Canonet QL17 GIII CLA?

samhuwyler · Jan 5, 2016

Hello everyone

I bought a black Canonet QL17 GIII for a few bucks. It's not in a good condition. It has fungus, both inside the lens and inside the viewfinder, and the aperture blade seems to be stuck. I can stop it down, but it won't open up again. I searched the web and found out that all this can be fixed with a proper CLA. I don't want spent a fortune to let it get fixed so I figured to do it myself.

Do you guys know where I can find a good instruction how to disassemble it and what I should watch out for?

Cheers from Switzerland
Samuel

David Lyga · Jan 5, 2016

Actually, a lot can be done by you. The thin ring around the lens can be unscrewed (first, clean the threads with a damp cloth!). Then the logo ring can be removed. Then the front element can also be unscrewed. Just remember the orientation of everything that you remove.

The second element can be removed also by unscrewing the black metal ring around it. This is difficult to unscrew as there are no spanner slots. I take a robust pair of scissors and put a small wad of duct tape on each knife and then carefully tune counter clockwise on that black ring until it loosens. (I have even resorted to drilling tiny holes on each side of that black ring!) The aperture blades are governed by a very nimble but weak spring; thus, if there is the slightest bit of oil on the blades those blades will not reopen. Take a tiny screwdriver and prod the blades WHILE THE SHUTTER IS COCKED (the aperture blades will NOT reopen when shutter is UNcocked). Make certain aperture is set at 2 or 1.7.

There is too much to relate to by mere typing but you get the idea. - David Lyga

trythis · Jan 5, 2016

The lens/aperture/shutter speed mechanism on these is a difficult thing to tackle. The black ql17 giii go for big bucks $400 for a nice one. I would send it in or sell it as is and buy a silver one that works. Or, buy a silver one with good glass and learn on it then switch the glass to the black one if you are able to do the work. I have photos I took of one that I worked on. I got it working but sold it since it was not something I enjoyed using.

https://goo.gl/photos/YdR8Fj5bWXTF1Xme7

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samhuwyler · Jan 5, 2016

Thank you both very much.

I think i'll gonna try to fix it myself. If it goes wrong, I just lost a couple bucks and I'll get a silver, working one.

Whats the best way to clean the inside of the lens?
And how do i clean the aperture blades?

Cheers
Sam

trythis · Jan 5, 2016

People will tell you to flush it with lighter fluid. I used to do that but in the end, the dirt and oil comes back. For an effective cleaning of aperture blades the whole thing needs to be disassembled cleaned and put back together dry. The cam plates, gears and all the other little moving parts need to be lubricated with an incredibly small amount of oil after they are cleaned.

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Kirks518 · Jan 5, 2016

I've refurbished/CLA's a number of GIII's, and it's fairly easy. You will need a spanner wrench and a basic set of jeweler's screwdrivers, but otherwise I found it to be a straightforward camera to work on.

Ken Nadvornick · Jan 5, 2016

Just so you are going into a Canonet QL17 GIII DIY repair/CLA with some knowledge beforehand, you may wish to see the photo in the first post of this thread:

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

The lens blades are bottom center. Also note that this is just a partial disassembly of the lens portion of the camera. Significant subassemblies remain.

I've repeatedly read that one of the biggest issues with pulling apart this camera is that parts tolerances are absurdly tight. Sometimes so much so that reassembly becomes a significant challenge. I've never opened one up, so I can't say for certain. But that's what I've read again and again.

Not sayin' it isn't doable. Just sayin' go at it with eyes wide open...

Ken

David Lyga · Jan 6, 2016

Cleaning the blades can be done as follows. (But make certain to fire shutter and move aperture before reassembling in order to ensure that there is no liquid left. A hair dryer comes in handy for removing liquid) :

If there is an imperceptible amount of oil, simply take a soft, clean tissue and put a drop of lighter fluid on it and wipe. REMEMBER that the aperture will not spring open unless shutter is cocked and aperture is set to a low number like 1.7 or 2. Do NOT set it at auto.)

