Color E6 processing question

[rayonline_nz]

Hi all, I just did my 2 runs of b/w film and they came out great, have been reading about color E6 processing, and where I am it's expensive at $17US a pop unmounted, b/c that is another $9US. I have been sending imported film back to Dywannes for development.

I have read about the Arista Rapid kit - have to find a way to get them here b/c they only ship ground to the continental USA. Anyone else got them by chance?

Ok - I know the temps are crucial. Is this just the first developer or both? Also when the first developer is complete and poured out how immediate does the rinse have to take place and then the 2nd color developer? The water would put a casual halt to it right? Also does anyone know how long the working solution would last for and what about the undiluted original stuff?


Cheers.

 

[Mike051]

You can buy Tetenal E6 kit if Arista ships only ground. They are pretty much the same. Maintaining 38°C (100°F) is of great importance, but
I find agitation every 15 seconds to be much harder to maintain while keeping track of temperature of chemicals next in line. You got to keep
temperature at 38°C for the 1st developer, colour developer and blix. Stabilizer can be used at room temperature.

 

[Rudeofus]

1. Temperatures are supposedly critical, especially for first developer and color developer. BLIX is less critical (the hotter it is the faster it acts, but don't go much beyond 40°C or you risk ruining your film), and STAB will work at room temperature whatever that is at the moment.
2. The rinse should be done quickly after pouring out developer or you risk getting uneven development. But that's not different from b&w processing. Wash well and with 38.0°C water before you pour in the color developer.
3. The water would stop first developer, but you need to change it a few times at first to really stop first developer. In theory you could use a stop bath but you won't need it.
4. The data sheet for your E6 kit will give you exact numbers, but as an example I can give you Tetenal's numbers, which specify about 2 weeks of working solution life. If you use protectve gas on opened and partially emptied containers, your concentrates will live for more than a year.

You will notice that these color home processing kits are pretty easy to use and tolerant to slight processing errors.

 

[TheToadMen]

Hi,
I was checking out C-41 and E-6 processing also. See: (there was a url link here which no longer exists)
One thing I learned is that BLIX is bleach and fix in one.
Many kits use blix, but as many people have pointed out to me, you're better using separate bleach/fix solutions.

 

[Rudeofus]

Many kits use blix, but as many people have pointed out to me, you're better using separate bleach/fix solutions.

Knowing that separate bleach&fix would be better won't help you much unless you can actually get such a kit. Please do not attempt to split BLIX into bleach and fix by mixing one bath from BX1 and the other one from BX2, it will not work this way. I have processed hundreds of rolls of film with BLIX kits and never had any visible issues as long as I followed the procedure given in the booklet.

 

[TheToadMen]

Knowing that separate bleach&fix would be better won't help you much unless you can actually get such a kit. Please do not attempt to split BLIX into bleach and fix by mixing one bath from BX1 and the other one from BX2, it will not work this way. I have processed hundreds of rolls of film with BLIX kits and never had any visible issues as long as I followed the procedure given in the booklet.

Easy available in Europe:

Fuji Hunt Chrome 6X E6 Processing Kit, 5 litres: http://www.macodirect.de/fuji-hunt-chrome-processing-litres-p-2509.html

TETENAL Colortec© E-6 3-BadKit, 1 or 5 Litres: http://www.macodirect.de/tetenal-colortec-badbrkit-liter-p-1544.html

 

[rayonline_nz]

I have been watching a APUG member provide youtube video. So a photoflo isn't required? Also, the 2nd color developer he went for 5mins instead is the 2nd chemical not fussy with the timing? And the blix doesn't matter if it goes longer ight? I would probably go for simpler rapid kits .... 1L should be ample I can always try it out with less important film first .... with my b/w I got all my 3 chems spot on b/c I was obsessed with it, cooling and stirring the other chemical when the tank was sitting between its every minute inversions, adding cold water or hot water to the bath.....

 

[clayne]

You basically need to keep the FD and CD at 38C. The rest can be whatever but its easiest to keep the blix alongside the other 2 in a water bath. It's just 6 mins a step and 2-3 mins wash (around 38C) in between. The 2-3 mins wash is just used to not cross contaminate the chemicals and steps but it provides plenty of time to get ready for the next chemical as the interstep wash is not time critical.

