Had loads of fun playing around with these two films. It comes with a warning, though... A dozen doughnuts were slaughtered in the making of this video. 

Orto here does not show the reds to be much darker in Thornton's 2 bath.
But this developer does reduce contrast and may be partly the cause of this possibly.
Thanks for this. I was struck most by how subtle the difference was. Some of the places where I could see a difference weren't reds but yellow-greens of foliage, and in the peppers photo, the ortho has the red pepper darker, as you'd expect, but to my eye the P30 has the yellow and green ones darker.
I haven't used either of these films (and I'm not that keen to start paying Ferrania's prices). I'm wondering how my CHS100ii would compare (not trying to set you extra homework here!) - that's described as orthopanchromatic, and I know I like what I've done with it, but I haven't done a side-by-side trial against either a pan or an ortho film. Not sure if I have any ortho right now - if I have it's old (but I can get Ilford Ortho over the counter in town, it seems).
I don't think I'd survive a dozen doughnuts though.
Pure ortho = blank negs on red
Part ortho = some black silver
More contrasty developer = blank negs on pure ortho, more black silver on part ortho ?
I don't recall this has been discussed before, so not sure.
It comes with a warning, though... A dozen doughnuts were slaughtered in the making of this video.
Humanely, I hope, Andy
On a more serious note and on my screen there seemed to be very little difference in how the reds were rendered but in the fruit bowl I thought that if anything the P30 rendered the reds even darker The reds looked every bit as dark if not darker than those I have seen in videos of Ilford Ortho 80
I had always thought that the best test for ortho was the rendition of the colour red so if Orto 50 is ortho then based on what I saw in the video I was puzzled at your conclusion that P30 is definitely Panchromatic i.e. renders identical or close to the reds of other panchro films My reds in both Ilford HP5+, the 100, 400 and 3200 Ilford Deltas and fróm what I can recall reds in Kodaks TMY 400 and P3200 plus reds in Fuji 400 and 1600 Neopan were all much lighter.
pentaxuser
Good God, I look more like my Grand Dad with each passing day!
I found it worth my while to re-look at the Gregg Davis video on P30. His findings do not seem dissimilar to what you are saying in #10 . However as far as its ortho quality is concerned he rates P30 as more ortho than Ilford or Rollei ortho films
I do not understand why Ferrania by now has not released any info on the spectral sensitivity of both films. That might go a long way to clearing up what each is in terms of their respective ortho qualities
For anyone interested in seeing Gregg's findings I attach the video: The relevant sections as I see it are 4:40 to 6:40 and 7:50 to 8:10
pentaxuser
Thanks for this test. it can be difficult on a Youtube video but the first thing is....it's clear that P30 and Orto 50 are not the same film. Orto is definitely orthochromatic whereas P30 has some more sensitivity to red.
Thanks for this test. it can be difficult on a Youtube video but the first thing is....it's clear that P30 and Orto 50 are not the same film. Orto is definitely orthochromatic whereas P30 has some more sensitivity to red. But I am OK with the notion that P30 orthopanchromatic film.
Regarding needing a tripod. If we take ISO 50, in good sunlight one can shoot at f16 at about 1/50 second (sunny 16 rule) which is certainly easy enough. In overcast conditions one ought to be able to use the same film at 5.6 or f4 which reduces the DoF but is still perfectly do-able. If you're able to hand-hold at 1/25s (I regularly do 1/15s handheld) 50ISO is fast enough for most situations.
Ferania just announced that Orto 50 is now in 120. Now you can test both of them in 120 format(Sorry for your wallet if you do lol)
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