Color Printing Chemical Confusion

[Sirius Glass]

I am starting to print color. I went to B&H and got confused with the choices. I do not see a starter kit. Should I just go to FreeStyle where I can talk to people face to face? Advice please.

It was easier at Kodak where I could just put the paper in the K[?] machine.

 

[RattyMouse]

Yes.

 

[wiltw]

C-41 process develops color negative FILM
E-6 process develops color transparency FILM
RA-4 process develops color paper prints made from color negatives.

Alas, prints from color slides is not done in the traditional manner...Cibachrome print, or internegative copy printed to RA-4. Today, largely you have to digitally scan color slides and then get inkjet prints or prints on Crystal Archive.

 

[Sirius Glass]

C-41 process develops color negative FILM
E-6 process develops color transparency FILM
RA-4 process develops color paper prints made from color negatives.

Alas, prints from color slides is not done in the traditional manner...Cibachrome print, or internegative copy printed to RA-4. Today, largely you have to digitally scan color slides and then get inkjet prints or prints on Crystal Archive.

I want to make RA-4 prints. B&H has a long list products for this, but I cannot figure out which ones I need to start printing. The negatives are ready, the enlarger is ready, the Jobo processor is ready, and the Arkay drum dryer is ready, I ordered the paper. Now I need to order the chemicals.

 

[wiltw]

I presume you understand the need for a color head or a set of color printing filters for proper color balance!


Generally RA-4 is quite similar to B&W, with the exception of the last step: 1. Developer 2. Stop Bath 3. Bleach-fix
Temperature control for Developer is essential +- 0.5 degree F !

Pretty straightforward...what don't you 'get' about the chemistry?

 

[Photo Engineer]

Get RA-RT developer replenisher (or equivalent), use no starter and process for 1' at 100F using a Jobo or 2' at 20C (70F) in a tray or Jobo. Use a prewet with the jobo.

A stop is not needed if you are good with tray processing, but is essential with a Jobo.

PE

 

[Sirius Glass]

I presume you understand the need for a color head or a set of color printing filters for proper color balance!


Generally RA-4 is quite similar to B&W, with the exception of the last step: 1. Developer 2. Stop Bath 3. Bleach-fix
Temperature control for Developer is essential +- 0.5 degree F !

Pretty straightforward...what don't you 'get' about the chemistry?

I have a Super Chromega II complete.

 

[bvy]

Temperature control for Developer is essential +- 0.5 degree F !

It's really much more forgiving than that. You can process RA-4 across a range of temperatures (from room temperature up to around 98F) and you only have to vary the time. If you're off from your target a few degrees, you'll likely not even be able to tell. Experimentation and consistency are key.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Get RA-RT developer replenisher (or equivalent), use no starter and process for 1' at 100F using a Jobo or 2' at 20C (70F) in a tray or Jobo. Use a prewet with the jobo.

A stop is not needed if you are good with tray processing, but is essential with a Jobo.

PE

Thank you

 

[wiltw]

It's really much more forgiving than that. You can process RA-4 across a range of temperatures (from room temperature up to around 98F) and you only have to vary the time. If you're off from your target a few degrees, you'll likely not even be able to tell. Experimentation and consistency are key.

I was simply stating the official Kodak position on the control of temperature. Yes, other times are provided at other temperatures, which is why I did not state ANY single temperature. But one can drive themselves a bit batty trying keep color balance consistent if the temperature is not consistent. Color print processing is not complicated, but if you do not have good temperature control it can be somewhat frustrating for someone targeting a filter pack for a print.

 

[Sirius Glass]

It's really much more forgiving than that. You can process RA-4 across a range of temperatures (from room temperature up to around 98F) and you only have to vary the time. If you're off from your target a few degrees, you'll likely not even be able to tell. Experimentation and consistency are key.

I will set the Jobo temperature to proper temperature rather than fool around with lower temperatures.

 

[Photo Engineer]

With the RA-RT chemistry, I get almost the same balance at 20C and 40C.

PE

 

[Sirius Glass]

With the RA-RT chemistry, I get almost the same balance at 20C and 40C.

PE

And the CPP2 will keep it consistent.

 

[wiltw]

With the RA-RT chemistry, I get almost the same balance at 20C and 40C.

