Chromoskedasic printing-anyone tried it?

Dan Dozer · Jun 6, 2010

So - the Chromoskedasic process has intrigued me for some time and with the article on it in the May/June issue of PhotoTechnique magazine, I decided to give it a try. I got the activator, stabilizer, the Legacy Pro Ecopro BW paper developer, used Ilford Warmtone glossy paper, and followed all the directions in the article.

The results were extremely disappointing.

1 - First I tried the brush applied method. With both the stabilizer and activator, I got virtually no color changing at all. Only when I re-applied developer did I get anything and that was a pretty intense yellow orange to the highlights. There was no color change in the darker tones at all.

The confusing thing was that when I turned on the darkroom lights for the application of the stabilizer, there was virtually no darkening of the print from the lights being on in the darkroom. I have no idea why this didn't affect anything because the print was not fixed yet. My light is a standard 2 tube fluorescent light in the ceiling. May be it just isn't the right wavelength to affect the paper much after it's gone through the developer process.

2 - So - I then tried the tray method and it went much worse. There was no color change at all. They did get a little darker from the first tray, but there was no "Fluorescing" even after 10 minutes. Then when it went into try #2 with the darkroom lights turned on, nothing changed at all. The only thing I got were dark bluish gray prints with blotches in the highlight areas.

Has anyone else out there tried this process yet and did it work anything like what the articles say? None of my prints turned out anything like what was shown in the article.

bsdunek · Jun 6, 2010

Interesting. I'm glad you started this thread. I just received my chemicals from Freestyle and haven't had time to try them yet. I was inspired by Christina Z. Anderson. Her Chromoskedasic looks pretty neat, and I have a few negatives I think would make good subjects. I'll post as soon as I try it.
The other thing I tried recently was Liquid Light. I brushed it on watercolor paper. The results are different than I expected, but I like them. You can see a couple on my web site.

Dan Dozer · Jun 6, 2010

Bruce,

I did the same - got all the chemicals from Freestyle based on Christina's article. I agree that her images look beautiful, but my images didn't turn out anything like hers and I wouldn't even want to show mine to anyone. I'm not sure what the problem is. Please post back to this thread when you have a chance to try it out. I'm very interested in your results.

Dan

Rick A · Jun 7, 2010

Thanks for posting this. I've been curious to try some of the methods shown at Freestyle, but reluctant because the articles really dont go into enough detail to explain the actual process for me. I think its just a teaser to get people to buy the process kits, then pay for the real instructions, or a seminar, or both. Nothing is ever as simple as it seems.

ruilourosa · Jun 7, 2010

would be wonderful if anyone revealed the formulas (with the exact amounts) of this process

i do not have access to tektol or anyother of the other commercial chemicals, and honestly i do not want to have, next year they are gone...

i tryed a few years ago with some ammonium thiocyanide and potassium hidroxide but the results were a bit disappointing i got color and silver plating but not in the amount i desired...

thanks

alexhill · Jun 7, 2010

There is a dramatic color shift with some of the colors when the print is fixed as well as when the
print is dried. The blues and purples dry down to silver which will fluoresce blue and purple in
oblique light. The pinky reds will dry browner. If you want to preserve these colors as close to as
they are, you can use a solution of one part of 5% sodium thiocyanate with five parts of water instead
of the usual fix. Agitate in this for about 20 seconds. This tip from Jolly.

As Jolly has found, the color obtained is related to the pH of the developer. High pH leans toward
the red end of the spectrum and low pH leans toward the blue end of the spectrum. Activator increases
the pH.
If color forms too slowly, raise the pH. If color forms too quickly, reduce the pH. However,
changing the pH will affect the spectral quality of the color.

check out this link

bsdunek · Jun 12, 2010

So I finally got in the darkroom to try the Chromoskedasic process. I have spent two afternoons trying to achieve something I like, and finally have. I just put it up in the Gallery, plus, it will be on my web site.
I deviated from Christina's instructions though - I just couldn't get any color or contrast that way. I'm thinking fiber base paper might work better, as it would hole chemicals better.
I used Adox 310 RC VC paper, which is not on the list, but it's what I have. After developing and rinse, I apply the Stabilizer where I want the light yellow. I do this after the print starts to darken. Then I apply the Activator where I want the dark colors. I just kept doing this plus just let it 'cook' under the light. Then I diluted some working strength developer another 2:1 and lightly apply this to the dark areas. Without this additional developer, all the color would wash out in the fixer. Don't apply too much developer, as the color will become 'muddy', especially after fixing.
Anyway, this is what I achieved. After this, Freestyle stock should go up a few points when I restock.

alexhill · Jun 12, 2010

Fiber paper makes everything better

bsdunek · Jun 12, 2010

alexhill said:
Fiber paper makes everything better

Ya! I need to quit being lazy and go back to fiber paper. Grew up using it, but then tried RC and it was so EASY! Not the same though.

keithwms · Jun 12, 2010

Interesting. First I'd heard of this, it looks interesting.

