Can't see the grain

[Terry Breedlove]

I need a new much better grain focuser. I can't see the grain and have to find lets say a tree against the bright sky to focus on. Looking for the contrast between the darker tree and sky not the grain. So far I do pretty good but honestly my eye sight is old and not so good and it is a struggle. I primarily shoot Fuji acros 100 iso film with my 6x6 Hasselblad. Normally I stop my lens down two stops from the wide open position. My grain focuser is an old cheap one and I am wondering if a new much better one will help to find the grain ? Or any tips actually to make this easier. Oh and I have Trifocal eye glasses which is another whole set of trouble. LOL

 

[darkosaric]

Well, using Acros in 6x6, and if you make not too big prints - this is normal.
I use this focuser (tried a lot of them, this one is best for me):
https://www.fotoimpex.de/shopen/darkroom/paterson-grain-focuser.html
Grain is visible in 35mm in 18x24cm prints with Paterson focuser.

 

[wiltw]

Look for a Microsight, which is 25x; there is one on eBay for only $9!

 

[pdeeh]

Is it adjusted properly?
I have a 40 year old Paterson grain focuser that cost me nothing from a junk box, and I have a lot of Acros negatives, and never have a problem seeing the grain "pop" into focus.

 

[M Carter]

Microsight focusers are all over eBay, great prices, and excellent tools.

I have the Micromega but that was pricey and only needed for big prints.

 

[Terry Breedlove]

Thank you guys I am going to buy that Paterson.

 

[Terry Breedlove]

Is it adjusted properly?
I have a 40 year old Paterson grain focuser that cost me nothing from a junk box, and I have a lot of Acros negatives, and never have a problem seeing the grain "pop" into focus.

Yep it is but that is a problem because it keeps going out of adjustment. I have a good Paterson somewhere that I last used in 1997 but it is boxed up and I just can not find it. So I am going to buy another. This one I have been using came with the 4x5 enlarger i bought about 6 months ago and I have no idea how he could focus with that thing.

 

[Sirius Glass]

The best that I have found is the Peak Grain Focuser.

http://www.peakoptics.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=38

 

[Wayne]

I have an extremely difficult time focusing Ektar even with a Microsight. Doesn't help that its medium or large format.

 

[Arklatexian]

I need a new much better grain focuser. I can't see the grain and have to find lets say a tree against the bright sky to focus on. Looking for the contrast between the darker tree and sky not the grain. So far I do pretty good but honestly my eye sight is old and not so good and it is a struggle. I primarily shoot Fuji acros 100 iso film with my 6x6 Hasselblad. Normally I stop my lens down two stops from the wide open position. My grain focuser is an old cheap one and I am wondering if a new much better one will help to find the grain ? Or any tips actually to make this easier. Oh and I have Trifocal eye glasses which is another whole set of trouble. LOL

I have found that my grain focuser works much better as does my seeing since I had cataract surgery. I did not get bifocal cataract surgery and still wear "reading" glasses for close work. Maybe you should try another focuser because I think you should really see the "grain" in the negative to be sure you have it in focus. I did not realize how bad my vision had gotten until AFTER the cataract operation and the procedure was less expensive than I had imagined it would be........Regards!

 

[chip j]

If you have a glass carrier, you can focus a scratched negative, then put the real neg in. Or get a Leitz 11c--autofocus!

 

[phelger]

Fine grain is a pain With Ilford PanF or Delta100 I have also difficulties seeing the grain. But it is there! I think it takes some practicing to discover the pattern of grain and obviously in 120 format it is even harder to see. The scratched negative (emulsion side) is a good idea. Scratch an exposed negative that may hlep you to see the grain pattern
Peter

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

I need a new much better grain focuser. I can't see the grain and have to find lets say a tree against the bright sky to focus on. Looking for the contrast between the darker tree and sky not the grain. So far I do pretty good but honestly my eye sight is old and not so good and it is a struggle. I primarily shoot Fuji acros 100 iso film with my 6x6 Hasselblad. Normally I stop my lens down two stops from the wide open position. My grain focuser is an old cheap one and I am wondering if a new much better one will help to find the grain ? Or any tips actually to make this easier. Oh and I have Trifocal eye glasses which is another whole set of trouble. LOL

If you're printing 120 or 35mm, position your negative between frames. Use the clear spot between the frame and the negative to focus. The sharp line is useful in focusing.

 

[BMbikerider]

The best that I have found is the Peak Grain Focuser.

http://www.peakoptics.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=38

I will go along with that. I am not sure what the model I have is but it is possibly the top of the range - is that the 2000 model with the long mirror? This is so you can tilt the focussing loup to check if the grain is sharp in the extreme corners. I know it is quite a heavy casting and very well made.

