Colortec C-41, starting out questions

For some insane reason I've decided to have a go at some C41 processing (as if there's not enough to learn about black and white!).

I was going to be using Tetenal Colortec C-41 Rapid - so, my first questions of what I'd sure will be many!...

I'll be using a Jobo 2500 tank in a CPE 2 processor for 4x5 sheet film and 120 roll film - If I load my tank with 6 sheets of 4x5 and use, say, 400ml of chems, will I be able to re-use the chemicals for a second or even third time if I use within a few days? If I do/can do this, will I need to increase times for on subsequent use?

Do all neg films need the same timings, i.e. does Portra 160VC need the same time as 160S?

thanks for any help

Dav

c-41 kit queries

the aerial oxidation will be detrimental to the re-use , but it may be partially compensated by a little bit longer development; be preaperd for colour shifts - so no, not really ideal.

I home brew c-41, and have good luck re-using it for periods of up to or more than 30 days between batches. I do use it in a full to the brim nikor type tank to minimize the chance of aerial oxidation. It does go to almost black, but it still develops film. I have not run control strips to see exactly what the effects are.

C-41 is a standard process. 3minutes, 15 seconds at 100F. All c-41 films, period.

I would use Kodak or Fuji chemicals only. I found Kodak C-41 chemicals cheaper than Tetenal. I got the impression that films developed with home brewed, and may also include Tetenal, will fade rather quickly.

Thanks for the info.

The problem is that the Kodak and Fuji developers are harder to get hold of in the UK, Silverprint sell some Kodak chemicals (flexicolor) but not as a kit (which is quite handy for a colour porcessing beginner) - so I haven't a clue what I'd need. The good thing with the Tetenal is that you definetly get all you need and the 3 bath set up doesn't seem too daunting - although I don't like the sound of fading negs!

One problem with third-party kits is that they generally use blixes rather than separate bleach and fix steps. I've tried both, and the blixes I've used (a mix-it-yourself formula and Paterson's blix) both produced noticeably grainier results than using Kodak bleach and fix. Some people have posted that they can't see the difference, but I don't know if that's because they're using a better blix than what I've used or because I'm more sensitive to this difference than they are. Of course, if you can't buy separate bleach and fix, then you'll just be stuck with the blix. You could try getting friendly with some local minilab operators and see if they'll sell you some of the stuff. The bleach and fix last a long time, so even if you've got to buy a ton of it at once, it should be fine.

One exception to the 3:15 time rule noted above (aside from extending it a bit when re-using developer, as already noted) is when push or pull processing. If you shoot at box speed, though, you could load up a tank with multiple rolls/sheets of multiple brands and speeds and process it all at once for 3:15.

Firstcall Photographic sells both RA-4 (dev & blix), and C-41 (dev, bleach, fix, stabalizer) 5lt kits from Fujihunt.

www.firstcall-photographic.co.uk