Cheap Chinese flash for Nikon film TTL?

[markaudacity]

Looks like there are several choices of flashes that do i-TTL, but are there any that do the older Nikon TTL?

 

[analoguey]

Better off buying an older Nikon Flash instead?

 

[PhotoJim]

I agree with analoguey... tons of good choices. Even high-end Nikon flashes like the SB-24, -25, -26 and -28 are pretty cheap these days and there are less expensive, still good ones like the -22 if you really want to be frugal.

 

[vsyrek1945]

Looks like there are several choices of flashes that do i-TTL, but are there any that do the older Nikon TTL?

I think the Chinese firms got into the game after i-TTL became standard.

However, there are a few reliable and reasonably priced older models on the used market that may be worth considering. For pre-DTTL (FE2/FA/N8008) vintage cameras, there's Vivitar's 3700, 4600 and 5250, Starblitz DF-Ni versions of various models and several Sunpak models. These all can be used on DTTL cameras, but won't provide the D-matrix metering, and have manual zoom heads.

I recently tried a Sunpak PZ-5000 on my N90s with a non-D AF lens and got nice results - worked just as smoothly as an SB-25.

Thanks and regards,
Vince

 

[markaudacity]

DTTL was the adaptation to no OTF metering for the D1/D100/D50, wasn't it? I shoot with an F100 and an FM3a, so I think I just need regular TTL.

What I really need to do is get an F6. ;P

 

[oneANT]

What I really need to do is get an F6. ;P

I need one too and I see there are two for sale in the classifieds right now so excuses are getting thin for both of us.

I'm itching to see what the fill flash function on the FM3a is like to use on dark winter streets like the ones we are soon have in Oz. Am not too worried about reactions because I got an MD-12 in the post yesterday and the sound of it going off will surely distract anyone from the flash of light (grin).

 

[Chan Tran]

Buy used! Either Nikon brand or other brand that do film TTL. They are cheap now! I have both Metz and Sunpak flashes that are compatible with Nikon film TTL.

 

[MartinCrabtree]

I picked up an SB-28 cheap for my F5. What a great unit! The new stuff must be incredible if this is any indication. I use it on all the cameras. Even digital. Gotta love Nikon's compatible philosophy.

 

[benjiboy]

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=a9_sc_1...ongnuo+ttl+nikon+flash&ie=UTF8&qid=1404134994 Some of them are Nikon model specific, I have 3 of the the none T.T.L. models that I use as a portable studio system with a flash meter and radio triggers and they are not only cheap but great, recycle in 3 seconds and if you wish give you an audible signal, have nine power levels, and prejudice about Chinese products aside they have for me been very reliable.

 

[Chan Tran]

DTTL was the adaptation to no OTF metering for the D1/D100/D50, wasn't it? I shoot with an F100 and an FM3a, so I think I just need regular TTL.

What I really need to do is get an F6. ;P

I think i-TTL and d-TTL are not as good as regular TTL. They are used because the problem with TTL and the digital sensor but introduce shutter lag and wasting power on pre-flash.

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

It's amazing anyone ever did well flash before TTL...

 

[Chan Tran]

It's amazing anyone ever did well flash before TTL...

Since I only own TTL flashes for film cameras so when I use my D*** I use the sensor on the flash or even manual.

 

[Chan Tran]

Since modern cameras are auto focusing and also have the focused distance information, I wonder if any of them would support GN flash mode?

 

[markaudacity]

That's how Nikon TTL works with D and G lenses in shutter priority.

 

[Chan Tran]

That's how Nikon TTL works with D and G lenses in shutter priority.

No. d-TTL and i-TTL use pre flash pulse and measure the intensity of the light falling on the meter sensor in the camera viewfinder. It will then figure out how much stronger a burst is needed for the correct exposure. GN system makes no light measurement only the distance from camera to subject and the guide number value supplied by the user.

 

[markaudacity]

Right. I'm not talking about DTTL or i-TTL, I'm talking about plain TTL. The terminology is confusing, unfortunately. Marketing buzzwords were less important to pros in the early 80s I guess?

 

[Chan Tran]

Right. I'm not talking about DTTL or i-TTL, I'm talking about plain TTL. The terminology is confusing, unfortunately. Marketing buzzwords were less important to pros in the early 80s I guess?

Not the TTL either. TTL measures the flash intensity off the film plane and cut off the flash when there is sufficient light. I am talking about the GN flash system where there is really no measurement of the light intensity but rather only the distance. Similar to manual flash but the aperture changes automatically depending on the focused distance. I am curious because this technique is old but modern camera has the ability to offer this as an option but I don't think any manufacturer is doing it. The technique has a lot of disadvantages like it can't work with either bounced flash or with a diffuser. It does have the advantage of ignoring the subject reflectance so it give black and white people the same exposure as yellow people so to speak.

 

[John Koehrer]

As in the 45/2.8 GN Nikkor. Fully manual but adjusts the aperture as you focus.

FWIW The Canon 17 Glll also has GN settings.

 

[Dismayed]

I always shoot in either manual or auto modes because I can use the same techniques with every camera that I own, from digital to large format film. YMMV.

 

[destroya]

I bought, for my F5, F4 and F100, the small nikon sb-23 for $8 shipped on ebay. great small flash for TTL use. but it has no manual controls. but still, for the price and size makes an nice alternative to my sb-800

 

[markbarendt]

SB-80 is another good unit. Use it with my F5 and F100.

If you are after balanced fill flash, then TTL is important. It is important to me to have it available because it is really great for general snapping as well as important work, just need to find the balance you like, mine is about -2/3 to -1 on flash power. The key thing for me here is to remember the word "fill", when the room/situation starts getting dark the shutter can get really slow, while the camera will make sure the exposure remains workable overall motion blur can become a real problem.

When I need to add light to the whole room/setting bounce works better, A mode and TTL are a toss-up for me there.