Color Printing at Home

wogster

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Those Crystals are still hazardous waste, some chemicals that are not terribly dangerous as liquids can be extremely toxic as a dry powder that can become air borne and inhaled. A plastic rain barrel may not be made of a plastic that can handle chemicals. One really needs a chemical proof plastic container. Check with chemical supply companies, they may have containers that were used to ship chemicals to them that
hold larger volumes of liquids. An open container should have a cover, best would be a lid made of chicken wire over a layer of window screening, to keep kids and animals out of the container. Last thing you need is to find the bones of the neighbours kid or the dog in the bottom of your chemical storage tank.....

Now, most photographic chemicals should play nice together, and are not that dangerous, although concentrate bottles that have a little bit in them, should be filled with water before being added to a tank. I would keep any tank down to about 25L so that it's light enough to transport. If you really want the powder idea, then you should have a tank, with a valve that allows small amounts to drain into a large pan, say a drop a second, so that there isn't a lot of liquid to evaporate at any one time. The pan should be lined with a chemical proof plastic bag, that is large enough that once in a while you can tie the top, and take it to the hazardous waste depot.
 

rossawilson1

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"Last thing you need is to find the bones of the neighbors kid or the dog in the bottom of your chemical storage tank..... "

Now that would be bothersome!
 

wogster

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"Last thing you need is to find the bones of the neighbors kid or the dog in the bottom of your chemical storage tank..... "

Now that would be bothersome!

Yes, especially when local constabulary shows up to cart you off to the gaol while the
the crown prosecutor decides whether they want to assign blame.
 

E76

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I have been using Kodak's RA-4 chemicals in trays at room temperature without any problems, and the prints look great; simply extend the development and bleach times to two minutes. Definitely a much cheaper way to go than the room temperature kits, and the chemicals seem to last a lot longer in an open tray than the 4 hours and 15 8x10's Kodak states.
 

Bob-D659

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Yes, that is the stuff. I just use dilute white vinegar, as I don't know if the indicator in Kodak's product is compatible with the process. Just be very consistent in agitation and temp control.
 

ricksplace

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There are other threads on this. I use Kodak indicator stop bath after the developer, and then a water rinse before the bleach/fix. I use separate mixes of stop bath for colour and b&w, just in case some of the carry-over of colour developer might react with b&w papers.
 
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