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Cleaning Motor Oil Bottles to Use for Chemistry

I buy a 25L pail of laundry detergent (from Costco) every couple of months and have often thought about how great the pail would be for mixing chemicals, using one for rinsing film/prints, or for storing solutions. I consulted a chemist friend of mine looking for the best method to clean the pails, thinking of using something like acid, bleach, ammonia, or something he could mix up for me. He informed me that almost all household plastics are absorbent and that once a plastic container has held something with phosphates or strong alkaline materials (liquid or powder), it can never be truly "cleaned" so as not to contaminate any following substances. So, since these pails initially held phosphates (as many cleaners do), no matter how much cleaning I did, on the chemical level, they had some form of contamination and should not be used. In addition, most the contamination could continue for years due to the absorbency of the plastic. He recommended glass or a single product for the lifetime of any plastic container: i.e. developer in the same jug always; you can't rinse it out and the put stop/fix in that jug. Makes you wonder about all of the plastic bowls/Tupperware in one's kitchen.

I use the laundry pails to stand on when my tripod is fully extended and for carrying paper/cases/GPS/etc.
 
As with PE above, I'd buy specific containers designed for photo-chemicals...look after them and they'll last for years, no chance of residual contamination, or risk of accidents through re-using drinks bottles (I have a feeling that it's illegal in the UK to re-use drinks bottles to hold poisons?).

I recycle everything I can, but sometimes it's environmentally better to bin a unsuitable bottle rather than use nasty detergents and chemicals (or even gallons of hot water) just to try to clean it.

And, as Kevin K says, unsuitable plastics can also absorb contaminents...you only have to try to clean a plastic food container which has held something spicy like curry to see this.

I use Jobo-type bottles and measures, and lab glassware (ex Ebay) for mixing if I'm experimenting or making small quantities.
 
Just out of interest, If you end up with these bottles after an oil change, what have you put the old oil into for disposal?

Why not just keep them for this purpose for your next oil change?



Steve.
 
Thank you everyone for your answers. I appreciate it.

Why am I willing to risk getting oil on my film/chemistry: I'm not. It's why I was asking how to clean them. I like the bottles but I've never been successful at cleaning them. I thought I'd see if someone had a simple and effective way to do it that I hadn't thought of. It appears the answer is No. That's fine. I've got bottles of all kinds already. I just always liked the size/shape of motor oil bottles and thought they would be great, and since I end up with a bunch of them every time I change oil, why not try to put them to good use?

I'll probably end up buying the new ones from the link provided above and try them out. If they don't work, no big deal. But at least I tried.

What am I using for oil changes now? I have a large pastic drum, the kind you can drain the oil in and then close it up so you don't slop oil everywhere. I take it down to the local auto parts store who has a collection station and they empty it for me. No oil spills or messes, and I don't have to pour it into other containers, etc. But it leaves me with a half-dozen quart bottles that are good for nothing else.
 
Our curbside recyling will only take motor oil on old milk jugs.

I would want to store my photo chemicals in something that wasn't likely to taint them, as many people have already mentioned. The amount of absorbency you get from a lot of plastics has me thinking about glass bottles with stoppers, now.
 
My standard bottle is a liquor bottle. Jim Beam works well . For fixer I use a clear 1 gallon plastic apple juice container which for some reason is really thick plastic. I have been eyeing those large round glass bottles of cheap wine, but it would seem a waste to dump the wine, and I don't think I could stand drinking it.

Hydrogen Peroxide containers work well too, and they are less than buying the same bottle at the photo store.

Patrick
 
The Dead Link Removed mentioned earlier has many good bottles aside from the motor oil bottles, they also have the amber or clear glass Boston round bottles for cheaper than I've seen them at photo supply places. They have glass and plastic bottles with droppers built in, beakers, graduates, etc. Looks like a good place to get this stuff.
 
Try using Brakleen. It is a strong emulsifying solvent, but will not dissolve the plastic and should do the trick.

