Clayton paper developers and fixers. Some ???

[menglert]

I’m interested in buying some Clayton chemistry to develop my prints with. The problem I’ve found is there is a lack of information about the chemistry, such as, development times, fixing times, and temp.

Currently I have Clayton’s Archival Fixer (without fix times), and fail to see how its different from the Rapid Fixer. I’m interested in trying one of their print developers, but would like to find something similar to dektol.

I did try sending an email to Clayton a few weeks ago, but did not get a response. Does anyone have more information / experience with this chemistry?

Thanks,
Martin

 

[Ole]

He's slow today - it's usually far less than 10 seconds before you get a recommendation of a Clayton product here.

 

[jim appleyard]

He's slow today - it's usually far less than 10 seconds before you get a recommendation of a Clayton product here.

 

[Gerald Koch]

When printing you should be watching the print as it develops and not the clock. Prints are developed to completion. In other words, past a certain point there is little visible change in density with increased time in the developer. For a properly exposed print, make note of the time that it takes for the print to come up and then extend development for an equal amount of time. In fact some people will say to extend the time for twice as long. While their is little change in density the print will gain in contrast.

 

[Paul Howell]

I use Clayton odorless rapid fixer and I use the same times I use for Kodak rapid fixer, 2 mints for most films 5 to 10 mints for t grain, two mints for paper. I have no idea what the difference is between the rapid fix and archival fix is. I have used the the neutral and cold tone paper developer and again used both as if they were dektol, no problems. I think the mixing ratios are listed on the Clayton web site.

Clayton makes a good product.

 

[lowellh]

Clayton Archival Fixer will clear film in twenty seconds or less. Fixing time film or paper, at most forty to sixty seconds. Archival Fix and Rapid Fix are both rapid, acid fixers. The difference is that Archival Fix has about 40% more sodium sulfite in the formula than others. The sodium sulfite does a great job of "bleaching" out the sensitizing dye from designer grain films.
Iamb sorry I missed your ae mail, send it to me again and i will send complete information back.

 

[menglert]

Thanks for the responses. I think that answered my questions, and I'll be expanding my use of Clayton chemistry.

A couple questions about the paper developers...

Will I notice a difference between the P20 & P2000 print developers when using neutral toned papers such as Varycon?

Also, will the Cold tone developer work with neutral tone papers such as Varycon?

Regards,
Martin

 

[Photo Engineer]

Clayton Archival Fixer will clear film in twenty seconds or less. Fixing time film or paper, at most forty to sixty seconds. Archival Fix and Rapid Fix are both rapid, acid fixers. The difference is that Archival Fix has about 40% more sodium sulfite in the formula than others. The sodium sulfite does a great job of "bleaching" out the sensitizing dye from designer grain films.
Iamb sorry I missed your ae mail, send it to me again and i will send complete information back.

I have tested their products.

They are ordinary developers and fixes without any special characteristics. In particular, the claim about fix rate is not correct. The fix has an ordinary fix rate, nothing special. It is similar to Kodak Rapid Fix. Please see my test results for the fixers posted on Photo Net.

PE

 

[titrisol]

Clayton produts are very good products.
I liked their fixer (odorless) and use the times for any other rapid fixer.

I guess their paper developers are at par with almost any other and they do a good job.
Since I develop mostly by inspection times are quite irrelevant but 45-60s for RC paper should be in the ball park.

 

[fjpod]

Old thread, i know, but have a question about Clayton rapid fixer. I had a 3/4 full bottle in a dark cool cabinet for about 6 months. When i recently went to mix a liter of working solution, there was a hard sediment at the bottom. I shook it for several minutes and the solution became cloudy. I mixed a batch anyway and tested it with a film clip. It cleared the film in just over a minute. I developed and fixed 2 rolls of t Max. Gave it extra time to about 5 minutes. Seemed to work fine. Got all the purple cast out with good rinsing. Then I printed about a dozen non critical prints. They seem fine also but the whole time the working solution was murky/milky. Tested it several times with film clips and again it cleared in just over a minute.

Safe to continue?

 

[Photo Engineer]

No. The sediment may embed itself in the swollen gelatin and leave specks in the negatives.

Do not use any processing solution with sediment.

PE