Thank you for the reference, i agree that when used correctly even pushed hp5 can look amazing at night or in concert-like events, however, even without considering pushing the film, I'm still having the dilemma between the two (delta/HP5) I like the sharpness of delta, but i also like the "artistic, 40's aesthetic" of HP5, actually prefer the organic grain over "pepperiness" of delta, i guess it comes down to personal philosophical view, do i want the modern sharpness and pepper grain that comes with it or more organic grain with less sharpness, at the end of the day, i have to make a choice but can't seem to be able to
Ultimately, you need to try all of your film options yourself and decide how they compare. Buy a 24 exposure roll of both (or all three: TMZ) and shoot tests of them - preferably the same scene(s) - and develop them the way you expect to use them, and do your own comparisons.I'm still having the dilemma between the two (delta/HP5) I like the sharpness of delta, but i also like the "artistic, 40's aesthetic" of HP5, actually prefer the organic grain over "pepperiness" of delta, i guess it comes down to personal philosophical view, do i want the modern sharpness and pepper grain that comes with it or more organic grain with less sharpness, at the end of the day, i have to make a choice but can't seem to be able to
My solution to this dilemma - needing drastically different exposure indices and levels of detail over a short period - has been to carry two bodies. One has FP4 or Kentmere 100, the other has HP5 at 800-1600. This may or may not be a practical approach for you.
Regardless, the best solution is to dive in and see what works best for you. I find that these infinite loop analysis paralysis situations are usually resolved after a roll or two and the many internet comments become immediately irrelevant. As a result, there are some films (and cameras and lenses…) I will never bother using again, and then there are binders full of HP5 negatives run through Nikons. (Sorry for the jab, I might be one of the few who picked up an Olympus body and immediately realized it wasn’t meant to be. I’ll try to do something nice today to redeem myself.)
Ultimately, you need to try all of your film options yourself and decide how they compare. Buy a 24 exposure roll of both (or all three: TMZ) and shoot tests of them - preferably the same scene(s) - and develop them the way you expect to use them, and do your own comparisons.
If you must know exactly how they stack up against each other before buying 100’ of film, then testing each first is the only practical choice.
As I said earlier, Delta 400 is absolutely my preference over HP5 (in small formats) - it has a clarity and “sparkle” in the upper values that HP5 simply doesn’t have. It’s great for many applications, but isn’t a great fit for how I like to work.
Some examples of work done on Delta 400:
Kentmere 400 really is quite good pushed to 1600, and it does so very well in D-76 stock. Examples of K400 pushed to 1600 in D-76:You can always buy a couple rolls of each film, try them out at 1600 and then see which you like better. I would avoid Kentmere, as I find it's grain at 400 is larger than HP5, and much more noticeable than Delta.
HP5 seems to have a slightly lower contrast index than Delta when developed to the Ilford times, so it will probably be a good film to push.
Although you have lots of D76, you might wish to try a package of Ilford Microphen, as that does increase film speed.
Thanks.the examples given here are really quite nice !
The only thing that can break delta for me is if the dynamic range (latitude ?) is REALLY less than hp5, which it should be theoretically, but from what i understand as long as i expose properly i should be good in most conditions.
dead link?
It works for me, but for some reason it won't let me enter EDIT to check. Try a CUT & PASTE.
However, I also read that the Delta pushes very poorly to 1600, resulting in inky blocks of shadow and blown white highlights (less latitude ?), I don't know to which extent that is true, but as much as i want the sharpness and subtle grey gradients of delta, i can't go with it if that means compromising every night shot.
D400 pushes quite nicely to 1600. That is about its limit, and the same with HP5.
But...HP5 has been my main conventional BW filmt for decades, in roll films, up to LF, for many reasons.
Since you want both HP5+ and Delta 400, maybe instead of commiting to one and buying a bulk roll to save only a few bucks, you could place large orders of both films. There's places when you get a discount when buying like 10 rolls in one go.
Since you want both HP5+ and Delta 400, maybe instead of commiting to one and buying a bulk roll to save only a few bucks, you could place large orders of both films. There's places when you get a discount when buying like 10 rolls in one go.
Buying Ilford films in 100' rolls doesn't just save you "a few bucks" - it can be as much of a difference as cutting your costs in half. That is not an insignificant saving.
In Europe ? My current supplier is Fotoimpex from germany, i don't know any other european bulk supplier
I don't know about half. Right now on photoimpex a 10 pack of 36 exp HP5+ is 9,5€ per roll. A 30,5 Meters / 100 ft bulk roll is 125,9€, so assuming no waste and no mistakes when loading the canisters it's what, 18 rolls of 36exp ? So 6,9€ per roll. You'd have to shoot a lot to cover the cost of good bulk loading gear (not cheap !) before it's interesting. Sure, it will be at one point and for folks shooting large volume and commited to one film it can make sense. But since OP obviously want to have both HP5+ and Delta 400 in it's arsenal, I'm not sure bulk loading is the best option.
And as for film, my all time favorite is T-Max 400....
Cost. Where I am a of TMY is nearly double that of HP5 or Delta (Delta 400 is actually a bit cheaper than HP5) and TMX is about $4 a roll more than TMY.For B&W films, I agree. T-Max 400 is the winner, hands-down. It has finer grain than some ISO 100-125 films and an almost straight-line H&D curve. I'm not sure why it isn't more popular.
For B&W films, I agree. T-Max 400 is the winner, hands-down. It has finer grain than some ISO 100-125 films and an almost straight-line H&D curve. I'm not sure why it isn't more popular.
T-Max 400 gives you the ability to produce work that ranges between results that are similar to digital, and results that are fundamentally film like. It is very adaptable.
Cost. Where I am....
Because it produces an image....
Because it produces an image with a perfectly long and linear curve. It makes you question your life choices. Digital cameras are better at being T-Max than T-Max is. I am half-joking, but it's just too perfect. I once did a photoshoot in the studio with T-Max 400 and a digital body. Then I scanned the negatives using the same digital body and showed the resulting mix to the model. She couldn't tell them apart and neither could I after a few weeks. T-Max films are pointless in the digital era. They aren't "filmy", they are "digital".
HP5, on the other hand, you can't confuse an HP5 scan/print for a digital one.
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