Chamonix 045H1 / F2 - A Call for Info...

[DavidClapp]

Hello everyone.

I have a 45F1 and I am thinking of upgrading to either the F2 or the H1.

http://www.chamonixviewcamera.com/45H.html
https://www.jobo.com/en/chamonix/c45f-2-chamonix-4x5

I have long had a disappointing issue with the front standard and swing movement during operation of my F1. I critically focus the camera, applying swing and tilt with my loupe, only to find the image is subtly out of focus side to side. This error is caused by a lack of friction where the front standard attaches to the base, because the surfaces are so smooth.

Attaching filters, cocking the shutter etc after focusing, cause minute swing movement that drifts critical left / right focus, which is noticeable when scanned at high resolutions.

It's here where the problem lies, the surface where the front standard meets the base.

I contacted Hugo Zhang at Chamonix and he said that had 'realised this issue' with the F1 and produced the F2 with other upgrades. The front standard now had an friction matting, but its difficult to see from any of the online pictures how this is applied. Can anyone confirm this? Youtube channel 'Nicos Photography Show' says there's nothing else other than knob configurations, so I am eager to speak with anyone who has the F2.

This leaves me to consider the H2, which primarily interests me because I can leave it set up in my bag with the lens attached. I don't walk massive distances with this camera and I feel the constant assembling and reassembling of a folding camera to be more of a hinderance than anything, and the 300g weight addition is negligible.

You can see the H1 swing lock looks much more substantial, but the operation of the camera confuses me and there are no online videos I can find to show its operation.

1. Why are there two rail lock knobs, one each side?
2. Is one for general unlocking and the other for critical focus rather than left / right duplication?
3. The asymmetric tilt of the F1 / 2 runs through guides, this seems more hit and miss with the H1.
4. I read on another forum that attaching a cloth to the rear is more problematic...

Any help in this conundrum gratefully received!

 

[andrew plume]

Hi David

Sorry to hear about your difficulties

I have a gut feeling that this issue has been discussed over on 'The Large Format Photography Forum' where you're more likely to find a larger amount of members who could help

regards

Andrew

 

[Doremus Scudder]

Can't you just get some self-adhesive cloth or rubber or whatever and make yourself a friction pad of some kind? It seems like a lot easier fix than buying a new camera...

Doremus

 

[John Koehrer]

^^^What he said. I'd use some light trap material You can get it through Microtools who have a european site. I believe as thin as 1mm.
With that, can you remove the standard and access the bottom of the tightening screw?

 

[DavidClapp]

^^^What he said. I'd use some light trap material You can get it through Microtools who have a european site. I believe as thin as 1mm.
With that, can you remove the standard and access the bottom of the tightening screw?

http://www.micro-tools.de/en/Camera-Restauration/Light-Trap-Material-Flocking-220mmx250mm.html

As in this? What exactly is it and how do I attach it? Sorry but I am confused as to what it is...

 

[DavidClapp]

Hi David

Sorry to hear about your difficulties

I have a gut feeling that this issue has been discussed over on 'The Large Format Photography Forum' where you're more likely to find a larger amount of members who could help

regards

Andrew

Well it certainly isn't the excellent Photrio search engine... I spent 20mins on there going round in circles and I cant find any post about this issue...

 

[shutterfinger]

If the surfaces are too slick to hold position have you tried buffing them with 00 or 000 steel wool or extremely fine sand paper to roughen them slightly?

 

[John Koehrer]

I'd use contact cement on one surface only. Gluing both is very permanent s single coat can be removed. If the
flocking is thin enough even a double faced cellophane tape should work because the pressure of the two plates
would help holding it in place.

 

[MarkL]

Hi David,
I'm a new owner of an F2, I've never seen an F1, but on the F2 there is indeed a thin rubbery surface on the bottom of the front standard which should solve your problem!
Mark

 

[Terry Breedlove]

I have the F1 and really like it because it is so compact and lightweight. I tend to hike into far off rugged places so those were very important attributes for me. I also always know where I am going and what I am shooting because I scout long before showing up to shoot. Setting up is really very quick and easy. If I am running and gunning it shoot my Hasselblad. Roll film is a huge advantag in those cases. I check my f1 over carefully before firing the shutter making sure everything looks true. Looking at what they did with the bottom of the standrd on the F2, I am sure you could use some tape or rough the surface up with sand paper. I would try that before buying another camera. However the H1 does have the ability to keep the lens attached and maybe that is reason enough for you to go that route.

 

[Terry Breedlove]

Damn that was long. Winded . In short try using tape on the bottom of the standard and see if that helps. Easy to take off and clean the residue if not.

 

[locutus]

FWIW, the tape solution is what Shenhao seems to use, theres tape like thus under the swing/shift mechanism on my TZ45-IIA and its pretty smooth.