Checking a Nikon FM
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I don't like getting anything that dirty anywhere near my test equipment, so the first thing was to clean the camera. At the same time I replaced some of the deteriorating foam on the focus screen frame. This is a later FM in which the focus screen can be reomved from inside the mirror box.
The highest speed is just out of accepted tolerances. The slower speeds are fantastic.
At nominal 1/1000, the upper frame is -0.13 EV and lower frame is -0.05 EV compared to the middle. This is actually very good.
First curtain: 5.3 ms
Second curtain: 5.42 ms; both OK.
At nominal 1/1000, the upper frame is -0.13 EV and lower frame is -0.05 EV compared to the middle. This is actually very good.
First curtain: 5.3 ms
Second curtain: 5.42 ms; both OK.
| 1s | 0EV |
| 1/2 | 0EV |
| 1/4 | +0.1EV |
| 1/8 | 0EV |
| 1/16 | 0EV |
| 1/32 | 0EV |
| 1/64 | +0.1EV |
| 1/128 | +0.1EV |
| 1/256 | +0.3EV |
| 1/512 | +0.3EV |
| 1/1024 | +0.5EV |
great job cleaning and testing it. I had 3 FMs in my lifetime; two have survived; one was an economic write-off after the shutter had died (after 40 years). Fantastic cameras!
Looks nice!
Yeah, the FM and subsequent models have proven to be solid cameras.
Yeah, the FM and subsequent models have proven to be solid cameras.
but it's getting harder to get a Nkon repairman.
It's interesting to note that it took Nikon three attempts to get the FM right. I have the 3rd version with the first versions pentaprism (do to de-silvering) and knurled rewind knob installed on it. I also replaced the foam around its eyepiece while I was in there.
I have fitted the camera with a well-made custom grip and soft-release shutter button which has completely transformed its handling for the better.
One problem that I am a bit stumped on is that the shutter speed readout fails to go below 1/8 of a second.
Did you take the shutter speed knob and FRE assembly off and get the string for the speed readout around the wheel correctly afterwards?
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I didn't, but someone else must have.
The FM had a different meter couple that the newer models, which used a piece of string to could the aperture ring to the meter. I like my FE2 but my buddy gave me a second one that has no meter coupling, need to tear it apart someday.
Whatever the question is, the answer is more than likely a Nikon FM 
Simple, elegant design that Nikon rightly used for 25 years. All the features you need, nothing you don't. Compatible with more Nikkor lenses than any other Nikon save maybe the F4 (?). Rock solid durability. Seeing a clearly well-used 45 year old mechanical camera barely half an EV out says something.
I understand why the AE-1 outsold these 5-1 back in the day (dollars rule, after all, and the Canon's microprocessor controlled guts was the future) but why'd you'd choose one over an FM nowadays when they both go for around the same price is beyond me. Nostalgia, maybe... but you're purchasing a worse camera.
I've had two so far, a well used later example was my first serious camera back in the 1990s. My current is a mint early model with the shutter lock collar and knurled rewind knob. It's kinda a shame Nikon simplified the design during the production run to save money - that knurling feels glorious, albeit completely unnecessary. Though it's taken years to deprogram my muscle memory to remember to unlock the shutter collar. Having everything tied to the winder arm makes more sense, even if it annoys left-eye shooters (allegedly).
Unfortunately the current one has a B-type screen without a split-rangefinder, which I much prefer for focussing. On the lookout for a well used later-type, 'brassed' black beater for regular use, and keep the pretty one pretty.
Simple, elegant design that Nikon rightly used for 25 years. All the features you need, nothing you don't. Compatible with more Nikkor lenses than any other Nikon save maybe the F4 (?). Rock solid durability. Seeing a clearly well-used 45 year old mechanical camera barely half an EV out says something.
I understand why the AE-1 outsold these 5-1 back in the day (dollars rule, after all, and the Canon's microprocessor controlled guts was the future) but why'd you'd choose one over an FM nowadays when they both go for around the same price is beyond me. Nostalgia, maybe... but you're purchasing a worse camera.
I've had two so far, a well used later example was my first serious camera back in the 1990s. My current is a mint early model with the shutter lock collar and knurled rewind knob. It's kinda a shame Nikon simplified the design during the production run to save money - that knurling feels glorious, albeit completely unnecessary. Though it's taken years to deprogram my muscle memory to remember to unlock the shutter collar. Having everything tied to the winder arm makes more sense, even if it annoys left-eye shooters (allegedly).
Unfortunately the current one has a B-type screen without a split-rangefinder, which I much prefer for focussing. On the lookout for a well used later-type, 'brassed' black beater for regular use, and keep the pretty one pretty.
So, after using this camera for a few days, it is easier to use than the 'Holy Grail' F2AS. The FM shows the same information in the finder, AND the FM has a more modern vertical shutter in a smaller overall package.
I also like the way the aperture couple can flip up. I don't have this on my N90s or F6 (though I know it was an option at one time for the F6).
I also like the way the aperture couple can flip up. I don't have this on my N90s or F6 (though I know it was an option at one time for the F6).
One thing I noticed, the 19mm Nikon F-style screw-in diopters for the finder don't allow the back to open. So, I have one of the slender ones designed just for this camera on order. The diopter is going to cost more than the camera, but of course the camera's value to me is much greater than the price I paid.
My daughter has my FM (somewhere)- which she used in high school 36 years ago if my math is correct.
Always felt that the "mirror shake" at slow speeds was noticeable compared to the F2.
Always felt that the "mirror shake" at slow speeds was noticeable compared to the F2.
I bought an FM recently. The camera and lens looks as good as new except that the built in TTL light meter isn't working.
Luckily I didn't pay much money for it.
Is this a common problem with the FM?
Anyway, I like to use an incident meter and the results are fine.
Luckily I didn't pay much money for it.
Is this a common problem with the FM?
Anyway, I like to use an incident meter and the results are fine.
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