CDS meter replacement for Minolta Autocord?

[DLM]

Is it possible to replace the cell in the meter? I've bought the correct batteries for mine, but the meter itself must be pretty much dead because it doesn't move much at all when on. The battery check button causes the needle to move to where it's supposed to, but it doesn't move under normal conditions.

 

[CGW]

Measured against the time, trouble, $ and frustration, you might be ahead to shop for good used incident meter. Older Sekonics like the 398, 318, and 328 are plentiful, rugged, accurate and affordable. They'll give more consistent results than your 'Cord's elderly selenium cell. Personally, I'd skip anything that takes a PX625 mercury cell, whatever the survivalists say about replacements, adapters, etc.

 

[DLM]

I do have a nice Sekonic incident meter that I usually carry with me, and I just picked up a nice Weston Master II yesterday. I would just like to be able to carry the camera only, if possible. Sunny 16 works fine the majority of the time, but there's a few times it would be nice to have the on camera meter. Using the handheld meter is a pain w/ the autocord because I haven't ponied up the ridiculous amount of $$ to get a strap with the proper connection to the autocord lugs. The thing that got me wondering about the replacement was that I saw an ad here on APUG for a Weston meter for sale that had the cell replaced. I know those are selenium cells, but I was thinking that there may be someone out there who does the replacement of the meter cells.

 

[CGW]

My mistake, DLM, for saying your 'Cord had a selenium cell. A friend recently had no luck getting a meter cell replaced on a Yashicamat. If you're in CA, Ken Ruth might be worth contacting:

http://www.baldmtn.com/AINFOSHT2.htm

I'd try for a workaround on a strap--that's just too much of a brick to fumble with strapless. The 'Cord's meter wasn't wildly accurate. With film and processing getting pricier and sometimes harder to source, vintage meters with questionable accuracy and linearity seem a bit of a false economy.

 

[DLM]

Thanks for the info for Ken, I'll try contacting him. I know it's a long shot on getting it done, but it would be nice to know if it can, and how much it would cost. I've considered trying to rig something up with some strong string to attach a regular strap, but just haven't got around to spending the time on it. It's definitely a heavy camera to be fumbling around with without a strap, which is why it hasn't seen nearly as much use as I thought it would when I bought it. I'm so nervous about accidentally dropping it that I often choose another camera to take along with me if I plan to shoot handheld.

 

[jmcd]

Just for two more options:

Ed Wong at Whilton Camera replaced the CDS cell in my Canon F-1. It might be worth giving him a try: 626.796.4037.

I would also try Essex: 201.933.7272.

 

[SWphoto]

Another option, in Beaverton, Oregon, is Karl Bryan (karl.kathy at verizon.net). He's taken great care of mine, and specializes in Autocords. Highly recommended.

 

[John Koehrer]

Gordy's has a "universal strap that will work with the camera.
For the CDS stop at the local Radio Snack & see what they've got similar in size. It will take some fiddling to adjust it, but worth a shot.
Perhaps a donor camera? Minolta 101, cheapy rangefinderm,etc.

 

[Dan Daniel]

FYI, the older strap lugs with a simple slot on the top and the newer strap lugs with the posts are interchangeable. When you talk to people about working on the meter, ask about a pair of old strap lugs. A simple swap.

If you are handy with machining or know someone, it wouldn't be hard to drill and tap the hole in the upper post, then install a piece of threaded rod with a hole for an O-ring on the end. Some loctite and it should be solid.

There are many places for a meter to go wrong- wiring shorts, needle bearing, etc. Not just the CdS cell. I'd check the overall circuitry before swapping out the cell itself.

 

[John Koehrer]

What Dan says is true. To test the cell, unsolder one leg from the circuit & check it with an ohm meter. The resistance should change when it's exposed to different light levels. For the meter & coil MOMENTARILY apply a voltage to the meter connections and if the coil is intact and needle is free it should peg.

 

[DLM]

Thanks for the advice. I need to brush up on my electronics knowledge. The last time I dug into something like that was in high school. Is an ohm meter going to be something that is available on a multimeter? I've been needing to buy one anyway, so I might go ahead and get one.