Carmel. Travel tips wanted.

[Daniel Grenier]

Carmel & Napa Valley. Travel tips wanted.

My wife and I plan to fly to San Francisco in March and will likely split our time in Carmel and teh Napa Valley for this 10 day trip (camera-less trip, this time). We've never been to California so we're looking forward to it.

Any recommendations for a good Inns or B&Bs?
Good restaurants?
What are the must-sees around the regions?
Any shows or photo-related events we can't miss?
Other suggestions?

Thanks

PS What's the difference between Carmel and Carmel-by-the-sea ?

 

[Monophoto]

Carmel is about three hours south of the San Francisco Airport. You might be better off flying into San Jose - it's an hour closer and my experience is that flights are sometimes less expensive.

Carmel and Monterrey are nice areas to visit. There are a lot of things to see and do in the area. Photographically, there are at least three nice galleries in Carmel. There are also a large number of galleries showing other forms of art, and they can be inspiring to photographers.

If you are not staying in Carmel, your first challenge will be finding a place to park. There is on-street parking, but finding a spot can be a problem unless you arrive early in the day. There are also some public lots - be prepared to pay to park. The commercial district is very compact, so having parked, you can reach all of the downtown area by walking.

Carmel has a number of fine restaurants. It doesn't have many cheap or fast restaurants - fine dining is part of the life style, so chill and enjoy it.

My sense is that Monterrey is more commercial. It's certainly more spread out. I think there may be galleries there but we've never found them. There was a branch of the Ansel Adams Gallery there, but it closed a couple of years ago.

Monterrey has a public pier with a large parking lot (you have to pay to park). There are a number of excellent restaurants on the pier, all specializing in seafood. It's a relatively short walk from the parking lot into the main commercial district.

There is a secondary area in Monterrey that you will want to visit - the old Cannery Row area. This is being yuppified - there are a number of shops and restaurants in the area, as well as the Monterrey Aquarium. I think there are some lots in the area, but on-street parking is more feasible here.

Places to visit in the Monterrey Pennisula area:
Carmel Mission - a beautiful old mission church.
Point Lobos State Park - just south of Carmel on Rt. 1. This is where Weston did a lot of his work.
Steinmetz Museum - in Salinas, about 30 minutes drive from Carmel

Now - wineries. There are several wineries in the Monterrey-Carmel area. You will find literature in visitors centers that include brochures on wineries in the area. They are convenient, but they aren't as plentiful or as spectacular as those in Napa. And they are more spread out - be prepared to do some exploring of back country roads.

Napa is about a five hour drive from Monterrey - it's north of San Francisco. Well worth visiting, but you will have to allow several days to get there and to do the tours. By the way, if you do go, the Wine Train is a nice excursion and the luncheon is fabulous.

Our son lives in Sunnyvale - that gives us an excuse to visit the area frequently. We have found that focusing our stay in the South Bay area provides ultimate flexibility to travel north to Napa or south to Monterrey, staying overnight in either location if our plans require that we have more time in the area. That also gives us freedom to spend time in Sausalito, Marin Headlands, and San Francisco.

We enjoyed our visit the Lick Observatory outside San Jose. The view is spectacular, and its interesting to a technoweenie. But the drive up Mt. Hamilton is 20 miles of very narrow, twisting two-lane country road - so SLOW DOWN, plan to take a full afternoon for the trip.

The main highway from San Francisco to Monterrey is Highway 101 - this is an eight-lane freeway and is the road to take for speed. If you are interested in a more scenic approach, try Route 1. This is the coastal highway and passes through several small towns are are interesting places to visit.

 

[Jan Pietrzak]

Daniel,

Carmel and Carmel by the Sea (same place, it just sound better) then you have Carmel Valley just south (John Sexton is in the Valley). And then you have the Highlands. Point Lobos, Highlands Inn and Weston Homested and further south Big Sur. I think the Post Ranch get $2,500.00 for a cottage for the week end. Up north of Monterey on Hwy 1 Moss landing and a good Sea food place it looks like and old warehouse looking place. You eat with the locals at big tables. Pacific Grove is inbetween Carmel and Monterey. See if you can find the Chouder House on Sunset your basic blue and white building. Again you eat with the locals. If you want to spend some money try the Road House around Monterey.

