C-41 process develops color negative FILM
E-6 process develops color transparency FILM
RA-4 process develops color paper prints made from color negatives.
Alas, prints from color slides is not done in the traditional manner...Cibachrome print, or internegative copy printed to RA-4. Today, largely you have to digitally scan color slides and then get inkjet prints or prints on Crystal Archive.
I presume you understand the need for a color head or a set of color printing filters for proper color balance!
Generally RA-4 is quite similar to B&W, with the exception of the last step: 1. Developer 2. Stop Bath 3. Bleach-fix
Temperature control for Developer is essential +- 0.5 degree F !
Pretty straightforward...what don't you 'get' about the chemistry?
Temperature control for Developer is essential +- 0.5 degree F !
Get RA-RT developer replenisher (or equivalent), use no starter and process for 1' at 100F using a Jobo or 2' at 20C (70F) in a tray or Jobo. Use a prewet with the jobo.
A stop is not needed if you are good with tray processing, but is essential with a Jobo.
PE
It's really much more forgiving than that. You can process RA-4 across a range of temperatures (from room temperature up to around 98F) and you only have to vary the time. If you're off from your target a few degrees, you'll likely not even be able to tell. Experimentation and consistency are key.
It's really much more forgiving than that. You can process RA-4 across a range of temperatures (from room temperature up to around 98F) and you only have to vary the time. If you're off from your target a few degrees, you'll likely not even be able to tell. Experimentation and consistency are key.
With the RA-RT chemistry, I get almost the same balance at 20C and 40C.
PE
With the RA-RT chemistry, I get almost the same balance at 20C and 40C.
PE
Between you and me, 20C is 68F.Get RA-RT developer replenisher (or equivalent), use no starter and process for 1' at 100F using a Jobo or 2' at 20C (70F) in a tray or Jobo. Use a prewet with the jobo.
A stop is not needed if you are good with tray processing, but is essential with a Jobo.
PE
I was referring Kodak's own Color Darkroom Dataguide, from 30 years ago (publication date), and had not bothered with RA-4 chemistry since about 20 years ago when I was doing only Cibachrome/Ilfochrome printing. The RA-RT stuff sounds more forgiving than what I was using 30 years ago!
Between you and me, 20C is 68F.
Between you and me, 20C is 68F.
Kodak print viewing filters are pretty handy, if you don't have em already. On PE's suggestion I started with a filter pack of 45M 50Y which got me pretty close to start with. I'm used to Cibas telling you the pack to start with, but my Arista paper doesn't give that info. Not sure about other RA-4 papers.
I recommend Kodak RA4 chemicals. They are less expensive than RA4 chemicals sold at Freestyle and very good quality.
- Developer: Kodak Ektacolor RA Developer Replenisher RT to make 10 liters (Unique Photo #EKY8415580, $14.26). Starter not necessary.
- Blix: Kodak RA Bleach/Fix to make 10 liters (Unique Photo #EKY6601629, $14.75)
See Kodak's J39 publication on use in trays, drums, and rotary tubes.
Fuji Crystal Archive Type II paper does not provide starting filtration recommendations. Unfortunately, you need to find the filtration values for your enlarger, film, and paper; after that, you can print quickly and the results are excellent.
The majority of Freestyle employees aren't going to know anything about printing color negs. I don't recall seeing anything other than redi-made kits there either.
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