Changing Your Mind Half Way Through Building...

[Steve Smith]

In the last few years I have started to build a few 5x4 cameras. My problem is finishing them!

I get to a point where I realise that I could have done something a better way and get annoyed with myself.

To that end, I have now started a fourth camera based on the Zone VI design with twin focusing racks.

Unusually for me, I have done extensive drawings to see if it's what I really want. I have a feeling that I might actually finish this one!

Here are a few pictures of the base of this one:




Does anyone else suffer from this problem?


Steve.

 

[Truzi]

I've a similar problem with my Master's thesis in psychology.
As for building things, on the rare occasion I do, I try to force myself through it, convincing myself I can always build the "improved" model later. Unfortunately, I get hung in the planning stages lately, but I've found it better to get stuck there than have a bunch of half-completed projects laying around.

 

[Ken Nadvornick]

Not allowing the perfect to be the enemy of the very good is a difficult thing to do. I struggle with that all the time.

Ken

 

[Steve Smith]

I'm not really striving for perfect. I just get to a point where I say to myself "this isn't going to turn out quite how I wanted it" or "it would be better if I did it like this".

I tend to start things by building one piece then building the next piece to fit. Very unlike me, for this camera, I have made extensive CAD drawings and I only started to cut wood once I was happy that it was all going to work out.

I will probably finish one of my previous efforts as it was going to be a horizontal 5x7 with a 5x4 reducing back. I have already made the front and back for it and I have the bellows as that was the reason for making it. I have decided to simplify that one and build it as a monorail... but that will be after I finish this one!


Steve.

 

[cliveh]

Why not build your designs out of cardboard and then when you make one you are happy with, build the real thing?

 

[Steve Smith]

I often make a part from MDF first to check the fit but I haven't made a whole camera from MDF first... although I have thought about it.


Steve.

 

[cliveh]

I often make a part from MDF first to check the fit but I haven't made a whole camera from MDF first... although I have thought about it.


Steve.

Cardboard would be easier than MDF, and it's only when you see the thing in 3D that you can appreciate how the ergonomics will work. When I designed the Zen pinhole camera I made the whole thing out of cardboard before discussing the design with the wood craftsman who actually made it. Even then he built several prototypes out of ply before we agreed on the final design.

 

[Ian Grant]

My problem is I have 2 or 3 parts camears with focus beds like that and I've just bought a box full of Graflex parts as well. Some will have to sit and wait while I make a 5x4/6x17 camera from bits. I've everything needed to make a Crown Graphic style camer awith a Graflex focus bed, rangefinder, and most importa a modified Super Graphic front standard that fits the track so potential for plenty of movements.

So I've set my parameters, a camera that can use 65mm to 210mm lenses with good movements a rotatable back that will shoot 5x4 and 6x17, I want a slim style 6x17 back and found a great DIY example 2 weeks ago. Oh and it must be easy to use hand held.

Ian

 

[Steve Smith]

a camera that can use 65mm to 210mm lenses

I have the same range. I like the Zone VI design with separate front and rear focusing racks rather than sliding the front standard to a position on the rack to suit the lens as is the case with most designs.

My 5x7 half built camera will also have a 6x17 option (one day!).

I want a slim style 6x17 back and found a great DIY example 2 weeks ago.

Can you share this?


Steve.

 

[HTF III]

Finish what you started. No excuses. Then move on to the next. Rule 1 in model airplane building. Or else you end up with a houseful of 1/2 built airplanes cluttering up the place. For the good or bad of it, you HAVE to finish it.

 

[Steve Smith]

But I don't build model aeroplanes (to use the correct English word!)

I consider the half finished stuff to be practice and learning!


Steve.

 

[Ian Grant]

Steve, I found the back via Flickr not sure how to get to the complete set again. I liked the aluminium construction of the film holder part.

Ian

 

[Steve Smith]

That looks good. Here is a link to the photostream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/adbieber/6986561380/


Steve.

 

[LJH]

I have reams of diagrams, thoughts, designs etc. Got to pull my finger out and get to building!!

 

[Steve Smith]

I have reams of diagrams, thoughts, designs etc.

