Cleaning a Stubborn Print Drum

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bvy

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I've been battling with a stubborn 16x20 Unicolor print drum for several weeks now. I got it for next to nothing and now I see why. There are no leaks and it's not deformed or anything, but the interior walls are lined with a white crud that won't easily come off. I can scratch it with my nail and it reveals the black wall of the drum, so I don't think it's hopeless. But it would be good to find a chemical that will clean it, as I doubt I can get to all the nooks and crannies what with the raised ribs and guides lining the inside.

Things I've tried (more or less in order): Dish soap and hot water, Efferdent, Original Krud Kutter, CLR, WD-40, peroxide, Bon Ami -- some with a green scrubber. It seems to not matter what chemical I use -- heavy scrubbing is the only thing it responds to. And even then, not cleanly. I don't want to use bleach, but I don't think it would work anyway.

Am I missing a magic potion? Thanks in advance.
 

pentaxuser

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Being based in the U.K. the stuff you mention means nothing to me so I can't help with specific product names but I don't think that bleach would do any harm and I'd have thought it would work. Patience is the key with bleach. It doesn't have to be that strong. You simply fill the drum up beyond where the "crud" is, check progress every day but be prepared to leave it there for a few days. It works in Nova processors, even taking the dark stain of fixer off.

pentaxuser
 

pentaxuser

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Thanks. I think it was PE that recommended against bleach. So I was just following his good advice.

I hadn't recalled this. Was it in relation to the material that print drums are made of and if so I wonder if the risk arises beyond a certain strength of solution?

Certainly a number of posters here, myself included have used bleach to clean developing reels without problems so far.

I think that quite low concentrations of bleach will work. Your best friend is time. If you can scratch through it with your nail I'd have thought that scrubbing the inside with even hot soapy water and a stiff brush might work.

I am surprised that so far I am the only contributor in over 24 hours. Everyone else must be too busy debating the future of Kodak Alaris :D

pentaxuser
 

MattKing

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If the stuff won't come off, does it matter if it is there?

I'm replying to this for two reasons:
1) because it is so simple and clear and well said; and
2) because I finally figured out how to "Reply with Quote" using Tapatalk on a Tablet.
 

winger

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If the stuff won't come off, does it matter if it is there?

If some will flake off when scratched, then some could come off onto the print - and usually at the worst time.

If it's from your geographic area, it's likely hard water deposits. I've NEVER found something to get them off the shower door in our house there. The stuff that did the most was something labeled for hard water removal (so sorry I can't remember the name of it and it's still back there).
 

John51

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I find VWE pretty good for getting rid of mank. It's for cleaning/sterilising homebrew equipment. With an overnight soaking, it will loosen up the years old gunge from 'bargain' demijohns.

e2a: When doing the overnight soak with whatever, might be worth a try to have the heaters on.
 

Rick A

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Denture cleanser tablets, cold water, and soak over night. That's how I used to clean my slot processor.
 

Rick A

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Seems it needs at least 8 hours to work properly. BTW, that was a trick I learnt for cleaning a certain water filled smoking device of dubious character.
 

pentaxuser

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If the tablets don't work try getting two old sets of dentures between your hand and threatening the drum with them. Shock is more powerful than most people realise :D

pentaxuser
 

dorff

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The reason not to use bleach is because it may harm the plastic, and it won't dissolve hard metal ions such as Ca and Mg.

You can try a mixture of vinegar and citric acid, warm, and left to soak a few hours. Adding EDTA will certainly help a lot, if you have any at hand. But it won't help to be in a hurry.
 
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