Does DAS/gelatin reaction have gaseous by-product?
I suspect some sort of vacuum pump would be the best solution.
The bubbles are apparently notorious with DAS. It even creates bubbles if you just dissolve some DAS in water and expose it to UV! Apparently there are ways to process DAS tissue without the bubbles being an issue, although I'm not the first to observe them.
Frankly, the bubbles are the lesser of the two issues, the poor adhesion being the more puzzling one.
That shouldn't be necessary. Many people do carbon with DAS and don't use a vacuum pump apart from perhaps using a vacuum contact frame, but that's only in the dry part of the process anyway.
The bubbles are apparently notorious with DAS. It even creates bubbles if you just dissolve some DAS in water and expose it to UV! Apparently there are ways to process DAS tissue without the bubbles being an issue, although I'm not the first to observe them.
Frankly, the bubbles are the lesser of the two issues, the poor adhesion being the more puzzling one.
Bubbles may be the culprit behind delamination though, so the two issues might be related
But apparently that didn't help enough. Perhaps I just soaked too briefly (2 minutes as per Sandy King's guidelines). I might try again later today.If you are only doing single transfer you can soak the tissue in cold water before mating for a while to allow the bubbles to escape off the surface. Using a gloved hand you can run over the surface to try to release the bubbles before mating. Care must be taken not to abrade the image particularly in the lightest toned image areas
..... It might have been Franck Rondot... I think he also has a video on Youtube where he does this,...
* Soaks the exposed tissue in water, while brushing the bubbles away
* Hang up to dry
* Re-soak (briefly?) and then mate with final support.
the YT vid
turn on the transcript.
No, not in any way; the hardened gelatin matrix is very robust. Even tiny features remain preserved despite this.
Btw, the extended drying time shown in the video is absolutely unnecessary; it really only takes ca. 5 minutes for the N2 to dissipate away. The process is really fairly quick if the tissue has already been made.
(I just like the idea of being able to optimise the sensitiser concentration on the fly)
Okay, but you can split these steps so that you can have a short soak as well as good offgassing. To that end, after exposure, dip your exposed tissue in water. This can be anything between a few seconds up to a few minutes, depending on what works best for you. Currently I mostly use 30-60 seconds.I think I'm running into the bubble issue because I'm trying to do really short underwater mating times because I don't like it when the paper and the tissue are slippery against each other
No, these are different parameters. Your initial soak is independent from the offgassing of the nitrogen, but if you use a long soak, much of the offgassing will happen during the soak. However, it continues as you let the tissue rest after a brief underwater soak. This is where the squeegeeing comes in, as it limits the amount of water that the tissue will absorb.am probably not even waiting the five minutes you suggest (how hydrated the tissue is really should affect the rate of the de-bubbling I'd imagine).
Coming back to the problem of the stain: keep in mind that there's really no good way to do a DAS transfer directly to an absorbent paper without stain. The stain is basically impossible to remove. Calvin reports good results with some variants of Hahnemühle inkjet paper that apparently allows the stain to be cleared. Personally I have tried several types of paper and none of them would allow complete removal of the yellow stain afterwards. This is why DAS carbon is usually practiced as a double transfer, where you first transfer to a non-absorbent plastic support (PET or PP film), then clear out the stain, and finally transfer to a gelatin-sized final support.(my paper is 300 g and I'm only doing A5 prints so maybe I wouldn't run into the slipping with larger prints or more floppy paper.)
Contrary to when using dichromate, there's virtually no benefit to this when using DAS. In part it's because it just stops working once you get below a threshold quantity, and in part it's because there's only a marginal effect of DAS concentration on contrast. A third reason is that one of the key advantages of DAS is that you can have 'ready to go' tissue, but this drops away if you sensitize as you do with dichromate.
Okay, but you can split these steps so that you can have a short soak as well as good offgassing. To that end, after exposure, dip your exposed tissue in water. This can be anything between a few seconds up to a few minutes, depending on what works best for you. Currently I mostly use 30-60 seconds.
Then squeegee the tissue on a worktop and cover it so it doesn't receive any additional exposure; if you work in a room free of any UV light, you can just leave it uncovered as well. Wait 5 minutes or so. By this time, the N2 bubbles will be gone.
Now proceed to mate your tissue with the temporary support. This only needs to take a few seconds. If your initial soak of the tissue is short, the tissue won't have absorbed a lot of water and it will not be very slippery. Of course, during mating there is always a thin film of water between the tissue and the support, that you squeegee/roll out between them. During this time you will need to hold them together firmly if you want to maintain alignment. This is inherent to the process. For multi-layer work, you really need to use some kind of registration setup for this with pins through both tissue and support to keep them in place.
No, these are different parameters. Your initial soak is independent from the offgassing of the nitrogen, but if you use a long soak, much of the offgassing will happen during the soak. However, it continues as you let the tissue rest after a brief underwater soak. This is where the squeegeeing comes in, as it limits the amount of water that the tissue will absorb.
Too long initial soak times result in a weak tissue that doesn't adhere all too well. But if your process is otherwise solid, you have a pretty decent process window/margin.
Coming back to the problem of the stain: keep in mind that there's really no good way to do a DAS transfer directly to an absorbent paper without stain. The stain is basically impossible to remove. Calvin reports good results with some variants of Hahnemühle inkjet paper that apparently allows the stain to be cleared. Personally I have tried several types of paper and none of them would allow complete removal of the yellow stain afterwards. This is why DAS carbon is usually practiced as a double transfer, where you first transfer to a non-absorbent plastic support (PET or PP film), then clear out the stain, and finally transfer to a gelatin-sized final support.
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