I went ahead and bought an older 420 polaroid pack film camera...to use with the current fuji color pack film...my question here is that I never used pack film so any/all advise/comments to using these materials would be greatly appreciated...
thanks in advance, Peter
The only issue you may have is trying to shoot and produce a print when it is cold, and you are outside in the cold. The developing slows waaay down, and if too cold, it just won't work. You have to keep the film and the film/print sandwich you pull after exposure warmish. Normal inside temperatures are what this product is designed for.
I can remeber from my youth days a photo guy who shot polaroid, pulled the picture though the rollers, then promptly openned his jacket and stuck the print under his arm pit for two minutes, before fishing it out and peeling it apart.
I can remeber from my youth days a photo guy who shot polaroid, pulled the picture though the rollers, then promptly openned his jacket and stuck the print under his arm pit for two minutes, before fishing it out and peeling it apart.
Where did you see me? I still do that. Only way to get good results outside in cold weather. Arm pit provides optimum temperature.
With the first pack cameras way back in the late 1960's a little aluminum sandwich plate was provided which you could pre-warm in your armpit, then place the film inside after pulling and return to armpit for length of development cycle.
I live in Florida guys!! no cold issues here....just a reminder that I actually asked a question but I guess I'll figure it out when I have the materials in hand
thanks anyway...
Best, Peter
Don't yank too fast. I heard you should say 'po-la-roid' in your head as you pull, and that's how long it should take. That jelly on the negative when you peel it apart is probably not a good thing to touch. Take a little trash bag with you if you go out with it -- those packs make a lot of garbage.
It's a fun format and you'll get the hang of it in a few minutes. I've never had any trouble with the Fuji films. I always guess the exposure with Sunny 16, and it's not terribly picky. Also very easy to experiment with mixing exposure and development times (underexpose and overdevelop, or vise versa).
The 100B is nice black and white, smooth in the mid-tones and relatively cheap when compared to the 4x5. I shoot it at rated speed and always wish I could get a negative from it, but no luck. The 100C is fine, but I just think of it as a large snapshot - good, but not all that special. Haven't tried the 3000B.
I find that I like to use the 405 back and pack film with those old brass lenses that don't quite cover 4x5.
The colors on the 100C are quite nice. I prefer it slightly overexposed or else it gets muddy. The cameras included a "cold clip" which was two flaps of metal taped together which were to be stuck in the jacket pocket to achieve room temperature development, about 90 seconds with the Fuji color stuff.
Don't forget to check the battery in your camera. They are an odd size and a little hard to find. Those old cameras also often have corroded terminals. The camera does not work without a battery.
I find that the photo cells seem to have faded a little over time. I usually have to crank the "lighter/darker" adjustment on the front of the camera all the way to "light".
I use the 3000b all the time, since it works in almost any light.
I can remeber from my youth days a photo guy who shot polaroid, pulled the picture though the rollers, then promptly openned his jacket and stuck the print under his arm pit for two minutes, before fishing it out and peeling it apart.
*****
Yup. That's the way I do it. Regarding the battery, most of them are 3 volt; some were 4.5. For the three volt, I just used a standard 3v lithium battery of the type used in many p/s cameras, with the battery clips held in place with duct tape. Same battery has worked for several years.