Ceramic Tiled Darkroom Sink any experiences

[Todd Barlow]

Anyone built a sink using large format ceramic tile? If so any thoughts on how it turned out, what to do what to avoid?
Thanks in advance
Todd

 

[M.A.Longmore]

.
Avoid using ceramic tile to fabricate a darkroom sink.
If that is unavoidable, then use an epoxy grout . . .

.

 

[Rick A]

You're better off making a cement lined sink, and using a good sealer. Ceramic tile is great, but unless you use an epoxy grout it will eventually leak.
I thought about it for a couple of minutes, I have a counter top lined with 20x20 tiles, maybe if you build the sink with exterior plywood and epoxy it for a lining, set your tiles in the wet epoxy.

 

[Roger Thoms]

Why do you want to use ceramic tile? My second thought is that I’ve done ceramic shower pans which used a water proof membrane underneath the ceramic tile. So the answer is certainly yes you could build a ceramic tile sink that was completely water tight. Please excuse the poor cell phone picture as it is from about 10 years ago. Kind of hard to see but this is the 24 hour water test for my inspection.

You might also research fluid applied water proof membranes for ceramic tile applications. I’m not real familiar with these but I am seeing tile installers using these products.

Roger

 

[voceumana]

Two problems with ceramic tile:

1. The grout can absorb chemicals, and it will get stained.
2. The tile can crack, and thus leak and thereby absorb chemicals.

 

[MattKing]

That would be a really heavy sink.

 

[BrianShaw]

Why do you want to use ceramic tile? My second thought is that I’ve done ceramic shower pans which used a water proof membrane underneath the ceramic tile. So the answer is certainly yes you could build a ceramic tile sink that was completely water tight. Please excuse the poor cell phone picture as it is from about 10 years ago. Kind of hard to see but this is the 24 hour water test for my inspection.

You might also research fluid applied water proof membranes for ceramic tile applications. I’m not real familiar with these but I am seeing tile installers using these products.

Roger

I like that membrane for pans. Easy and effective.

There are several other different waterproof systems, mostly for shower walls: Kerdi, Durock, Hardie ... and paint-on barrier like red-guard or the blue alternative. Although not the best approach for a pan, I’ve seen water tests where they passed. For a sink, though... I’d consider Durock and Redguard.

a really good grout silicone sealant is recommended. Annual (or so) reapplication will prevent moisture seepage.

 

[btaylor]

Uh I know this is too simple, but why not use the membrane and skip the tile? That’s what I did. Built a plywood base. Works a treat, no issues. Easy, cheap.

 

[mshchem]

Look for used sinks. Be ready to drive. I have 2 big sinks. 10 foot Arkay stainless, free delivered to my driveway, 8 foot Kreonite fiberglass I bought 40 years ago for 30 bucks. You can build a nice sink out of plywood.
Tile would be bad. Very heavy, no advantage over a high tech paint on good plywood. Keep the sink shallow.
Craigslist, salvage stores, graphic arts print shops etc. Most of this gets scrapped because no one wants them.

 

[M Carter]

I'm likely to be building a large sink this summer. But it occurs to me, a darkroom sink isn't like a boat or a whisky barrel or a bath tub. It doesn't have to hold water for a significant amount of time, and it doesn't have very much depth of water in it - it's probably never plugged or stopped. It's really more to catch spills and give you a working surface with high sides to catch splashes and make rinsing it all out (and cleaning trays and so on) easier on your floor and clothes. I'm assuming quality plywood; hold it together with polyurethane glue and screws; any exposed plywood edges get oak or hardwood strips solidly glued to them, with no gaps and really good crack sealing. Extra credit, design it in a way that water flows to the drain, and possibly throw in something that keeps trays level while maintaining a slope to the drain.

I expect that properly coating it with porch paint and whatever sort of primer is best for porch paint on wood, and you'll have a sink that will serve you for years. I know many people use 2-part epoxy coatings as well, some use fiberglass, some poly, some use spar or marine coatings. Maybe you want a paint or coating that can expand/contract with the wood. But it doesn't seem remarkably worrisome, though there could be aspects I haven't considered. It seems like some people over-engineer them since the word "sink" puts us in a "kitchen sink" mindset, a vessel that may have to hold water in quantity for some time.

 

[MattKing]

Some do use sinks that under some circumstances have continually flowing water in them - for processes like toning where having a number of rinse trays is really handy.

 

[Fraunhofer]

Plywood, urethane glue and epoxy is what I used and it seems to hold up fine. The observation that it is not a boat is relevant: mechanical stresses are nil in comparison and immersion is temporary and without any pressure head. The chance of catastrophic failure seems slim and you are permanently in the dry dock, ie fixing issues is straightforward.