 
TheDreadPirateRobins said:
I would want to store my photo chemicals in
something that wasn't likely to taint them, as
many people have already mentioned.
The amount of absorbency you get from a lot
of plastics has me thinking about glass bottles
with stoppers, now.
Click to expand...

Absorbency is likely an issue with some plastics
although there must be some which are very safe.
As or more important an issue is clarity. At least
a few photo chemistries can deteriorate within
the bottles leaving deposits.

I believe Boston Rounds are now available in plastic
as well as clear glass, amber or clear; narrow or wide
mouth. The most sure seals are provided by the
Polycone or Polyseal caps; screw on caps
with PE cork within.

My suggestion is to store concentrates and stock
solutions in a few smaller bottles rather than one
or two large bottles. Dan
 

A soak in a strong solution of washing soda (and detergent) ought to do it. Rinse well....a cup or two of white vinegar in the final rinse will kill any remaining soda.
 
Just my .02¢ but any image worth the time and effort to capture and print is also worth clean chemistry bottles, if it isn't I wouldn't take it to begin with.
 
The above causes me to think/worry about the purpose-made plastic graduates that I use to mix chemistry in. Would/could this happen with them? Or does the short time the chemistry in in the graduates keep them safe? (like mixing developer in a graduate that had been used to mix fixer in) As to bottles to store stock chemicals in, either use glass for everything or plastic for dedicated chemistry and nothing else. By the way we used to store all developers in brown bottles, glass or plastic, because light (not just sunlight) had an effect on the chemistry. Was that just a folk-tale or is it still true?....Regards!
 
My mixing vessels are clearly marked, one each for developer and fix, no chance for cross contamination.
 
Maybe I'm messing up but I use the same plastic graduated cylinder for most of my measuring, and just wash it well after each use. The only exception I can think of offhand is that I use (separate) plastic syringes to measure HC-110 and to measure KRST. I do have separate dedicated plastic funnels for a variety of different uses: one for AgNO3 wastes, one for KRST, 2 dedicated funnels for diafine parts A and B, etc...
 
How about cleaning cooking oil containers and using them for photo chemicals?

They are HDPE (type 2). My wife uses canola oil and empties one every 2-3 months The containers are 3 litres, which for me is a good size. I'm not against buying the proper containers (I have lots of brown plastic and glass containers), but these are such a great size and readily available
 
Hexane or petroleum ether will remove all the oil from the bottles. Extremely flammable stuff so careful!
 
I have been using old brake fluid bottles with no issues. Cleaned with goop hand cleaner and then dawn detergent
 
As far as Oil containers, their are actually companies that have a business model on collecting them as recycling them, as they are not considered as suitable for general recycling. I don't think you can get them sufficiently clean to be trusted, and if you do you will be getting motor oil residue in your sewer system.

I also agree that it is not a great practice to reuse food or beverage c9ontainers forchemistry, as it does create the risk of your kin mistaking dektol for apple Juice.

I stick to using brown glass Boston rounds, which can be bought fairly inexpensively on e-bay or from dealers like B&H. The Glass will not adsorb chemicals so they can be cleaned for reuse. They LOOK like chmicals so folks will stand back, and they last Basicaly forever.
 
Talked with the chemist that tested the oil bottles ability to keep oxygen and moisture out of the oil. Forget it. Bottles are way too porous. Go idea but the plastic is not your friend in this case.
 
They ship hc110 and many other developers in plastic. It can't be that detrimental if they have indefinite life in concentrate form.
 
trythis said:
They ship hc110 and many other developers in plastic. It can't be that detrimental if they have indefinite life in concentrate form.
Click to expand...

HC-110 doesn't degrade due to oxygen permeability - it only degrades if water is introduced.
 
MattKing said:
HC-110 doesn't degrade due to oxygen permeability - it only degrades if water is introduced.
Click to expand...

Moisture in the air must be enough to degrade HC-110 because my bottle of this developer has gone from light yellow to dark orange and no water has gotten into that bottle aside from water vapor that might be in the air.

Took about 6 months to go deep orange.
 

Right on, Glass is Class.
 
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