Coating your OWN ink jet papers

[Figital Revolution]

I just finished this article on my web site: www.figitalrevolution.com on coating your own ink jet paper as well as considerations on building a paper portfolio. This is really part of an on going post I have been making on scanning, color man now printing on alternative media. Check it out here:

http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/04/12/coating-your-own-ink-jet-paper/

Would love to hear your thoughts here or there.

Cheers-
Stephen Schaub

 

[pschwart]

I just finished this article on my web site: www.figitalrevolution.com on coating your own ink jet paper as well as considerations on building a paper portfolio. This is really part of an on going post I have been making on scanning, color man now printing on alternative media. Check it out here:

http://figitalrevolution.com/2008/04/12/coating-your-own-ink-jet-paper/

Would love to hear your thoughts here or there.

Cheers-
Stephen Schaub

Thanks for the videos. I'm a DIY kind of guy, too, and I can understand hand-coating specialty papers, but why coat COT320 when you can just use Bergger's own PN32 (Arches supplies the paper), or even Arches own Infinity (I think this may be Arches Watercolor)? It would be interesting to see a list of papers you think are worthy of hand-coating with some comments about their particular qualities. Are you limited to a pure matte finish when you hand-coat?

 

[Figital Revolution]

Thanks for the videos. I'm a DIY kind of guy, too, and I can understand hand-coating specialty papers, but why coat COT320 when you can just use Bergger's own PN32 (Arches supplies the paper), or even Arches own Infinity (I think this may be Arches Watercolor)? It would be interesting to see a list of papers you think are worthy of hand-coating with some comments about their particular qualities. Are you limited to a pure matte finish when you hand-coat?

I've been using the PN32 since 2003 (great paper) but the inkaid semi-gloss coating on Cot 320 is very, very different looking than PN32 or the Arch Infinity. As I indicated in the video some of the best papers are bases that you would use for platinum or other alt processes. Many of the Japanese papers work well, esp Mitsumata, (I use one from Bhutan). The coating is not matte but rather the slightest luster (varies depending on how many coats and paper sizing) which is fantastic...this of course could be dulled to matte or enhanced to gloss depending on the top coat. The results are fantastic and very analog in feel...I have printed on uncoated papers for years and still do but this process as described in the video is hard to beat.


Cheers-
Stephen

 

[pschwart]

I've been using the PN32 since 2003 (great paper) but the inkaid semi-gloss coating on Cot 320 is very, very different looking than PN32 or the Arch Infinity. As I indicated in the video some of the best papers are bases that you would use for platinum or other alt processes. Many of the Japanese papers work well, esp Mitsumata, (I use one from Bhutan). The coating is not matte but rather the slightest luster (varies depending on how many coats and paper sizing) which is fantastic...this of course could be dulled to matte or enhanced to gloss depending on the top coat. The results are fantastic and very analog in feel...I have printed on uncoated papers for years and still do but this process as described in the video is hard to beat.


Cheers-
Stephen

Ah, you are using the semigloss product. This could be interesting; I will give it a try.

 

[pschwart]

I've been using the PN32 since 2003 (great paper) but the inkaid semi-gloss coating on Cot 320 is very, very different looking than PN32 or the Arch Infinity. As I indicated in the video some of the best papers are bases that you would use for platinum or other alt processes. Many of the Japanese papers work well, esp Mitsumata, (I use one from Bhutan). The coating is not matte but rather the slightest luster (varies depending on how many coats and paper sizing) which is fantastic...this of course could be dulled to matte or enhanced to gloss depending on the top coat. The results are fantastic and very analog in feel...I have printed on uncoated papers for years and still do but this process as described in the video is hard to beat.


Cheers-
Stephen

I also meant to ask: do you get any gloss differential or bronzing using pigment inks? I refuse to spray my prints ...

 

[Figital Revolution]

Never been a problem (I build my own icc) on any of my prints but I do spray ALL as on uncoated papers (which I print on a lot) and hand coated papers it just provides a level of protection I want and it does not cause some of the problems associated with spraying that can happen on commercial ink jet paper.

Best-
Stephen

 

[donbga]

I refuse to spray my prints ...

Why?

Don Bryant

 

[pschwart]

Some inkjet papers take spray really well, but I hate the process of spraying. I don't like to spray watercolor papers because I don't like how it affects the hand of the paper. Visually everything is fine, but I hate the way it makes the paper feel. It seems like a crime to do that to beautiful paper, but I take your point that spraying protects the image.

 

[rmazzullo]

very, very interesting....the wheels are turning!

Thanks!

Bob Mazzullo
Staten Islsand, New York

 

[Ray Heath]

g'day Stephen, great videos

can you give more details?

what do you coat with?

can simpler, more readily available sizing be used? (gelatin or starch for example)

what do you spray with? (i assume to seal the finished print)

Ray

 

[Figital Revolution]

Ray- I coat using Inkaid Semi Gloss Pre Coat...the Bergger COT 320 has gelatin sizing/ coating which helps the paper keep most of the coating on the surface and not just get sucked into the base which would of course require more coats to correct...some does penetrate the gelatin but not as much as say an uncoated sheet. The gelatin coating also helps keep the surface of the paper intact so if you do decide to do 2 or 3 coats (personal pref) the surface looks great and still has its org char. I've been considering spaying some papers first before coating to use the Print Shield as a barrier to help keep the coating on the surface more and then doing a post spray again after the print has dried for 24 hours. Should work. I have been speaking with a friend who is a developer/ researcher in the development of inkjet coatings and he also feels that the gelatin on COT 320 with the inkaid seems like a great marriage.

Many of the papers I have printed on are made in Asia (Japan Spec) and in these cases the construction and core materials with Washi techniques is almost perfect without a coating...Gampi falls into this cat. I have over 30 different Gampi papers in stock but only a few will handle the coating without loosing its beauty. The COT 320 also because it is gelatin coated does not curl much once it is coated and dried whereas some papers (Vellum!!) curl like crazy.

Hope this helps.
Cheers-
Stephen Schaub