Color Processing C41 and Slides

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OK. I have all of my B&W gear for processing B&W film. What more would I really need to do color as well and how do you do it? What are the steps.

Come to me answers. OH YEAH!!!!! My wife will really hate me now.
 

fschifano

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For E-6 and C-41 you already have everything you need, except for the chemistry. The major differences between doing B&W and either of the color film processes are time, temperature, and number of steps. C-41 and E-6 chemistry kits are available in small quantities from Freestyle. Larger quantities of Kodak chemistry are available from B&H and Adorama.

Information for the E-6 process from Kodak is here: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/prof...y/filmE6main.jhtml?id=0.2.24.14.18.14.3&lc=en

and here: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/prof...t/e6Index.jhtml?id=0.2.24.14.18.14.3.28&lc=en

For C-41 go here: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/prof.../filmC41main.jhtml?id=0.2.24.14.18.14.5&lc=en

here: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/business/retailPhoto/techInfo/zManuals/z131.jhtml

here: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/business/retailPhoto/techInfo/zManuals/z100.jhtml

and here:http://www.kodak.com/global/en/business/retailPhoto/techInfo/zManuals/z101.jhtml

Color prints require the RA-4 process and materials. In addition to the paper and chemistry you'll need either a color head for your enlarger (if you don't already have one), or a set of color printing filters. These look like variable contrast filters and are made of the same stuff, but obviously don't meet the same light filtering parameters. You can read about the RA-4 process here: http://www.kodak.com/global/en/business/retailPhoto/techInfo/zManuals/z130.jhtml
 

nickandre

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You need to heat the chemistry in a water bath, so those stainless steel tempering thingies are good. Get an accurate thermometer you can use to control the temperature of water in a plastic tub. You want to run the process in this tub while controling the temperature as close as you can to 101.5 or so because you'll lose some heat in transfer and during agitation between the tank and the bath.

For chemistry you should start with a 1 liter kit or so (try the tetenal kit, you should use the final photo-flo from your b+w work afterwards because the stabilizer is formaldehyde based color coupler stabilizer to prevent fading) for doing negative C41 work. Afterwards go directly to the replenishment system by purchasing the developer/replenisher and the starter. Then use the color fix, the bleach, and stabilizer in the flexicolor system.

For slides you'll want the 5 liter kit from kodak, capable of processing outrageous amounts of film. Mix a liter and use it till you're done. You'll need a bunch of 1 liter bottles.

For Ra4 work get some paper, they don't make smaller than 8x10 anymore unless you buy 400 foot rolls of the stuff. Process at room temperature in trays in darkness or you can try the proper safelight. The color printing is a whole nuther can of worms, but either get a dichro head for your enlarger (if you own a beseler you're in luck; else a used dichro enlarger on ebay costs $80 shipped) or use filters (I wouldn't). Use the kodak developer and blix. Find a table that will help you get to your base values for your film. Start with filters at zero or something and then compensate until you reach "perfect" when viewed under the proper illumination. It's much like B+W but you don't have contrast control except with exposure in camera and film/paper choice. Like if too blue subtract yellow, if too green subtract magenta, if too red add magenta and yellow etc. (dont' hold me to that)

For printing slides there's a weird reversal process for the color negative paper which doesn't really work or ilfochrome, which costs $3 a sheet of paper for 8x10. Good luck.
 

uwphotoer

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For printing slides there's a weird reversal process for the color negative paper which doesn't really work or ilfochrome, which costs $3 a sheet of paper for 8x10. Good luck.

All cost aside the cibachrome/ilfochrome process is far easier to work with, it's a direct process, can be worked at room temperature, and you don't need to have open trays so you don't have to breath all that stuff.

Even easier I got an ilford CAP-40 table top processor off ePay really cheap and it makes the processing much more consistent. Which in turn makes the colors from print to print more consistent.
 
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