the dryfit pad locations)
I have removed the second power cord socket (It went to rehab the power socket on the handle, that had become unreliable due to arcing), and filled the spare socket with a pair of recessed male quick disconnects that parrallel the internal battery.
There is an external 6V power cord that can be plugged into these male panel mount connectors. The female connectors are fully insulated and polarity marked. The other end has two sets of push on spade terminals that can link to external gels cells; I am presently using 2x 5Ah gell cells for shoots where the internal battery may start to recycle slow.
With external battery cords, and paralleling batteries in general, make sure that you observe polarity, and make the spade leads up of different lengths so that short circuits are a much less a likely accident. These batteries are powrerful and should be treated with some respect.
Moving the battery and the charging circuitry to the separate power pack results in a large but light flash head. The relatively heavy power pack hangs easily either on a shoulder, or from a light stand, where it adds stability.
Weight wise, and from my old Metz catalog, the 60CT4 without the battery pack weighs 22.9 ounces whereas the CL4 weighs 24 ounces without batteries.
1/256 (8 stops)There's no real number in the catalog about this, but from what I have read and if I remember right the 60CT4 can go to 1/128 or 1/256. I don't know about the CL4? Maybe someone can clue me in.
Just to toss something into the pot, I recently acquired a well-used 45 CT-1 and was surprised to discover in testing with a flash meter that it didn't seem to throw out any more light than my Canon 199a or Sunpak 422d. I'm not sure why that is (use of alkaline batteries?), or how likely it is, but it's something to look out for I suppose.
What method and conditions did you use to test it ? how far was it away from the flash meter ? was the 45CT1 on manual full power ? how did you calculate the guide number ?Just to toss something into the pot, I recently acquired a well-used 45 CT-1 and was surprised to discover in testing with a flash meter that it didn't seem to throw out any more light than my Canon 199a or Sunpak 422d. I'm not sure why that is (use of alkaline batteries?), or how likely it is, but it's something to look out for I suppose.
You can't test the guide number in the computer mode because in that mode it gives the correct exposure by altering the flash duration and the duration could be 1/60,000 sec and flash meters don't sync. at those speeds.If you test any flash unit against any other, with all of them in some sort of auto mode, it would be a sign of a bad flash if it didn't produce the same output as any other unit.
You can't test the guide number in the computer mode because in that mode it gives the correct exposure by altering the flash duration
and the duration could be 1/60,000 sec and flash meters don't sync. at those speeds.
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