I recommend the 1L Tetenal kit for starters. Don't worry about BLIX vs separate bleach fix right now.

 

[rayonline_nz]

Thanks for that link Tetanal kit Bit of a shame that it cost 2x than the Arista kit if that wasn't an oversight by myself. No where they could send me Arista?

 

[clayne]

My guess is it has something to do with an ORMD substance that cannot be shipped by air without a HAZMAT form. However the 5L tetenal kit is definitely the best value as it does 5 times the amount of the 1 liter kit but costs just a little under double the 1L. The 1L kit you make all at once. The 5L you decant the amounts needed for a 1L kit. You only need to find a place to keep the left over concentrates (mix up 1L equiv for batches) such that they don't pull in air. They'll last atleast a year this way (whereas the working baths are probably a month or so max).

 

[Rudeofus]

So a photoflo isn't required?

If you get a kit with a STAB bath or final rinse, then some equivalent of Photoflo is in that bath. Do not rinse your film after STAB!

Also, the 2nd color developer he went for 5mins instead is the 2nd chemical not fussy with the timing?

The color developer (which you incorrectly call the second color developer) step is a step which runs to completion. This means you can do this step much longer if you want, and chances are that 5 minutes instead of 6 minutes also works. My personal recommendation would be to follow the manual that comes with the kit to the letter until you are very comfortable with color film development.

 

[rayonline_nz]

Well this is a goner. I emailed the guys suggested in Europe, they can send to me but the post alone is 40 Euro. Might be back to sending films to the USA for development.

 

[clayne]

Well this is a goner. I emailed the guys suggested in Europe, they can send to me but the post alone is 40 Euro. Might be back to sending films to the USA for development.

40 euro shipping is still cheaper when you factor in that a 5L kit is 60 rolls. Do the math and you'll see that in the end you're better off DIY.

 

[rayonline_nz]

I just won't shoot that much, I am quite project oriented always on tripod.etc and at home we don't have any big skyscrapers, lakes or bridges so unless I travel. when I sent to USA 10 rolls took 18 months, so far I have 2 rolls of slides from my 10 day Japan trip 3 months ago, I did shoot b/w so my usual rate is 3 rolls for a 10 day trip. which why I may switch to medium format in due time. exposed film just sits in my chest freezer in my garage.

 

[TheToadMen]

40 euro shipping is still cheaper when you factor in that a 5L kit is 60 rolls. Do the math and you'll see that in the end you're better off DIY.

... and - more important - you'll have more fun ;-)

But yes: shipping costs is always a bummer.
I don't know if you need any film or something as well, but for instance the Fuji slide films seems to be half of the price compared to Australia (as told in some other threads).
Like Fuji Provia 400 roll film (120) = 5 rolls for Euro 33 including 19% VAT. Fuji Provia 100 F roll film = 5 rolls for Euro 28.40 including VAT. They also have 135 film.
And I think - since you're outside the EU - you don't have to pay the 19% VAT, if you ask for it. Might even compensate your import duties a bit ...
So that might make it more interesting??

 

[Nuff]

... and - more important - you'll have more fun ;-)

But yes: shipping costs is always a bummer.
I don't know if you need any film or something as well, but for instance the Fuji slide films seems to be half of the price compared to Australia (as told in some other threads).
Like Fuji Provia 400 roll film (120) = 5 rolls for Euro 33 including 19% VAT. Fuji Provia 100 F roll film = 5 rolls for Euro 28.40 including VAT. They also have 135 film.
And I think - since you're outside the EU - you don't have to pay the 19% VAT, if you ask for it. Might even compensate your import duties a bit ...
So that might make it more interesting??

With macodirect once you create your account and specify that you are outside of EU, it will subtract VAT. Also the shipping is up to certain weight, I ordered my Rollei C41 kit from them and I packed it with lots of rolls of film. Once I saw the shipping charges go up, I subtracted a roll.

They also stock some great B&W film. Like the Rollei Retro 400s and 80s, cheap fomapan. I got a mix of B&W, C41 and E6 film from them.

