Andrew O'Neill
Moderator
The title says it all...
CatLABS 80 II Film Testing Fun Has Begun...Part One!
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That packaging will not work for 120 film!
NO! It should be ISO 80 not IE 80.
NO! It should be ISO 80 not IE 80.
From the CatLABS webpage
"Our CatLABS X FILM 80 MKII is an improved formulation of our classic film"
There is no indication what the improvements are. The previous version was generally considered to be Shanghai GP3. I think CatLABS even admitted as much. I haven't seen any mention of improvements to Shanghai GP3, so there is a little bit of a mystery.
"An ideal “daylight” film, offering versatility and unique characteristics not found in any other currently made film on the market today"
This is essentially the same claim CatLABS made with respect to their "new" CatLABS X Film Pro 320 in 35mm and 120, and we all know how that panned out.
"Our CatLABS X FILM 80 MKII is an improved formulation of our classic film"
There is no indication what the improvements are. The previous version was generally considered to be Shanghai GP3. I think CatLABS even admitted as much. I haven't seen any mention of improvements to Shanghai GP3, so there is a little bit of a mystery.
"An ideal “daylight” film, offering versatility and unique characteristics not found in any other currently made film on the market today"
This is essentially the same claim CatLABS made with respect to their "new" CatLABS X Film Pro 320 in 35mm and 120, and we all know how that panned out.
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From the CatLABS website:
"CatLABS X FILM 80 has an IE of 80 ISO"
Whatever that means.
The box of 4x5 CatLABS film shown in Andrew's video also says "IE 80".
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CatLABS is talking out of four sides of its mouth. I am waiting for them to call the film color and black & white film on the same sheet of film which is also sheep skin and canvas.
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Andrew O'Neill
Moderator
Gentlemen. Please do not turn this thread into a "lets bash CatLABS" thread again. Can we just focus ( 
) on the film, and be thankful that a film has been made available to us, even in large format!
I sure would like CatLABS to chime in here and explain what an IE is. Could it be a typo? One things for certain. It is not an ISO 80 film. As I stated in the video, it's more like a 32-40...for me, anyway.
I was quite pleased with this film, so much so, I purchased a box of 8x10 to see how well she Alt. prints.
) on the film, and be thankful that a film has been made available to us, even in large format!I sure would like CatLABS to chime in here and explain what an IE is. Could it be a typo? One things for certain. It is not an ISO 80 film. As I stated in the video, it's more like a 32-40...for me, anyway.
I was quite pleased with this film, so much so, I purchased a box of 8x10 to see how well she Alt. prints.
I decided to set aside my disapproval of Omer's business practices and bought a box of 8x10, with the specific goal of making negatives for salted paper printing, (exposed at 80ASA and developed the film in PMK @ 2:4:100 for 11 minutes, 72F) and it works well for my needs. My assessment at the moment is that it lacks some separation in the highest values when processed this way, but the proof was in the salt print.
Bear in mind this is just a shite iPhone snapshot, so it doesn't do a very good job of illustrating the finer values in this print.
Salt Print Nr. 1 (Link)
I think this will work out fairly well for making alt process negatives. I have not yet done a direct comparison with my go-to salt negative film (FP4+), but I will undoubtedly do so soon. I haven't decided if this is a film I'm going to adopt as a regular for my salt print work or not, but the fact that its $70 cheaper than FP4+ makes it worth consideration.
PS: it comes in the flimsiest of cardboard "boxes" (more like an envelope, really) so I transplanted the film into an empty Ilford box immediately. Its double bagged, but the bags material is thick and awkward to deal with - another good reason to move it into an Ilford box.
Bear in mind this is just a shite iPhone snapshot, so it doesn't do a very good job of illustrating the finer values in this print.
Salt Print Nr. 1 (Link)
I think this will work out fairly well for making alt process negatives. I have not yet done a direct comparison with my go-to salt negative film (FP4+), but I will undoubtedly do so soon. I haven't decided if this is a film I'm going to adopt as a regular for my salt print work or not, but the fact that its $70 cheaper than FP4+ makes it worth consideration.
PS: it comes in the flimsiest of cardboard "boxes" (more like an envelope, really) so I transplanted the film into an empty Ilford box immediately. Its double bagged, but the bags material is thick and awkward to deal with - another good reason to move it into an Ilford box.
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Rather than make a mountain out of mole hill, if you don't like how Catlab describes their film buy elsewhere, or if you are like me, buy a box or roll test it to decided if it is usable. It may or not be my cup of tea, regardless others may find it a good film. The more choices of film even from small companies like Catlab mean more competition and lower prices.
I still have some of a box of 4x5 of the original version left. Bought it mostly for equipment testing and getting myself off the ground, and it's generally fine. My main problem with it is it seems to have really low accutance, at least in HC-110. I thought a lens of mine was a dud until I shot some expired Delta 100 with it. Huge difference!
I have to say I was really impressed with the Original Trailer
The full length feature left me a little flat, however. Maybe it was the "Euro Film Noir" ethos that threw me off. Brad Pitt as Batman was an interesting novelty, but Catwoman was too slow and sedate for my taste. There was also too much emphasis on the Bruce Wayne mansion, and Robin was nowhere to be seen.
