Colour film run

[scratched&grainy]

Hi,
I'm doing an art project on kodak portra 160, 120 roll film. I need to get the developed images to 'run' a little bit, that is, to damage some of the colours/image, to partially spoil the negative. Any ideas how I could do this? I had a similar project a few years ago but failed. That time, I tried various thinners, petrol and various acids, but they generally destroyed the whole image completely or not at all. I suppose there is a protective layer also because after doing some damage to the neg, it had a sticky surface which was difficult to work with, so some kind of laquering is also needed?
Thanks,
Mark

 

[WilmarcoImaging]

There is always postprocessing (photoshop etc).

Physical/chemical means would probably need very fine control and dilute solvents. Try the usual suspects (alcohols, thinners, etc.) but use them diluted with water so the effects are controllable, and use fine painting brushes so the entire image isn't ruined quickly. Have a water spray bottle nearby to create effect or wash the solvent off. Sounds like art!

 

[Photo Engineer]

Did you try acetone or MEK (methy ethyl ketone)?

PE

 

[WilmarcoImaging]

PE,

Are there solvents that act differentially on the color layers, so the top, or top and middle, layers could be removed? Thereby leaving the middle and bottom, or bottom layer(s). Apologies for not remembering the order of the C, M and Y layers.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Actually, it is an enzyme, but it is very dangerous, as it dissolves human skin. We used it with great care and great restraint!

PE

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

You could try burning it.

I remember once screening an experimental film that used this technique in a class I was teaching. Because it was hard to get time on the 35mm projector, I hadn't seen the film myself before the class, and I remember when it seemed like this rare copy of the film was melting in the projector, and I ran up to the booth. The projectionist stopped the projector, so we could inspect the film, and we realized what was going on. The copy was fine, but the original had been burned as an experimental technique.

 

[AgX]

Actually, it is an enzyme, but it is very dangerous, as it dissolves human skin. We used it with great care and great restraint!

What are you referring too? Such would attack the gelatine as such, not the dyes. Or are you referring to stepwise attacking coating layers (a bit like the first Kodachrome diffusion controlled bleaching)?

 

[Photo Engineer]

It is (IIRC) Takamine, and it separates each layer if used properly. Thus you can remove the top, middle and bottom layers.

PE

 

[scratched&grainy]

Thanks, I'll try the bleach and burning.

 

[scratched&grainy]

MEK is butanone, innit? CH3 C(O) CH2 CH3
What is Takamine when it's at home?
M

 

[scratched&grainy]

Apparently the silver is dissolved in nitric acid when making film so that's the way to go, innit?
Acteone will just destroy the cellulose?
M

 

[Photo Engineer]

Well, takamine is an enzyme that dissolves protein. It must be rare as several google searches don't turn anything up, but we used it regularly. Since it dissolves protein, it can be dangerous and should be used with care.

Nitric acid can destroy both the silver and the gelatin so it must be carefully controlled.

PE

 

[scratched&grainy]

Hmmm...

 

[Svenedin]

Well if this takamine (do you mean takadiastase? an industrial carbohydrase and proteolytic enzyme preparation) is a proteolytic enzyme but is very difficult to get hold of then there may be alternatives. Bromelain (from Bromeliad, pineapples are bromeliad plants) is a proteolytic enzyme found in fresh pineapple for instance and there are others.

 

[Photo Engineer]

The goal in my suggestion is to unharden the gelatin and strip it away, one layer at a time. Thus you can mix and match images recorded in the film.

PE