Chems for Developing Adox 25

cynan

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I've ordered some Ortho film - Adox 25

This will be my first time developing 4x5. I'm going for the two part pipe method at the moment. I will probably use Rodinal 1:100 for 11min(?) at 20oC (???) rotating at 10rpm

I'll probably use citric acid as a stopbath

I'm not sure what Fixer I should use. Should the fixer contain hardener? And how long should I fix?

Thanks
 

srs5694

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Adox/Efke 25 isn't a fully ortho film. It's often described as "orthopanchromatic," meaning that it's got reduced red sensitivity, but it's still partially sensitive to red. I wouldn't recommend using it under red safelight conditions; it'll probably fog. (I've not tested this experimentally, though.)

As to processing, it's supposed to do well in dilute Rodinal, although I have yet to try that combination. The emulsion is softer than most, so using a fixer with hardener is recommended. Depending on how you'll be handling the film, hardening it earlier than the fixing step may be worthwhile. I've seen discussions of this elsewhere on APUG, but I don't recall the details.
 

rtuttle

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I have tray developed some of this film in Rodinal 50:1 and made some nice looking negatives. As of yet (5 sessions or so) I have not had a scratching problem. The base color is pinkish, which is kind of strange. So far I have not printed any of the negatives but it makes me wonder if the pinkish base might alter the VC paper contrast? It's only slight so it shouldn't make a mess of it but it must have some sort of affect.
 
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cynan

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Orthopanchromatic! Bl**dy b*gger! I was hoping to use my safelight.

But thanks for the info - what fixers are you all using?
 

juan

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I don't know that hardening fixer is the answer with Efke/Adox films - they can be easily scratched long before the fixer stage. Careful handling is necessary. I use TF-2 fixer for all of my non-Tgrain films.
juan
 

Alan Johnson

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There are now two Adox 25 films. The regular one is Adox 25 which I believe is the same as Efke 25 and is orthopanchromatic. The rarer one,which I believe to be fairly new, is Adox Ortho 25 which is orthochromatic. I believe you mention in your other recent thread that you have Adox Ortho 25.
I have some of this,unused, as well and I was guessing 9m in Rodinal 1:100 68F but your guess may be better.I have previously used Maco ortho film and just used the regular stop and fix but cutting the fixing time down a bit as that was a microfilm with thin emulsion.
 
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cynan

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So for Adox ortho 25 (sorry) I can use, lets say.. Rodinal 1:100 for about 9m then Stop with added hardener(?). Finally fix with ... Can anyone recommend a suitable fixer/time/temp for flimsy ortho film?

Am I right in that you fix for twice as long as the film took to clear?
 

Tom Hoskinson

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Can anyone recommend a suitable fixer/time/temp for flimsy ortho film?

Drop the film leader into the fixer and agitate, while recording the time it takes the film to clear. Then double the clearing time.

Flimsy film??? Not in my experience. I develop Efke in Pyrocat-MC, followed by a water rinse (no stop bath) and then fix in Neutral Rapid Fixer (NO HARDENER).

You can scratch any film if you're not careful while handling it.
 

Alan Johnson

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With the Adox Ortho 25 you may be doing pioneering work on a fairly new film.Reading jandcphoto.com...resolution 350 lpm..it sounds like a microfilm similar to the discontinued Maco Ort 25c. Just for a first estimate, try the Adox Ortho 25 at EI 12 develop Rodinal 1:100 9-11min 68F.I never had any problem with ordinary stop and fix 5min with Maco Ort and I suggest this for the Adox Ortho 25 too.The hardener is not needed,that is sometimes used for the regular Adox 25, never heard of its use with microfilm.
Well that should get something visible on the film, then pioneering improvements.
 
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cynan

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Pioneering. I like it! I cant find Maco Ort (I keep getting Maco ort 25 film ) Alternatives would be any regular, non-hardening, rapid fixer, right?
 

Alan Johnson

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Sorry,I was not very clear there.I meant I used to stop and fix 5min when using Maco Ort 25c ortho film.
Yes,any regular non-hardening fixer for 5 minutes should be OK. Later you may care to reduce this time using the 2x clearing time test you mentioned just to make sure no tiny bits of grain get dissolved but the 5min fix is quite OK to start with IMO.
Prints of remarkable clarity and smoothness might be expected from this film,worth the pioneering.
 
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