If there is a large amount of oil, then that becomes a task. Removing the whole lens/shutter assembly is not that hard (turn the spanner nut on the outer ring of the rear element (from the back of the body, of course) CLOCKWISE to loosen. BUT ... doing this you have a major problem: the wiring from the body to that assembly is VERY short, meaning that you will be able to remove it only about one inch! Besides, putting it all back requres amazing dexterity so I do not recommend doing this UNLESS you wish to sever BOTH meter and X Sync functions! In shear desperation I have done this and ended up with a fine working camera without the aforementioned two important functions.

Flushing the assembly sounds reasonable but that, again, introduces a major problem. That lighter fluid will, indeed, also flush the helicoid releasing yet more ugly oily grime onto those sensitive blades. Instead, your probable best option is to remove not the assembly but, rather, both the front and rear elements (the rear element spanner nut from the back of the camera, through the film aperture gate, turns normally, hence, counter-clockwise in order to loosen). You then can tediously use CLEAN tissues to clean what must be cleaned on those sensitive blades. - David Lyga

BrianShaw · Jan 6, 2016

Kirks518 said:
I've refurbished/CLA's a number of GIII's, and it's fairly easy. You will need a spanner wrench and a basic set of jeweler's screwdrivers, but otherwise I found it to be a straightforward camera to work on.

You are much more talented than am I. I tried that once and made a nice box of GIII parts.

David Lyga · Jan 6, 2016

Kirks518 is technically correct and removal of the lens elements is rather straighforward. That said, what I said previously is also correct. Removal of that lens/shutter assembly from the body might be a one way ticket to hell because of the extremely short wiring. On the other hand, removal of the top for cleaning of the VF is very simple. - David Lyga

Kirks518 · Jan 6, 2016

I should be more clear. I don't do a complete disassembly. I remove the front elements down to the shutter, and then I clean the shutter & aperture blades as needed with a number of assorted chemicals as needed. I usually just use cotton swabs for the oil/cleaner removal, but I have gone into light flushes. I do remove top and bottom plates, clean, adjust, (and possibly resolder if needed) as necessary. I also completely disassemble the back and remove all light seals and replace. I don't get too crazy for the disassembly, just enough to improve it's current operational (or non-operational) condition.

A note on light seals; there is a small 'O' shaped light seal in the bottom plate where the rewind/multi-exp button is. Don't forget that one as well as the ones you can see.

samhuwyler · Jan 8, 2016

Thanks everyone for your help.

So, I think I gonna try it.
What tools do I need?

Cheers
Sam

David Lyga · Jan 8, 2016

Sam. for a 'spanner wrench' I use an old pair of very pointy scissors and watch my hands carefully so I do not get stabbed in the process! You also need a set of tiny screwdrivers, lighter fluid, clean, soft tissues, and more than anything else, patience. Be also aware that you could very well completely break the camera and if you saw my graveyard of parts you would be frightened more than any horror movie could cause such fear. Take it easy and always write down the procedure so that you will not forget how to put things back. KEEP ALL PARTS SEPARATED SO THEY DO NOT GET MIXED UP! - David Lyga

BrianShaw · Jan 8, 2016

Patience... lots of it, a bar of soap, and a box for the parts.

David Lyga · Jan 8, 2016

Ditto, patience is usually in too short supply. - David Lyga

Why are you up so early, Brian?

BrianShaw · Jan 8, 2016

I may live on the West Coast but keep East Coast office hours. Aren't you wondering what the bar of soap is for? It's for washing out the mouth after the string of profanity that generally accompanies hobbiest repair efforts. Ha ha ha. Hope the New year is going well for you David.

David Lyga · Jan 8, 2016

True, Brian, that bar of soap should be borne, not barred. - David Lyga

samhuwyler · Jan 8, 2016

Thanks for the help.

It seems like I can gather all the Items I need rather quickly.
I'm properly gonna give it a shot on Sunday.

Wish me luck on my Journey!^^
I'll report back as soon as I'm done.

Cheers
sam

aoresteen · Jan 8, 2016

I'd send it in for a CLA. Or find a non-working silver one to practice on and for spare parts for the black one.

samhuwyler · Jan 11, 2016

OP reporting back.

Hello everyone,

I've done CLA and it went alright, I guess.
The Logo Ring got pretty wracked but that's just a cosmetic issue.
I'm currently shooting a test roll.

Thanks everyone, especially David, for your help!

Cheers
Sam

Canonet QL17 GIII CLA?

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