If I think of any more I will get back to you

Jan Pietrzak

ps No need to bring a camera just go to Camera West in Monterey I am sure that you can but some thing.

 

[reggie]

As for Carmel, there are actually some reasonable motels there that are basic but clean. You can contact the Chamber Of Commerce for a listing. I have stayed there for about $70 per night just about 2-3 blocks from the main drag. There is a nice little motel on the west end of the main street that is white and it has a large tree grwoing in the courtyard. Last I knew, it was $99\night. Prices may have gone up some since I was there last. I never had a hard time finding parking in Carmel, but you may have to walk 4-5 blocks to the downtown area.

In Carmel, there is the Weston gallery - a must see. There is also Photography West Gallery. Both have a lot of nice work, especially the Weston Gallery. There is no end of shopping, eating and galleries in Carmel.

Monterey used to have the Ansel Adams Gallery, but it closed. The Russ Levin Gallery is there but you may need to call in for an appointment.

-R

 

[Bighead]

Some of this will have already been said, but: I agree with the SanJose comment.. Much cheaper and easier to fly into.

I stayed in Seaside... Just outside of Monterey... Much cheaper.. Monterey has Cannery Row, which is a shopping, eating area.. It houses the Aquarium, which is a great place... Good food, great Ice cream joint that is very picturesque and the Ansel Gallery... Monterey also has the pier where there is great smoked salmon and fresh breads.. Very cheap.. Other junk food places and chessy tshirt shops but I did bring my son there every night for ice cream...

Carmel has the actual Carmel shopping area.. Very pricey, very posh... Good food. 17 mile drive is around there (good pictures). There is a nice working lighthouse as well as San Miguel (an old church).. Very cool stuff.

Driving is not bad.. Parking isn't bad either. There is a used camera joint walking distance from Cannery Row. I'll go through my journal and see if there is anything I missed.

edit: Oh yeah, if your on the road, going South.. In between Point Lobos and Big Sur is a place to pull off the road and there is a nature walk (sort of) that has stairs that goes down to the beach........ Some of the most picturesque things I have ever seen..... Of course, I didn't have MF then... Just my 35mm.

 

[Curt]

I have stayed at the same place that Reggie described and I can't think of the name but it's close to Galleries and the main street.

Absolutely don't miss going to Point Lobos. If you don't plan to go there then don't even bother going to Carmel. It's just south of Carmel, very close and is undescribable. If you drive down the coast highway you will see the Pigeon Point Lighthouse about half way down.

Did I mention the Redwood National Park? Missing that would almost be a crime. Trees as old as time, BC; enough said.

Curt

 

[Mateo]

Here's what I would check out in this area:

Monterey Museum of Art (good collection of photography on permanent display and check the website there's supposed to be some photo collection opening in January that should still be up)

Highlands Inn (hosts shows by Ansel Adams Gallery people)

Weston Gallery

Point Lobos if you have to, but the real deal is Garrapata beach and creek

Old Coast Road if it's not too much of a muddy mess

Tide pools in Pacific Grove (maybe someone will be surfing at Boneyards)

Blackstone Winery in Gonzales does allot of photo shows, current show is photo but I don't what'll be up in March

If you are a fan of Steinbeck you might want to check out the museum in Salinas

The Carmel mission is cool, but if you're into missions check out San Juan Bautista and maybe drive down to San Miguel (My favorite) and also the San Carlos church in Monterey

Food:
Tarpy's Road House
Sardine Factory
Charthouse
Abalonetti's
Whaling Station
Phil's Fishhouse
The Fishwife
Katie's (good cheap breakfast in Carmel?)


Send me a PM if you want more of the skinny on this area

 

[Mark Feldstein]

Greetings from Pebble Beach (wedged in somewhere along the coast between Carmel (by the Sea) and Pacific Grove, actually. We have Carmel BTS, and Carmel Valley. And Caramel candy available at Fisherman's wharf in Monterey which has 3 wharves. Fisherman's is the tourist wharf. Just to the south is the Coast Guard wharf and boatyard with the Monterey Marina. To the North is the commercial wharf which to me, is much more interesting to photograph than the other 2.