The high point was definitely the getaway scene in the batmobile.
... and where the heck were the donuts?
The full length feature left me a little flat, however. Maybe it was the "Euro Film Noir" ethos that threw me off. Brad Pitt as Batman was an interesting novelty, but Catwoman was too slow and sedate for my taste. There was also too much emphasis on the Bruce Wayne mansion, and Robin was nowhere to be seen.
The high point was definitely the getaway scene in the batmobile.
... and where the heck were the donuts?
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Andrew O'Neill
Moderator
My doctor is a subscriber and he told me if he sees me eating another doughnut in my videos, he won't be so gentle the next time he checks my prostrate...
Robin and I had a falling out.
The doughnuts were there... in the air, so to speak.
My doctor is a subscriber and he told me if he sees me eating another doughnut in my videos, he won't be so gentle the next time he checks my prostrate...
Robin and I had a falling out.
The doughnuts were there... in the air, so to speak.
Andy,
I was given a very wise tip from a friend of mine. He had a female doctor, and I ask why he liked her. He said the female doctors have much smaller fingers than male doctors. Yup, I now have me a female doctor, but I always make sure she trims her nails close before my physical. May I suggest you get a lady doctor. You can then have your donuts and eat them too.
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Andrew O'Neill
Moderator
I'm really enjoying this series. It's fun to be "doing" photography vicariously. Can't wait for the next installment.
I bought a package of the 8x10 X Film 80 II specifically to evaluate as an option for salted paper printmaking negatives (higher contrast, much greater density to print a very long POP tonal scale).
I exposed negatives at 80 ASA and developed as I would if it were FP4+ for salt printing: 11-12 minutes at 72F in PMK 2:4:100 and the negatives looked very good. The print shown here was made with a negative that received half a stop more exposure (over the 80 ASA neg) and developed at just 10.5 minutes.
My evaluation of X Film 80 II is that it is very capable of producing good negatives for alt printing processes - if it can make a good salt negative, then it can likely do very well for Pt printing, Van Dyke Brown, Cyanotype and others. It has slightly more base + fog density than FP4 handled the same way, but only a tiny bit more: slight enough that it prints through to Dmax with relative ease. Printed on Bergger COT 320, paper sized with gelatin and Ammonium chloride. Toned with Gold thiocyanate toner. (The paper is NOT this yellow - its an artifact of the poor lighting and iPhone behavior)
I exposed negatives at 80 ASA and developed as I would if it were FP4+ for salt printing: 11-12 minutes at 72F in PMK 2:4:100 and the negatives looked very good. The print shown here was made with a negative that received half a stop more exposure (over the 80 ASA neg) and developed at just 10.5 minutes.
My evaluation of X Film 80 II is that it is very capable of producing good negatives for alt printing processes - if it can make a good salt negative, then it can likely do very well for Pt printing, Van Dyke Brown, Cyanotype and others. It has slightly more base + fog density than FP4 handled the same way, but only a tiny bit more: slight enough that it prints through to Dmax with relative ease. Printed on Bergger COT 320, paper sized with gelatin and Ammonium chloride. Toned with Gold thiocyanate toner. (The paper is NOT this yellow - its an artifact of the poor lighting and iPhone behavior)
This, by the way, is the color of the dye that came out in the pre-wash. I expect this means X 80 II is either a Foma or Shangahi product, repackaged.
My doctor is a subscriber and he told me if he sees me eating another doughnut in my videos, he won't be so gentle the next time he checks my prostrate...
Robin and I had a falling out.
The doughnuts were there... in the air, so to speak.
... and you're going to take that threat lying down?
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Andrew O'Neill
Moderator
I like the green colour, but it isn't entirely removed in the fixer (which makes it permanently green... so a pre bath is necessary...not an issue but I don't like green coloured fixer... Maybe only on St. Patrick's Day! 
).. It eventually washes out in a tray of water. The pink seems to only go away in a HCA (developer = Xtol 1+1).
).. It eventually washes out in a tray of water. The pink seems to only go away in a HCA (developer = Xtol 1+1).Thanks, I am pleased with the result and will continue to explore the film for salt print making. Alt process people might want to take a look at it!
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Andrew O'Neill
Moderator
Paul, that's a lovely image! Happy to hear that CatLABS 80 II worked for you. I'm pretty sure it'll be good for other Alt. processes, particularly Carbon Transfer... which I will test eventually...
Paul, that's a lovely image! Happy to hear that CatLABS 80 II worked for you. I'm pretty sure it'll be good for other Alt. processes, particularly Carbon Transfer... which I will test eventually...
Thanks Andrew. I hope to hear more from you in reviewing this film, especially in terms of alt print processes. I bet it'd make great Platinum and Kallitype prints.
I like the green colour, but it isn't entirely removed in the fixer (which makes it permanently green... so a pre bath is necessary...not an issue but I don't like green coloured fixer... Maybe only on St. Patrick's Day!
Since I am using this for making salt negs, using double strength PMK, I always do a pre-soak for 2-3 minutes, and that seems to take 99% of the dye out.
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