Color MF sheet film vrs 120 roll film

[peter k.]

For the same brand and film type, in E-6 or C-41 for Color MF sheet film vrs 120 roll film, .. is there any difference except in the thickness and stiffness of what the emulsion is put on? In other words do they use the the same coating for either type?

 

[Donald Qualls]

This varies between manufacturers and even between film stocks at the same manufacturer. I've seen Kodak data sheets that give different times (in nitrogen-burst deep tanks for both) for 35/120 vs. sheet film of the same designation. I've seen many more from various manufacturers that recommend the same development regardless of base.

 

[MattKing]

The coatings need to be adapted to the substrate and to the means in which halation is dealt with.
Are you asking a theoretical question about differences between how the emulsions are designed, or a practical question about differences in how you should use the films?

 

[peter k.]

Are you asking a theoretical question about differences between how the emulsions are designed, or a practical question about differences in how you should use the films?

Neither actually, just curious.
Love shooting sheet film and quickly develop it, rather than have to shoot a whole roll of 35mm or 120.
With 35mm we shoot about a third of a roll of 36, and in a dark bag, cut and attach the leader back on, close the camera and develop what we had shot, But don't shoot much 35mm anymore as we like the larger format size of MF. Tried to do that with 120, but it was a PIA, So gonna have to bite the bullet and purchase some color sheet film, and just got curious how different it might be from the same film in 120.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Did MF color sheet film ever even exist? If so, why? But speaking hypothetically, irrespectively of availability issues, the devil would have in the details. A really good roll film back in conjunction with a truly stiff view camera rear standard can hold roll film in tight tension and thus quite flat. On the other hand, a typical sheet film holder does not. If the sheet film is thick and stiff enough, and not itself merely thin acetate cut from roll film stock, then the amount of sag or bow in a sheet size this small is relatively insignificant. But it will still be there to some extent. In the darkroom, sheet film is much nicer to enlarge with than roll film, but certainly not as convenient as full 4x5 or larger. Cost-wise, you'll soon discover that color large form plus development expense is itself getting to be a real PITA, and might cause you to think twice.

 

[peter k.]

Cost-wise, you'll soon discover that color large form plus development expense is itself getting to be a real PITA, and might cause you to think twice.

Yes, absolutely, using the example of E-6 Provia 100, ... sheet film expense per shot is about 2.5 times more expensive than roll film.
Also there is the time and the many extra steps to develop color film, it can be very time consuming, and just to do it for a few sheets of film, could become questionable. But stilllllllll.... dang ,,, wana, shoot only a few shots and develop it.

But as you mentioned, the thin acetate of roll film stock will not work in film holder, or my Graftmatic back, as its to curly and would be very difficult to cut accurately. Plus the fact of how to develop it. Taco method wouldn't work.
So that still leaves us with the challenge, of shooting and developing only a portion of a roll of 120 film!

It's not as easy to cut and reuse whats left, for unlike 35mm, it does not have its own light tight container. One could just off the rest of the roll, and it still would be cheaper than sheet film in comparison, but just can't go there.
Sooo, Sigh, ..this afternoon thought of another concept of how to reattach whats left of a 120 roll, and may give it another try tomorrow.
.. CRAZY !!! ...

 

[Donald Qualls]

this afternoon thought of another concept of how to reattach whats left of a 120 roll, and may give it another try tomorrow.

Masking tape. The cheap stuff that does NOT come off cleanly like Blue Painter's Tape.

Two approaches here: attach the leftover film at the original film start point, and make a BIG, HIGHLY VISIBLE note to yourself that it's a short roll and and estimate of how many frame remain, or attach it where you cut it, and use the BIG, HIGHLY VISIBLE note to tell yourself what frame to start on. Of course, there is the significant question of how to know where to cut, but if you unload the camera in the darkroom, you can get reasonably close in that (and the remainder of the roll will keep the rest of the film where it should be for retaping).

 

[peter k.]

Ha, before breakfast and there we were giving it a try.
Crazy!
Took the rear end of the roll, cause it was a straight cut by the manufacture, and pushed it against the cut tape edge of the original start edge as you described. With what was left of the roll. made correctly straight in line with the backing paper taped it with black electrical tape, then rolled it back up, in dim light. As most likely roll is not a tight as originally rolled and could have some edge fog if were not careful.
Should have about four shots left, so will go give it a try.
Crazy creative fun! ..