Every piece of paper within an arm's reach on my desk at work has ideas and drawings scribbled all over it!


Steve.

 

[LJH]

Well, I've sourced the rack'n'pinions. That was a bit of a sticking point.

Now just have to get a 15amp power point/socket/outlet I stalled for my new table saw and a router to go on to my new router table and I'll get into it.

Oh, and work out how to anodise aluminium.

 

[LJH]

Back on topic, however; I was wondering if you could comment on a change in design I've made halfway through this:

I've decided that geared front focus is a bit of a waste. I've decided to have a manually sliding front. Similar in principle to the Chamonix-styled rip off design, but infinitely positionable via a slide (not pre drilled holes). I have an idea on how to lock this off as well.

I figured that I've never used both front and rear to focus, and being 8x10 the draw will be possibly too long to reach the front with long FL lenses. So, why not have a system where you roughly position the front and use geared focus on the rear?

Your thoughts?

 

[Steve Smith]

Well, I've sourced the rack'n'pinions. That was a bit of a sticking point.

Where are you getting yours from?

I'm making my own rack with work's CNC router (which cuts all the wood for me too!) and I am using Mod 0.8/32 pitch pinions from model racing cars.


Steve.

 

[Steve Smith]

I figured that I've never used both front and rear to focus, and being 8x10 the draw will be possibly too long to reach the front with long FL lenses. So, why not have a system where you roughly position the front and use geared focus on the rear?

Sounds workable to me.

Have you seen Jim Fitzgerald's Chamonix style 8x10 on the LF forum? http://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?98802-New-8x10-camera-build/page5


Steve.

 

[E. von Hoegh]

Finish what you started. No excuses. Then move on to the next. Rule 1 in model airplane building. Or else you end up with a houseful of 1/2 built airplanes cluttering up the place. For the good or bad of it, you HAVE to finish it.

I once worked on a single airplane for 9 years. Fortunately, it wasn't mine and I was getting paid pretty well. Wasn't a model, either.

When I was building radio gear, I learned to build a rough draft, debug it, then build the finished version.

 

[pen s]

I have the build your own bug, but I live in a small apartment so no power tools except a compact scroll saw and hand drill. My wood 4X5 contraptions have to be simple in the extreme. I try to work with hobby plywood and pre cut dimensional wood strips as much as possible. This usually limits the project to a box camera although I did pick up an old 4X5 kit built camera (not a Bender) that was sold by Calumet in the early 1980's. It was a basket case that had to be rebuilt but I managed to come up with a camera that has front movements at least. Now I just need a lens that will allow for movements.

 

[Steve Smith]

When I was building radio gear, I learned to build a rough draft, debug it, then build the finished version.

I have started to build my own desktop CNC router. Some advice I read on a website was to make your first router any way you like as long as it works then use it to make a really good one.

I'm hoping to bypass the first stage by using the one at work to make mine!


Steve.

 

[LJH]

Where are you getting yours from?

I'm making my own rack with work's CNC router (which cuts all the wood for me too!) and I am using Mod 0.8/32 pitch pinions from model racing cars.


Steve.

Ronson Gears here in Oz. Lookng at 0.8x4mm brass set up. They initially offered me steel ".8x8mm. Too bloody heavy!

I'm also looking at using some Carbon Fibre rods to reduce weight and stiffen the extensions, as well as some CF sheet inserts in the base board.

 

[Steve Smith]

I have the build your own bug, but I live in a small apartment so no power tools except a compact scroll saw and hand drill. My wood 4X5 contraptions have to be simple in the extreme. I try to work with hobby plywood and pre cut dimensional wood strips as much as possible.

If I was in that situation, I would look at having plywood laser cut by a steel rule die manufacturer. This is how the Bulldog kit was made.

I don't have much in the way of woodworking tools so I make cameras using techniques which I would usually use with metal and plastics. I don't have the facilities to plane and thickness wood so I buy it in already thicknessed to 9mm. Then I draw up the parts on CAD and CNC cut them.


Steve.

 

[paul ron]

I had a similar problem when I was building my 3rd log cabin. ummmm very similar!