Colour processing 2 films together - one film is good the other blank

LeeJayDee · Jul 2, 2017

Today I set out on a little project. 2 films in 2 cameras. One film was a cheap but fresh Kodak Gold 200 in a plastic fantastic kit camera I built myself. I wanted to test the camera to see if the thing actually worked. The other film was an expired Kodak Vericolor III 160 (1994 - stored in freezer/fridge) which was put into a tried and true Minolta x-700 set to 50 ISO.

I shot the same images with both cameras then processed them together in Rollei Digibase C-41 (kit) @ 25 degrees for 15 mins. The development times were as per instructions for the 11th/12th rolls through the chems. Bleach for 6 mins and Fix for 7 mins as per instructions. Wash 10 mins then stabilised with Rollei stabiliser for 3 mins. The expired film from the Minolta was at the bottom of the Patterson tank and the fresh film at the top.

I was surprised that the fresh Kodak film processed well, cause I didn't hold out much hope for getting anything much from my home built camera. A blank roll from the expired film was unexpected. I'm not experienced with processing expired film, so tips would be welcome. What went wrong?

bvy · Jul 2, 2017

Blank as in no edge markings (film manufacturer, frame numbers)? Probably not the processing if one roll is okay.

twelvetone12 · Jul 2, 2017

Why are you surprised that the fresh film processed well? I would have been surprised if the 23-year old film processed well! is it completely blank or does it have frame numbers?

LeeJayDee · Jul 2, 2017

No edge numbers. Sorry should have mentioned that.

LeeJayDee · Jul 2, 2017

I'm surprised not that the film processed, but that the camera actually worked!

chassis · Jul 2, 2017

If both films were processed simultaneously in the same tank, processing is not the problem.

Can you post photos of the blank film, showing the leader and edges/sprocket holes? Something isn't adding up here.

Rudeofus · Jul 2, 2017

If I look at this page, I find the statement

I rated it at ASA 20 with the intention of overexposing it by around three stops. It wasn’t enough.

The page also contains examples of even older emulsions which yielded no result at all, not even frame numbers, just as you observed.

LeeJayDee · Jul 2, 2017

Ah Ha! thanks Chassis - your suggestion of photos solved the mystery. After putting the film on a light box - I found images and edge markings. The images are so faint that simply holding the film up to the light didn't reveal them.

LeeJayDee · Jul 2, 2017

Rudeofus said:
If I look at this page, I find the statement

The page also contains examples of even older emulsions which yielded no result at all, not even frame numbers, just as you observed.

Excellent - thank you.

chassis · Jul 2, 2017

Glad you found the answer. A bit of base fog eh?

Photo Engineer · Jul 2, 2017

The "good" one looks kinda grubby too! Very off color for good color neg.

PE

LeeJayDee · Jul 2, 2017

Photo Engineer said:
The "good" one looks kinda grubby too! Very off color for good color neg.

PE

They sure are. The result of using a crappy plastic camera. The photos are as awful as expected, most have a red cast to them. They look better converted to b&w.

Photo Engineer · Jul 2, 2017

No, the base support looks off!

PE

jonathanchli · Jul 3, 2017

LeeJayDee said:
I shot the same images with both cameras then processed them together in Rollei Digibase C-41 (kit) @ 25 degrees for 15 mins. The development times were as per instructions for the 11th/12th rolls through the chems. Bleach for 6 mins and Fix for 7 mins as per instructions. Wash 10 mins then stabilised with Rollei stabiliser for 3 mins. The expired film from the Minolta was at the bottom of the Patterson tank and the fresh film at the top.

Is there a reason you did the development at 25C?

LeeJayDee · Jul 3, 2017

Hi Jonathanchli. I use the Digibase pre-mix kit. With this kit you can develop between tempatures 20 and 46 degrees. Separate development times are given for each temp setting. I chose 25 degrees because with my set up (fish tank heater in a plastic tub) it's the temp I can most easily maintain consistently. I did use 30 degrees a couple of times but had more trouble keeping the temp up with my little heater. The results were the same, so I just went back to 25 degrees.

Harry Stevens · Jul 3, 2017

Developed about 15 colour films over the last week and I managed to developer a 12 exposure and 24 35mm from about 20 years ago that I had never even used, got a fresh roll of Porta 120 400 drying that I shot yesterday,never used Porta before.

Photo Engineer · Jul 3, 2017

LeeJayDee said:
Hi Jonathanchli. I use the Digibase pre-mix kit. With this kit you can develop between tempatures 20 and 46 degrees. Separate development times are given for each temp setting. I chose 25 degrees because with my set up (fish tank heater in a plastic tub) it's the temp I can most easily maintain consistently. I did use 30 degrees a couple of times but had more trouble keeping the temp up with my little heater. The results were the same, so I just went back to 25 degrees.

It is not advisable to process C41 film at any temperature other than 100F(37.8C). This is due to diffusion. Otherwise, the layers can become imbalanced.

PE

Colour processing 2 films together - one film is good the other blank

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