Hi!
I'm restoring a petri color-corrected super and attempting my first collimation job to re-set infinity focus correctly after cleaning and re-lubing the helicoid (which WOW what a huge difference!!! I used #10 helicoid grease and that action is SMOOTH).
Maybe mostly looking for moral support here -
I'm basically using Mike Elek's technique documented here: https://elekm.net/zeiss-ikon/repair/collimate/. I made a small ground glass (just some cut a piece of semi-matte picture frame glass I use for wet mounting film scans and went at it with 220 sandpaper for a while) to use as a target, drew some lines on it with sharpie and pencil. The SLR is an SRT with a cheepie 135/2.8 celtic lens I had laying around.
I have a couple wonderings:
- It seems like the SRT's lens (or maybe the SRT's screen?) itself is probably not perfectly set for infinity, I tried the ole "point it at a distant tree" and the split focuser is not quite on target, if I focus a little closer i get a nice line-up. That's what I've been using for my collimating tests, does that seem reasonable? Is there a better way to check that? Am I deceiving myself and collimating with an SRT that's out of whack?
- The way the lens on the petri is, you have to remove the lens from the helicoid to access the screws that hold the focus ring to the helicoid (and thus set the infinity stop position), as it is, if the focus ring is set to where I _think_ infinity focus is, I can't turn it past infinity so although I think it's looking pretty good, I'm feeling unsure if it might not look a little better wiggled slightly past the current infinity stop. Is there some way to fenagle this to get everything set correctly with fewer lens disassemblies/reassemblies?
Current view of the target glass through the SRT, seems at least not terrible
This is what the focus ring looks like with the lens removed. The three visible screws in the long slots are what effectively fix the infinity position
Front view of the current setup. Shutter speed ring is removed because I was having some issues with b working when the lens was attached to the body and I wanted to see what the shutter was doing, but I think that's resolved now (the culprit appears to have be that the lens was mounted at slightly the wrong angle which was causing the shutter release pin to be depressed a bit which blocking a little lever in the copal shutter.
lil ground glass taped on the film rails
I'm restoring a petri color-corrected super and attempting my first collimation job to re-set infinity focus correctly after cleaning and re-lubing the helicoid (which WOW what a huge difference!!! I used #10 helicoid grease and that action is SMOOTH).
Maybe mostly looking for moral support here -
I'm basically using Mike Elek's technique documented here: https://elekm.net/zeiss-ikon/repair/collimate/. I made a small ground glass (just some cut a piece of semi-matte picture frame glass I use for wet mounting film scans and went at it with 220 sandpaper for a while) to use as a target, drew some lines on it with sharpie and pencil. The SLR is an SRT with a cheepie 135/2.8 celtic lens I had laying around.
I have a couple wonderings:
- It seems like the SRT's lens (or maybe the SRT's screen?) itself is probably not perfectly set for infinity, I tried the ole "point it at a distant tree" and the split focuser is not quite on target, if I focus a little closer i get a nice line-up. That's what I've been using for my collimating tests, does that seem reasonable? Is there a better way to check that? Am I deceiving myself and collimating with an SRT that's out of whack?
- The way the lens on the petri is, you have to remove the lens from the helicoid to access the screws that hold the focus ring to the helicoid (and thus set the infinity stop position), as it is, if the focus ring is set to where I _think_ infinity focus is, I can't turn it past infinity so although I think it's looking pretty good, I'm feeling unsure if it might not look a little better wiggled slightly past the current infinity stop. Is there some way to fenagle this to get everything set correctly with fewer lens disassemblies/reassemblies?
Current view of the target glass through the SRT, seems at least not terrible
This is what the focus ring looks like with the lens removed. The three visible screws in the long slots are what effectively fix the infinity position
Front view of the current setup. Shutter speed ring is removed because I was having some issues with b working when the lens was attached to the body and I wanted to see what the shutter was doing, but I think that's resolved now (the culprit appears to have be that the lens was mounted at slightly the wrong angle which was causing the shutter release pin to be depressed a bit which blocking a little lever in the copal shutter.
lil ground glass taped on the film rails