photo8x10 said:Hello everyone,
I'm reading the Sandy King's book, and I Think it's amazing book to learn this print technique. I've never print in carbon and my next step will be to start it.
Now I have some questions:
1) I'm looking for gelatine in Italy and I don't find it, so in Internet I've foind only 250 bloom gelatin, If I understand well this number is the hardener of it higher number is more water it can be absorb. In his book Sandy explain lots of formula with 175 blooms gelatin, What difference in term of measure(percentage or weight in formula)?
2) About a pigment, I would like to do monochrome print, and not with strange colours(now I'm not interested in them), I would like to use black pigment. What are your advices? From Artcraft chemicals(where I usually buy my chemicals) in list there is black Lamp, I Think it is a pigment, is anyone use it? and if yes Are good to print in carbon?
Thanks for your reply, and your advices.
Best
Stefano
As for pigments, a good monochrome pigment is lampblack in tube watercolor. You can also use other pigment in liquid dispersion forms, such as those meant for mixing in the industrial paint trade. I do not recommend powder pigments as it is time consuming to grind them.
photo8x10 said:Hi
today I tried to make my carbon tissue, a little amount, and for my first experience I used a food gelatine and a Maimeri watercolour.
I did 500 ml of solution, I used 40 gr of gelatine(I don't know bloom) and 10 gr of watercolour(more and less half of 15ml tube)
I followed the Sandy King's book, and I think I did a "good" job.
I tried also to cot it in a paper with terrible result, only 3 sheets are almost good.
I would like to know if the amount of watercolour I used is a good point of start? Because I 'm not sure it's the right amount.
And what's the best method to coat my sheets? I did it without a square.
Best
Stefano
Hi Stefano,
Describe exactly how you coated and the problems you encountered. Include the following if you can remember or wrote it down. 1) room temperature and humidity, 2) temperature of glop when you poured it on the paper, 3) how much glop you poured for a given print size, and 4) how did you spread the glop to the edges of the paper. Did you use a frame? And, did you remember to level the coating surface?
The amount of watercolor pigment you used sounds about right to me.
Sandy
photo8x10 said:Hi Sandy
I think my problem are somethings about temperature.
I wrote it down your question, I usually take note of some parameters when I print with AZO or PT/PD.
1)room Temperature 26°C and Humidity 55
2)Temperature of glop 39°
3) I used for my 5x7 print an amount of glop 20ml
4)I used a glass rod I spread to the edges in a movement up/down slowly enough but I didn't fell solution very sticky. I think I use the rod in a bad way for this kind of paper preparation.
I didn't use a frame, but It will be my next step to prepare.
I leveled my coating surface.
Thanks for your advices
Best
Stefano
photo8x10 said:Sandy,
Thanks a lot, in my next coating try I'll change somethings after your advice.
I haven't understand well what's a flexible magnetic sheet, I haven't seen.
what material is built it? so Maybe I 'm able to find it here in Italy. I'm sure my next step I'm building my frame, but to spread the glop what do you use? I have a beautiful steel rod, I can use it to spread the glop or better use my fingers or other to spread and level the glop in the frame? if i remember the glop should level a bit by itself.
It's a pity that your workshop are so far to me and now I can't come, maybe one day....I can do it.....
Best
Stefano
sanking said:Stefano,
The kind of flexible magnetic sheeting I use can be purchsed from McMaster Carr. It is a plastic sheet that has magnetic attraction. You cut a frame in the sheet of the size you want for your carbon tissue. Then, to use, you place a piece of final support (paper or plastic)bou on a piece of galvanized steel, then place the flexible magneitc frame over the paper. This creates a frame with a dam on every side which contains the glop while warm.
You can buy this product from http://www.mcmaster.com/
Do a search on flexible magnetic sign material. You want material with no adhesive and about 0.5mm to 1.0mm thick.
You may find this at places where outdoor signs are made. This is one of the many uses of this material.
Sandy
photo8x10 said:Hi Sandy,
I surfed in your site, there are lots of things, I think I will find somethings of similar to mcmaster site, I add here the link, in English, because this seller is in Italy, so easier to me for buy.
the link is:
http://www.magnetta.com/enhtm/magneticfoils.htm
Can you watch if is a similar to your material? (more and less)
Thanks
Stefano
nworth said:I haven't tried carbon, but I hope to soon. Therefore, this question is truly blind. Hunt makes a line of water soluble block printing inks. Has anyone tried these as pigments for carbon or gum processes? Any hints?
photo8x10 said:Hi sandy,
I ordered magnetis sheet, and I found it nearby my home. Now I've a little doubt about the transfert.
I a single transfert I have to coat my paper with gelatin hardened, but in a double tranfert, the intermediate should be coat by gelatin? The final support in double transfert is coated with a thin layer of gelatin.
Best
Stefano
Sandy,sanking said:For single transfer the final support could be fixed out photographic paper, or a paper coated with hardened gelatin.
For double transfer, develop the image on plastic, then when dry transfer it to a sheet of paper coated with a layer of unhardened gelatin.
Sandy
donbga said:Sandy,
Does your book cover the details of double transfer? I've tried the B&S tissue (carbon black) and transferred to fixed out photo paper. After it was all said and done I can't see much difference in the results than one might expect by just printing directly on silver gelatin. Perhaps other colors would give a different impression.
Sam Wang told me that in his opinion double transfers give the most beautiful results. But what does he know?
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