B&B Places to stay. A few good ones adjacent to Lovers Point in Pacific Grove which is only about 7 minutes from downtown Carmel. Green Gables Inn, I hear is quite nice and reasonable with ocean views. The Andril Fireplace Cottages in Asilomar is great. Family owned, individual cottages with fireplaces, kitchens and cooking utensils, free firewood, in the forest with hot and cold running deer, about a half mile from the beach (and Pebble Beach). Reasonable weekly rates. (I shot their brochure a while ago). Remember you're planning to visit in our "off-season". Bring a jacket , sweater, and rain gear btw. It's been raining quite a lot the last several weeks.

Carmel has a lot of quaintness happening, but a bit too touristy for my wife and I. During the week, parking isn't too bad. Weston gallery has a lot of their stuff and Ansel Adams work. There's also the Carmel Center for photographic Art next to the Sunset Center. For restaurants, it depends on what you'd like to eat. Seafood?? You want tourist or non-tourist places? Italian, California, burgers? Or fast food. Drop me an e-mail and I'll give you my list of locals hangouts. Mateo's list I think is ok, but the Factory is really off the charts price wise, lotsa fish, pasta, rich sauces, huge wine collection. Katies is good for breakfast in Carmel but they've raised their prices out the roof. I prefer Breakers Cafe in pacific Grove on Forest. Local constructions guys hangout. Whaling Station is ok, steaks and prime rib. Fishwife is excellent, but the Monterey Fishouse is just the best. Reservations for that one are helpful as at Fishwife and the Sardine Factory.

The Carmel Mission is nice, historic, behind Mission Beach which is nice this time of year. NO CAMERA !!!! HOW COULD YOU !!!!!!!!! When the surf gets rolling you can get some wonderful dynamic ocean shots along the beaches in Pacific Grove, Asilomar, and of course, Pebble Beach along 17 mile drive. You might avoid the $8.75 gate fee by telling them you're going to the grill at the lodge for lunch or Spanish Bay.

If you want a spectacular coastal view, drive south on highway 1 to the Point Sur lighthouse. The California Park Service on Garden Road can give you the hours when they're giving free tours. The view from the rock is incredible. And, there are lots of turnouts on the way to take in views. Stop at Highlands Inn in Carmel highlands for lunch, formal dinner or just a beer. nice views too. The other lighthouse here is a Pacific Grove on Sunset in the middle of the PG municipal golf course. Oldest working lighthouse on the west coast. Tours are given there too. North of Santa Cruz is Pigeon Point lighthouse on highway 1. Nice to photograph.

Oh, and the Monterey Bay Aquarium is remodeled with a lot of new exhibits. At the end of Cannery Row and David Avenue. Camera stores near the Row? I can't think of any anymore. Camera West? I prefer B&H or KEH. (Russ Levin is a friend of mine). Myricks on Fremont street if you decide to bring a camera and run low on film. Gassers in San Francisco.

Anything else I can suggest just drop me an e-mail. Take it light.
Mark Feldstein
"feldstein@attglobal.net"

 

[Daniel Grenier]

Thanks all very much for the good info.

The plan's in place and reservations made. We'll be in St Helena for five days and then down to Carmel area for another five - the second week of Feb.

After touring wine country, we'll come down and stay at the Seven Gables Inn in Pacific Grove (Higlands was booked). We've made reservations at Grasing's with more to decide on when there. We're also dining at the Master's of Food and Wine event at the Highhlands Inn (which so happens to run the week we're there... how convenient) featuring Chefs like Daniel Boulud, Charlie Trotter etc... (the AA and EWs of food).

Aside from the usual must-see in the area, we might well take a day trip to Yosemite hoping for the rain to let up by then (and to allow us to put the top down on our rented convertible !).

Looking forward to it and thanks again folks for the tips.

PS .... still debating whether I will take my 8x10 along.

 

[photobackpacker]

Nah, don't bring the camera. It has been proven that no photos of any merit will ever be taken or produced in that area. I think there is something in the water......

Monterey has it's own "Fisherman's Wharf" but there is a restaurant one pier to the north of there that is worth the investment. It is fantastic for lunch and great (if pricey) for dinner. It is called The Sand Bar and Grill. It is built halfway between the surface of the pier and the water (you walk down a flight of stairs from the wharf to get in.) You can often enjoy watching sea lions swimming in the marina as you have lunch.

 

[Jon Shiu]

In Napa, be sure to check out the Volakis gallery in Yountville and Mum's Winery photo gallery. In Carmel, search out the Josephus Daniels gallery. If you get tired of fine dining and the touristy stuff, there is a comfortable family run Thai restaraunt in Carmel.