 

[winger]

I have a microsight grain focuser and it works well for me. I shoot a decent amount of Acros in 120 and it's the toughest to see the grain of all the films I shoot.

 

[Mainecoonmaniac]

Get a good grain focuser. I used a cheap one for years and they work great in the center of your image. But when you try to focus out towards the edge of your easel, you'll get vignetting, I bought a Peak grain focuser and it's a much better tool.

 

[cowanw]

I still stand beside the Magnasight. (pardon the pun)

 

[MartinP]

When you get a working focus-magnifier there should be a focus adjustment, and an adjustment lock. Without using eyeglasses, move the focus adjustment so that the grid/line/reticule in the magnifier is in focus. This may be easiest to do in normal room lighting -- don't try to do it with an enlarger-plus-negative as the light-source because your eye will try to focus on the image, rather than remaining fairly relaxed. When the adjustment is made, use the locking screw to fix it in place. Check that it is still correctly adjusted after locking the setting.

If the range of adjustment is not enough to focus the grid/line/reticule in the magnifier, take it and your eyes to the optician and they will be able to chop down a cheap plastic lens to fit to the focus-magnifier OR use a camera-eyepiece correction-lens to achieve the same thing. This situation would be extremely unusual though.

When using the focus-magnifier, push your glasses up out of the way. Focus the enlarger without adjusting the focus-magnifier, let your glasses back in to place, lock the enlarger focusing-stage and carry on printing.

 

[ic-racer]

Many good tips here. Most especially to obtain a Peak 1. Anyone motivated to perfect projection printing in this day and age should "beg, borrow or steal one."

 

[Patrick Robert James]

If I were you Terry I would get the largest magnification grain focuser that is available, whatever that is, since your situation is particularly difficult. As long as your enlarger is aligned (preferably with a laser) you really only need to be able to focus in the center and they all are capable of that. I find it easiest to focus through Magenta light as well, but everyone is different. You might want to experiment with that. I have also experimented with focusing without my glasses as well as with and haven't really found a good compromise. I have the most consistent result by relaxing my eye before adjusting the eyepiece. I find that with my older eyes trying to focus on the reticle can be problematic and inconsistent otherwise. I use a Micromega which is the precursor to the Peak I believe and it is a great help, although I also own a Paterson and a Microsight. I would say the Microsight is superior to the Paterson and it is quite a bit taller as well, and they have made even taller ones though I forget what those are called. The Micromega is the one I use on a daily basis though.

Hope that helps you.

 

[Kilgallb]

Get a good grain focuser. I used a cheap one for years and they work great in the center of your image. But when you try to focus out towards the edge of your easel, you'll get vignetting, I bought a Peak grain focuser and it's a much better tool.

Grain focus devices work only dead centre of the image. If you focus at the edge, especially on large prints the centre might be out of focus.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Grain focus devices work only dead centre of the image. If you focus at the edge, especially on large prints the centre might be out of focus.

The only grain focuser that I can use near the edge is the Peak grain focuses. The other only work in the center.

 

[MattKing]

The Hocus Focus works well in the corners.

 

[BMbikerider]

If you don't have the ultimate focus finder - the Peak 2000 which I find indespensible.

BUT!

I also have one of the Patterson tall grain focussing devices and if you want to check the grain away from the centre of the image all you have to do is tilt the whole focusser towards the centre and this has the same effect as the Peak finder. Whilst not perfect, it is a good subsitute when making larger prints from 35mm when it can be a bit of a stretch when trying to look through the eyepiece of the Peak Finder and focus at the same time.

However if you have a very good enlarging lens, say a Rodagon or Schneider APO type these are almost as sharp at the edge/corners even when wide open and this very slight deficiency will be rectified quite easily when you stop the lens down. The light from my LPL7700MX model is so good even for a 12x16 colour print from 35mm I have to stop down to F8 or even F11 to get an exposure where I can assess if things are going right.

 

[M Carter]

If you don't have the ultimate focus finder - the Peak 2000 which I find indespensible.
However if you have a very good enlarging lens, say a Rodagon or Schneider APO type these are almost as sharp at the edge/corners even when wide open and this very slight deficiency will be rectified quite easily when you stop the lens down.

Seems to me the reason for the Peak/Micromega is more about enlarger alignment than lens corner softness?

If you're going to pay $140-$200 for a grain focuser, you probably have a solid lens, after all! (I use my Micromega to verify alignment at the grain level).