Close up filters, how do they work?

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erian

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Please check if my understanding about close up filters is correct.

The main principle of the close up work is to have enough extension between the lens and focal plane. The length needed depends on the focal length of the lens - for 1:1 macro the distance between the object and optical center and between focal plane and optical center must equal to twice the focal length.

Lenses with integrated focusing system have limited extension and can't therefore focus close.

Close up filters work by reducing the focal length of the lens. This reduces the required extension and this allows to use the same lens extension to focus closer and therefore get higher magnification.
 

AgX

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-) These are not filters, but lenses.

-) The idea is to put the subject into the focal plane of the close-up lens and take up its projection into infinity by the camera lens set at infinity.
 

alanrockwood

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Please check if my understanding about close up filters is correct.

The main principle of the close up work is to have enough extension between the lens and focal plane. The length needed depends on the focal length of the lens - for 1:1 macro the distance between the object and optical center and between focal plane and optical center must equal to twice the focal length.

Lenses with integrated focusing system have limited extension and can't therefore focus close.

Close up filters work by reducing the focal length of the lens. This reduces the required extension and this allows to use the same lens extension to focus closer and therefore get higher magnification.
Yes, you have it right.

One person pointed out that strictly speaking they are lenses, not filters, but they are screwed into the filter threads of a lens, which means they are used sort of like filters, so we sometimes call them filters, even though they are lenses. In my opinion there is not a term for these devices that is both convenient and accurate. Some folks call them diopters. The problem is that the term diopter is also used for eyesight correction devices in the viewfinder of a camera, so the term "diopter" is ambiguous when used alone. Some people call them close up lenses, but that's also ambiguous because macro lenses could also be called close up lenses. Some people call them close up diopters. Some people call them auxiliary lenses, or auxiliary close up lenses.... and so forth.

Anyway, enough of that. You are basically correct in your description of their use, or to be more accurate, you are basically correct in your description of one way they are used, i.e. focus close with the main lens and get even closer by adding the close up diopter lens. As one other person pointed out, they are also sometimes used by setting the main lens to infinity and then setting the object to be photographed at a distance of one focal length away from the diopter lens. (That's one focal length of the diopter, not one focal length of the main lens.)

You will find lots of unsupported comments made about whether simple diopter lenses can give good results, but it is extremely difficult to find actual tests of that assertion. However, it is pretty much universally agreed that achromatically corrected diopters can give very good results.

As to simple close up diopter lenses, if you want to use those you should plan on stopping your lens down so as to reduce some of the aberrations that are introduced by the close up diopter. In most cases you are going to want to stop your lens down anyway if you are making close up photos in the field. This is to maximize your depth of field, so maybe that limitation of simple diopters (i.e. less than ideal optical quality) is somewhat overblown.

However, if you can afford the more expensive achromatic diopters, just get those and don't worry about whether simple lenses are good or not. On the other hand, if you can't afford the more expensive diopters then just buy the cheapo simple diopters and learn how to use them. I'm sure you have fun with them, and you will be able to make some great photos with them, and probably nobody is going to look at your photos and say "Hey, you used those cheap simple element diopters on this photo, so it can't be any good."

If you do go for the cheap single element diopters then try to use the minimum power you can for a shot, because that will introduce less aberrations into your image. For example, use a +1 diopter with your lens focused close instead of a +2 diopter with your lens focused at infinity. (This is really only practical with an SLR camera or other through-the-lens focusing camera for technical reasons. Otherwise you are stuck with setting your main lens at infinity focus and using a more powerful close up diopter.)

The simple diopter approach is not going to get you into the true macro photography range because the aberrations are too great on the really powerful diopters that you would need to use to get into that range.... that is unless you want to intentionally make fuzzy photos for esthetic reasons.

Another trick: diopters have a greater effect on long focal length lenses than they do on short focal length lenses.

