Cheap Film Alert

[Christiaan Phleger]

Just a heads up, Foma 200 in bulk at Adorama for 57.00. I grabbed one since I've only tinkered with it and want to see how a few developers work with it for my area.

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

Look out when bulk loading Foma 200 - the stuff is very scratch prone. But $57 for 100 feet of 35mm is a very good price in these troubled times.

 

[Christiaan Phleger]

Yeah its cheap enough for me to burn a bit trying a few developers, I had a few factory packed rolls of Foma 200 have those weird scratch lines so I know what I'm getting into.

 

[Rrrgcy]

I read Foma 200 behaves as 100. So I shoot it as 100 and develop it as if it’s 100, correct? Three rolls ordered (but backordered).

 

[notoriousLT]

ty for the heads up, haven’t spent much time using Foma. Gives me a good excuse lol

 

[Nitroplait]

I read Foma 200 behaves as 100. So I shoot it as 100 and develop it as if it’s 100, correct? Three rolls ordered (but backordered).

You want to overexpose one stop to get some shadow detail, so in reality you expose as 100 but develop "normally".

 

[koraks]

I read Foma 200 behaves as 100.

Depends on 'factors.' Exposing it at 100 will give good results in virtually all cases, so it's a safe bet. How you develop it is up to you to decide. Some people like punchy negatives, some like them flatter. So some people will expose this film at 100 and develop the heck out of it, while others will go with a compensating developer that compresses the curve and give gentle development only. It's virtually a religious choice which route you take.

If you expose at 100 and then use the normal (200) development times indicated by Foma as @Nitroplait suggests, you will get usable negatives for all intents and purposes. Can't go wrong with that approach.

 

[Heath Moore]

Depends on 'factors.' Exposing it at 100 will give good results in virtually all cases, so it's a safe bet. How you develop it is up to you to decide. Some people like punchy negatives, some like them flatter. So some people will expose this film at 100 and develop the heck out of it, while others will go with a compensating developer that compresses the curve and give gentle development only. It's virtually a religious choice which route you take.

If you expose at 100 and then use the normal (200) development times indicated by Foma as @Nitroplit suggests, you will get usable negatives for all intents and purposes. Can't go wrong with that approah

My experience with foma 400 and 100 is that you need to cut the development to get usable gradation in the highlights if you under expose from box speed. Maybe the 200 behaves differently because of the "t grain" emulsion. I definitely will try! but one roll at a time

 

[Rrrgcy]

Fast - not the film but the delivery, based on this thread, my three cans of 100’ rolls of Czech Foma 200 ordered (said to be backordered) were just delivered, free shipping (and in two big packages, what’s the sense of that) from the Chattanooga TN distribution facility. Will advise if my amateur mitts can do anything w it. Each seems sealed properly 100% w factory tape but one has that small piece of regular dollar store tape pulling the top to the base. Odd.

 

[Christiaan Phleger]

Ha well an update: film arrived and yup, tiny little black spots. Sigh. Its mostly for repaired camera testing, and my replenished developer works well for my selected EI, which also matches my reference spot meter. Sometimes not perfect is just fine.

 

[koraks]

This is on the 135? That sucks. I've got a 100ft tin sitting here in the firdge, still unopened, that I purchased a couple of months ago.