Jon

 

[Daniel Grenier]

A couple more questions, folks.

We'll actually be in Napa and Carmel Feb 10 to 23. What can we reasonnably expect in terms of weather. Is the rainy season winding down by then ?

Also, is a one day trip to Yosemite (from Carmel) a reasonable exercise? This, in terms of having enough time to see Bridal Veil, El Capitan and half dome maybe?

Thanks again guys.

 

[Jon Shiu]

Feb. can be stormy sometimes, some years dry. It's usually nice between the storms, though. Yes, go see Yosemite Valley. It is worth the drive.

Jon

 

[Kerik]

Daniel,

Carmel to Yosemite and back in one day will be lots of time on the road. Especially if the weather is rainy or snowy. Consider spending a night in Yosemite, if you can. The Yosemite Lodge is ~$100 a night in the winter. Maybe more, it's been a couple years since I've stayed there. Winter is the best time to be in Yosemite, IMO.

 

[User Removed]

Take your 8x10. You will be sad that you did not!


Also, you will want to spend more then 1 day in Yosemite. Its too far of a drive to only spend one day there.

Make sure you go to the weston gallery and gallery west on Carmel.

Point Lobos is always a fun place to shoot. Make sure you go out towards the coves and beaches, as many people over look that area and there is more images to me made out there...then on the point area.

 

[Mark Feldstein]

Oh man Bruce, I totally forgot about that one even though I tend to go there every Tuesday. Yeah since the new owners took over some time ago, the food has gotten even better. Bring a bunch of quarters for parking meters on the wharf. Entry to Wharf II is at the corner of Del Monte and Figueroa streets. Avoid the diner next to the Sand Bar, however. No bueno.

Hey Daniel, skip Napa and explore the wineries in Carmel Valley and south Monterey County like Soledad, Greenfield, etc. Masters of Food and Wine at the Highlands? I've been a couple of times, nearly by accident. I'd rather get a pizza from Gianni's on Lighthouse in Monterey.

 

[Daniel Grenier]

...... Masters of Food and Wine at the Highlands? I've been a couple of times, nearly by accident. I'd rather get a pizza from Gianni's on Lighthouse in Monterey....

Huuuuhhh! :confused: Do tell, Mark. Do tell.

This year, one of the Chefs for the Friday night dinner is Charlie Trotter. My wife flew me/us to Chicago a couple years back on Valentine's day for the express purpose of having dinner at his restaurant. We had a memorable meal so we figured we'd go "have dinner with him" again while we're in Carmel.

So what's the story, Mark?

 

[Daniel Grenier]

Well. Just came back from our first California trip.We had a really great time and truly enjoyed our stay. Lots of terrific wine and food, excellent Inns, great weather, very nice people. Very impressed, we are !

Managed to see several fantastic photographs at galleries in Carmel and bought myself a very nice Roman Loranc photograph and met the man in the process... very nice guy and really talented photographer. I now understand why so many photographers live(d) in the Carmel area. What a gorgeous area to set up shop (but at these outrageous real estate prices, I can't see too many new photographers moving there, though!).

Thanks again, all, for the good tips and info. Can't wait to return and next time I'm driving down, taking all my gear and staying several weeks.

 

[jimcollum]

Roman's an incredible guy. a truck driver before becoming an established photographer. he's living in Modesto (California central valley).. where homes are *much* more affordable.

i own a large copy of Franciscan Church (Dead Link Removed ). Whenever someone comes out with a digital 'replacement' for silver prints, i bring this print out. it's turned a couple back to silver

jim

 

[Daniel Grenier]

.....i own a large copy of Franciscan Church (Dead Link Removed )...

Very good choice, Jim. They had one of the 20x24s of this one at Photo West for $7000. He is sold out in all other sizes. Also note that Russ Levin has one of Roman's "Private Road" in an odd 18x33 size going for a whopping $45,000 (on ebay). Its a real shame Roman won't see a penny of that $45K though and he probably sold it for just a few hundred bucks to boot. Such is the market!

 

[jimcollum]

he's one of my favorite... it's also good to see someone who makes a good living with their landscape photography. the last i talked to him, he was having a hard time keeping up with printing of the images that had been sold. not a bad place to be i guess