Dan, let me suggest doing a systematic test in which you expose your paper in test strip fashion, and then snip it up in the perpendicular direction, so that you can develop those to varying levels of completion. Thus you'd have an exposure/development matrix and could pin down which is optimal.

Another thing is, I wonder if your rinse water provides enough pH swing to inhibit the solarization (?) just thinking aloud....

Offhand I'd guess that with fiber paper, it would take longer to rinse out the dev. Maybe you want some residual dev in there, or maybe not? Hmm.

Anyway I look forward to seeing some examples!

dant1978 · Apr 12, 2012

I know this is an old thread but thought I would reply anyway. First question I would have is; Did the image you were using have an appreciable amount of whites? I ask because the white areas of the print is where the real color change is going to occur, color change in darker areas is limited or none.

dant1978 · Apr 12, 2012

I don't agree with that statement. My best chromo prints have been when I use Ilford warmtone glossy rc vc paper

Abhi · Nov 28, 2019

Hi, reviving the old thread..sorry

I wanted to ask, does anyone have the instruction on mixing the chemicals.eg stabilizer and activator?

winger · Nov 28, 2019

Abhi said:
Hi, reviving the old thread..sorry

I wanted to ask, does anyone have the instruction on mixing the chemicals.eg stabilizer and activator?

If you're using the Arista ones from Freestyle, they have pdfs on their site, accessible from the product page - https://www.freestylephoto.biz/10945-Arista-Premium-BW-Chromo-Activator-for-Chromoskedasic-Sabattier

If you're asking for recipes to make your own, sorry, I don't have that. In Christina Z. Anderson's book, The Experimental photography Workbook," it only refers to Arista activator and stabilizer and doesn't give recipes for them.

Guillaume Zuili · Nov 28, 2019

Instructions are just starting points. Try different mixes and break the rules. Go back and forth in Dektol (or different dev) between stab and activator.
And you must have a good ventilation in the darkroom. Stab is nasty.
This link from few years ago, I was just doing Chromo :

Abhi · Nov 28, 2019

winger said:
If you're using the Arista ones from Freestyle, they have pdfs on their site, accessible from the product page - https://www.freestylephoto.biz/10945-Arista-Premium-BW-Chromo-Activator-for-Chromoskedasic-Sabattier

If you're asking for recipes to make your own, sorry, I don't have that. In Christina Z. Anderson's book, The Experimental photography Workbook," it only refers to Arista activator and stabilizer and doesn't give recipes for them.

Thanks @winger

Abhi · Nov 28, 2019

Guillaume Zuili said:
Instructions are just starting points. Try different mixes and break the rules. Go back and forth in Dektol (or different dev) between stab and activator.
And you must have a good ventilation in the darkroom. Stab is nasty.
This link from few years ago, I was just doing Chromo :

Yes, i just saw this video last night. was good seeing you do the process, nice video. i will be trying my first tonight. lets hope for the best.
Thank you Guillaume

Abhi · Nov 29, 2019

Hi again, i did try the print last night. i could only get yellowwish tint. No changes till the end. WWill post the pic later. I have thiocynade and potassium hydroxide, i mixed it directly with cold water and later added warm water. I could not find how to make the formula for it. i would like to make a liter of it both...
Can anyone help ...
@Guillaume Zuili
@winger

Thank you

Guillaume Zuili · Dec 1, 2019

Hey,

You have a hint of the formulas in pdf on Freestyle.
You can also order Chromo from Moersch in Germany.

Most important (for me...) is the Stab. Keep it and replenish. As it evolves colors and effects will change.
Try a lot of different papers. They all have a different color of their own. That will change too when Stab matures.
You can get some strong silvering effect by:
1) putting the print from dev to Stab fully immerged
2) putting it back to Dev and back to Stab.

Print pulled from Lith developer takes a lot of time to fog. You can use a brush to paint locally. Print changes very slowly and it's a good thing.
Activator is the last step. Nothing changes much after print went through Activator.

All best,
G.

Abhi · Dec 1, 2019

Guillaume Zuili said:
Hey,

You have a hint of the formulas in pdf on Freestyle.
You can also order Chromo from Moersch in Germany.

Most important (for me...) is the Stab. Keep it and replenish. As it evolves colors and effects will change.
Try a lot of different papers. They all have a different color of their own. That will change too when Stab matures.
You can get some strong silvering effect by:
1) putting the print from dev to Stab fully immerged
2) putting it back to Dev and back to Stab.

Print pulled from Lith developer takes a lot of time to fog. You can use a brush to paint locally. Print changes very slowly and it's a good thing.
Activator is the last step. Nothing changes much after print went through Activator.

All best,
G.

Wonderful suggestions, thanks a lot
Will be trying more this week..

ruilourosa · Dec 2, 2019

DIY formulas?? anyone????

i do not have easy access to comercial products...

Thanks!!!

Abhi · Dec 5, 2019

ruilourosa said:
DIY formulas?? anyone????

i do not have easy access to comercial products...

Thanks!!!

Hi, i only know of Ammonium Thiocynade and Potassium Hydroxide. And the other is the paper developing process. dev, stop, fix, wash.
Hope it helps.

Chromoskedasic printing-anyone tried it?

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