PE

I was referring Kodak's own Color Darkroom Dataguide, from 30 years ago (publication date), and had not bothered with RA-4 chemistry since about 20 years ago when I was doing only Cibachrome/Ilfochrome printing. The RA-RT stuff sounds more forgiving than what I was using 30 years ago!

 

[CatLABS]

Get RA-RT developer replenisher (or equivalent), use no starter and process for 1' at 100F using a Jobo or 2' at 20C (70F) in a tray or Jobo. Use a prewet with the jobo.

A stop is not needed if you are good with tray processing, but is essential with a Jobo.

PE

Between you and me, 20C is 68F.

 

[Wayne]

Kodak print viewing filters are pretty handy, if you don't have em already. On PE's suggestion I started with a filter pack of 45M 50Y which got me pretty close to start with. I'm used to Cibas telling you the pack to start with, but my Arista paper doesn't give that info. Not sure about other RA-4 papers.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I was referring Kodak's own Color Darkroom Dataguide, from 30 years ago (publication date), and had not bothered with RA-4 chemistry since about 20 years ago when I was doing only Cibachrome/Ilfochrome printing. The RA-RT stuff sounds more forgiving than what I was using 30 years ago!

I have the Kodak Color Darkroom Dataguide.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Between you and me, 20C is 68F.

Since I have a CPP2 I will do the print development at 100 degrees F.

 

[Photo Engineer]

Between you and me, 20C is 68F.

Yes, I know that and 40C is not 100F, but close enough. As long as you repeat it exactly each time whatever scale you use.

And I use the Jobo for 100F because it keeps things hot and I use 68F for tray processing because that is the lab temp here at home.

PE

 

[Sirius Glass]

Kodak print viewing filters are pretty handy, if you don't have em already. On PE's suggestion I started with a filter pack of 45M 50Y which got me pretty close to start with. I'm used to Cibas telling you the pack to start with, but my Arista paper doesn't give that info. Not sure about other RA-4 papers.

When I worked at Kodak I used Kodak paper [go figure] which had the recommended filter setting on each box of paper. Since Arista paper does not, I will keep this in mind. Does the Fuji paper have starting recommendations?

 

[mklw1954]

I recommend Kodak RA4 chemicals. They are less expensive than RA4 chemicals sold at Freestyle and very good quality.

- Developer: Kodak Ektacolor RA Developer Replenisher RT to make 10 liters (Unique Photo #EKY8415580, $14.26). Starter not necessary.
- Blix: Kodak RA Bleach/Fix to make 10 liters (Unique Photo #EKY6601629, $14.75)

See Kodak's J39 publication on use in trays, drums, and rotary tubes.

Fuji Crystal Archive Type II paper does not provide starting filtration recommendations. Unfortunately, you need to find the filtration values for your enlarger, film, and paper; after that, you can print quickly and the results are excellent.

 

[wildbill]

The majority of Freestyle employees aren't going to know anything about printing color negs. I don't recall seeing anything other than redi-made kits there either.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I recommend Kodak RA4 chemicals. They are less expensive than RA4 chemicals sold at Freestyle and very good quality.

- Developer: Kodak Ektacolor RA Developer Replenisher RT to make 10 liters (Unique Photo #EKY8415580, $14.26). Starter not necessary.
- Blix: Kodak RA Bleach/Fix to make 10 liters (Unique Photo #EKY6601629, $14.75)

See Kodak's J39 publication on use in trays, drums, and rotary tubes.

Fuji Crystal Archive Type II paper does not provide starting filtration recommendations. Unfortunately, you need to find the filtration values for your enlarger, film, and paper; after that, you can print quickly and the results are excellent.

Thank you I download J39.

 

[StoneNYC]

The majority of Freestyle employees aren't going to know anything about printing color negs. I don't recall seeing anything other than redi-made kits there either.

Considering there's only two kinds of color paper still made, Kodak and Fuji AFAIK, isn't it probably a safe bet that Kodak is the paper that freestyle is cutting down from rolls and so wouldn't you just use the same kodak starting numbers?

i'm not a color printing person, but I'm just working off of logic and my available knowledge which says to me that there are only two RA-4 colored paper producers still making paper. Am I wrong?

 

[MattKing]

Mitsubishi may still be making their paper: http://www.mitsubishiimaging.com/color-paper.html