 

[rayonline_nz]

The 5L is just not worth it because I would pour out 80% of it. Per year I probably shoot 5-7 rolls. I only use slide film when I go on a trip.
60 rolls would take me over 6yrs to consume. With b/w film I am struggling to shoot 6 rolls per 6 months so I don't waste my 1L of ID11 Have shot 2 rolls from Japan developed those, I have 4 rolls in the freezer but haven't shot it yet. I don't photograph day to day stuff, I'm more into scenic. But then again most of the people here prefer color anyway when we have a get together.


The 1L kit with the 40 Euro post is about the same as 10 rolls of film sent to the USA and back incl the development cost. VAT adjusted, I may save $10US.

But again chems expiry. So this is going to have to be a regular thing, every 12 or 18 months thing when I collect my film up so every time I would have to get other stuff to justify more of the post cost..... I usually shoot Velvia 50 just their 135 format, it goes for equiv of $15US that's more than the pricetag $12US going in the USA.

Edit - we don't have import tax unless we purchase $300US and up or abouts. If we did would make it even less attractive the 15% wacked on top which includes the freight cost ie - 15% x (merchandise + delivery cost). No duties however for photographic equipment.

 

[clayne]

ray: I think you need to start shooting more 120 format slide film around the beautiful areas you have. Heck, I could burn a few rolls just in one day without even leaving Island Bay or Lyall Bay . South Island it'd be probably be 20-30 rolls over some amount of days no problem. I'm a fairly judicious shooter as well, perhaps you just need to get out and shoot more? Alternatively maybe it's because you've already seen and shot it all - hence lack of interesting subjects. Do you photograph people?

 

[rayonline_nz]

ray: I think you need to start shooting more 120 format slide film around the beautiful areas you have. Heck, I could burn a few rolls just in one day without even leaving Island Bay or Lyall Bay . South Island it'd be probably be 20-30 rolls over some amount of days no problem. I'm a fairly judicious shooter as well, perhaps you just need to get out and shoot more? Alternatively maybe it's because you've already seen and shot it all - hence lack of interesting subjects. Do you photograph people?

Nope, don't do much people. Ever I started reading into photography I enjoyed the likes of Galen Rowell etc. So unless I travel to the National Parks ie - the South Island. I have a few pro packs of 120 format but no camera yet still on 35mm.

I have been to Lyall Bay and Island Bay and have shot them. I was just at Titahi Bay in the weekened and shot 20 frames off my Kodak Gold 100. Was in Palmerston North too on the Saturday and shot 10 shots of Superia 100, was raining lol. Finihsing up my C41 you see .. Just a roll of Fuji 160 NS and a roll of ProC 160. I may leave my UC400 and ProH 400 for overseas when I see family there. No don't do much people, birthdays and Christmas goes thru and I don't take the camera out unless we have visitors. But they are not that into photo's anyway so it is generally just 2 or 3 frames sitting together on the sofa.

I've started doing some b/w for street photography. But the beaches here. B/c I am drawn to the likes of Galen Rowell with magenta skies we don't actually get much of that here. We get a very light pink hue but mostly it is just grey with maybe some yellow of the sun but it is not very strong so it needs to hit you at a certain angle as you face at it, and that is the most it gets. Post sunset the light becomes draws into a shadow and it just dulls away so we don't get any soft light hitting the sand / rocks either. Wellington is known to be windy and it's a big sea out there so there are like rocks and stuff ... So pretty much no reflections. No trees unless you want to see houses too or hill tops.

Been toying around with twiligh blue skies since the light isn't great here. Which is ok for the CBD. In the beaches they just get too far too dark for the foreground.

PS just a bit of what I have done ..
http://www.flickr.com/photos/31194022@N00/

I am more selective with film even when I shoot it, at home, if it is not so great I do use digital. Even when it was digital, I did just to chase sunrise but it wasted a lot petrol. On a Saturday, I would drive out early morning to Oriental Parade or Island Bay and it was just dissapointing, many times I came home without taking a shot. Would be a lot easier if I was in the CBD or lived near the Bay, but I live north of Johnsonville thru the motorway.