cheapest effective lightmeter (new)

Bobby Ironsights · Jan 9, 2008

Hi, looking to pick up a lightmeter, would like to hear suggestions.

Also, can't remember, which type of lightmeter cell dies/becomes erratic after about ten years? It was a question on my photo class final exam, but I just had to guess, so I guessed selenium. If I do end up having to buy one used, I'd hate to get one of those.

sun of sand · Jan 10, 2008

selenium ..but I'm sure there are plenty that are still going strong
I was looking for a meter once and cheapest/good deal is what I look for
Picked up a gossen profisix SBC for $30 that's mint off ebay. 9 volt battery. Got lucky.

Pick up something nicer than cheapest -is a classic- and it will have already depreciated as much as it's going to
That's basically free. That's how I buy stuff.

Christopher Walrath · Jan 10, 2008

I have an old Weston meter that I got from eBay a few years ago that still works great. There is great variety available and very inexpensive to boot.

Ole · Jan 10, 2008

I use a $4 Leningrad lightmeter much of the time. It gives exactly the same readings as my far bigger and more expensive Gossen, so unless I need spot metering the Leningrad is adequate.

sun of sand · Jan 11, 2008

I was going to mention it but thought it was too cute
honestly, though

Ultimate Exposure Computer/Jiffy etc
Dead Link Removed

You should be able to pretty much nail sunny 16 through 10 ..especially if you bracket
Some meters won't go very low on the scale so if twilight/night photography is your thing you may want the gossen line
Night Night photography and the exposure computer/bracketing is your only shot

P C Headland · Jan 13, 2008

If you want something cheap. accurate and somewhat flexible, you could get a Sverdlovsk 4.

It will take any battery that will physically fit that gives 3.75-4.5 volts, as it has an inbuilt calibration feature. It has a 11 degree reflective mode, plus incident mode too. Works very well, even down to low light levels.

Mine was new (a few years old maybe, but unused) and cost around $20. Also comes with an AA battery adapter too, but this adds to the physical size.

Captain_joe6 · Feb 13, 2008

I'm going to have to toss my hat in for the Gossen Luna-Pro SBC. It's metering range is fantastically huge, its very easy to operate, and with the help of a online manual to get your mind in gear, you'll soon learn how to make it tell you pretty much anything you could want to know. I got mine off the 'bay for $75 and it has been worth every penny.

panastasia · Feb 13, 2008

Bobby Ironsights said:
Hi, looking to pick up a lightmeter, would like to hear suggestions.

Also, can't remember, which type of lightmeter cell dies/becomes erratic after about ten years? It was a question on my photo class final exam, but I just had to guess, so I guessed selenium. If I do end up having to buy one used, I'd hate to get one of those.

I have a (Horowitz modified) Pentax Digital Spot Meter that I use to calibrate my Sekonic (battery-less, "selenium", incident-light-reading) meter. The Sekonic is way cheaper in price.

Note that both meters give me exactly the same reading every time and under any situation. It's just a matter of knowing how to read them.

aparat · Feb 13, 2008

Polaris

If you want to buy new, I recommend the Shepherd/Polaris exposure meter. It will meter flash, incident, reflected, and you can fit it with a spot attachment. I paid $75 for a brand new one off eBay. Here's the B&H link.

aparat

panastasia · Feb 13, 2008

aparat said:
If you want to buy new, I recommend the Shepherd/Polaris exposure meter. It will meter flash, incident, reflected, and you can fit it with a spot attachment. I paid $75 for a brand new one off eBay. Here's the B&H link.

aparat

I have the Minolta equivalent (do everything except spot meter). I gives erroneous readings, up to 4 f-stops error, every now and then, unexpectedly.

I no longer trust those electronic wonders in plastic casings - they remind me of toys - they are toys!

Just my opinion.

Paul

Phillip P. Dimor · Feb 13, 2008

Paul, are you using an Autometer IV? There is a metal pin that is engaged when you switch light domes (from half ping-pong ball to flat disc for flash, etc) that can 'stick', thus never engaging properly and giving you some far off readings. Try taking the filter off and gently cleaning the pin with a q-tip and a bit of rubbing alcohol, exercising the pin a bit and making sure it pops up quickly and depresses easily.

I've only owned two meters, an old sekonic selenium meter that was NIB from the 50s/60s and the minolta autometer IV. The sekonic was always 2 stops off if not more. The minolta is quicker, easier to use and more accurate. I paid about $100 used and it's the best investment i've made aside from good darkroom materials.

panastasia · Feb 13, 2008

Phillip P. Dimor said:
Paul, are you using an Autometer IV? There is a metal pin that is engaged when you switch light domes (from half ping-pong ball to flat disc for flash, etc) that can 'stick', thus never engaging properly and giving you some far off readings. Try taking the filter off and gently cleaning the pin with a q-tip and a bit of rubbing alcohol, exercising the pin a bit and making sure it pops up quickly and depresses easily.

I've only owned two meters, an old sekonic selenium meter that was NIB from the 50s/60s and the minolta autometer IV. The sekonic was always 2 stops off if not more. The minolta is quicker, easier to use and more accurate. I paid about $100 used and it's the best investment i've made aside from good darkroom materials.

Philip, I haven't used it, or even looked at it, for some time now. I think it's an Autometer V. I'll check out the pin under the dome as you suggested, but I don't have a flat disk and can't remember ever removing the dome. The reading are sometimes correct and sometimes they're not. I was constantly checking it against another meter known to be accurate.

I had some old selenium meters from the 1940's-they were off a couple of stops-but my Sekonic looks brand new (I bought it used, it was in the original box w/accessories) and the accuracy of the readings is dead-nuts (or spot-on).

Jacques D. · Feb 13, 2008

Bobby Ironsights said:
Hi, looking to pick up a lightmeter, would like to hear suggestions.

Also, can't remember, which type of lightmeter cell dies/becomes erratic after about ten years? It was a question on my photo class final exam, but I just had to guess, so I guessed selenium. If I do end up having to buy one used, I'd hate to get one of those.

I have a Gossen Lunasix 3 and a Gossen Profisix, I bought them second hand many years ago and both are spot on and I use them wherever I have the time to determine exact exposure. Although I still might use bracketing, in practice this is superfluous most of the time. I also have a small clip-on Voightländer VC Meter which comes in very handy with my old meterless Leicas (III, IIIa and M2) and it is spot on as well. In my experience, built-in meters in my Nikons (F2, FM, FM2, FT2) have a light tendency to overexposure, about half a stop, while my Leicas (M6 and M7) have a light tendency to underexposure (half a stop as well); not a real problem once you know it...

Jacques

Christopher Walrath · Feb 13, 2008

Just picked up a Capital D1 from eBay.

cheapest effective lightmeter (new)

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