By the way, another use for close up diopters is that if you have a lens that doesn't focus quite close enough to crop a portrait the way you want it, then a fractional diopter can sometimes be used to get you into the right range, and a fractional diopter isn't going to hurt your optical quality much, even at a somewhat wide aperture. However, fractional diopters are not easy to find, and they tend to be expensive.
 

Dan Fromm

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[QUOTE="alanrockwood, post: 2405226, member: 16456"You will find lots of unsupported comments made about whether simple diopter lenses can give good results, but it is extremely difficult to find actual tests of that assertion. However, it is pretty much universally agreed that achromatically corrected diopters can give very good results.[/QUOTE]

Further on this point. In the 1970s, Modern Photography Magazine ran a series of educational articles on a two year cycle. One of the articles addressed the question "Which is better, diopters or extension tubes." IIRC, every time that article was published MP tested a fair number of 50 mm SLR lenses, maximum apertures f/1.7 - f/2. The answer was always the same Which gives better results depends on the lens. The only way to know which is better for a lens is to try both with it.

In '70-71 I had 50/1.4 Nikkor, got a set of Nikon's diopters for it. The results were terrible. Heavy field curvature. Late in '70 I bought a 55/3.5 MicroNikkor and haven't looked back.

OP, its great that you're trying to understand how things work, even better that you're having your understanding checked. But at today's prices there's no reason to cheap out and get a diopter. Just get a proper used macro lens.
 

AgX

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... fractional diopter isn't going to hurt your optical quality much, even at a somewhat wide aperture. However, fractional diopters are not easy to find, and they tend to be expensive.

Locally I repeatedly came across fractional diopters (segmented close-up lenses), either cut-in-half or bored out plain meniscus lenses. What I experience as practically noneexistant locally are achromatic (cemented 2-element, even meniscus) close-up lenses.
 

ic-racer

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They simply change the focal length of the lens by the value imprinted on the lens. 1 diopter value = 1000mm focal length. Diopter values can be added and subtracted.

50mm lens = +20
Diopter = +3 close up lens
Total = +20 + +3 = +23 = 43mm

Now your lens is shorter in focal length but it is still coupled to a focus helicoid for a longer lens. So it can focus closer (but can't reach infinity any longer)

In my experience the Rolleinar diopters give good results and my Spiratone 49mm close-up lenses from the 1970s are pretty bad.

Spiratone +3 Diopter:

repair 3.jpg


+16 Diopter doublet:

DSC_0501 2.JPG
 
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MattKing

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They are small and don't reduce the light intensity, so they are handy - you can put them in your bag, and use them with small things where field curvature isn't critical. Flowers come to mind.
 

alanrockwood

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By the way, has anyone seen a good experimental test of how well single element close up diopters can do in real life?

I have only seen one example. It was in a book about closeup photography, and it was far from a complete test and it was only for one object type (flat, not 3D). I don't remember all of the details, except that the lens was only partway closed down, and as I recall the diopter power was fairly large, and for all of those compromises the image sharpness was not all that bad... not quite up to what a macro lens did in the same test, but actually not too bad. If I can find it I will post the reference.

An experimental test should include both wide-open aperture, intermediate aperture, and small aperture testing. The medium and small aperture tests are important because in most real-life situations involving close ups of 3D objects, like flowers, one is fighting for depth of field so the lens is usually going to be stopped down anyway.
 

RalphLambrecht

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Please check if my understanding about close up filters is correct.

The main principle of the close up work is to have enough extension between the lens and focal plane. The length needed depends on the focal length of the lens - for 1:1 macro the distance between the object and optical center and between focal plane and optical center must equal to twice the focal length.

Lenses with integrated focusing system have limited extension and can't therefore focus close.
all correct;however, let me add some general statements:
1. close-up filters reduce optical quality,
2. extension rings are a viable alternative,
3. but, best quality comes only from specialized macro lenses.
Close up filters work by reducing the focal length of the lens. This reduces the required extension and this allows to use the same lens extension to focus closer and therefore get higher magnification.
 
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