Sticky shutter at EOS
Nano Burger gives in
„Manage Your EOS Camera’s Sticky Shutter“
www.instructables.com
a guide on how to clean stuck shutter blades in a Canon EOS.
The reason for the sticking is a small damper under the vertically running shutter slats, which decomposes over the decades.
Nano’s method is the silver bullet, I describe here a supplement with tools or an alternative in terms of solvent and medium for absorbing the sticky damper residue.
Situation with the Canon T90
This problem already affects the T90 as the predecessor of the EOS series.
Therefore, Nano’s method can also be applied to „The Queen of the FD system“.
What the situation in the T90 looks like on site, I have described here after dissecting a T90:
(German)
My conclusion was that if this spot under the shutter is accessible, the problem can be solved simply by cleaning.
However, due to the complex construction of the T90, the shutter can only be reached after massive (and always risky) disassembly, especially of the electronics (flexible circuit board).
Therefore, this way is ruled out, especially if you want to clean several specimens, since this problem affects more and more T90s over time.
Pointed probe, blotting paper and acetone
Since disassembling a T90 also allowed me to examine its shutter in detail, I found that the point where the damper sits is easily accessible without disassembling the camera. Not only for cleaning cardboard strips dipped in lighter fluid as Nano recommends, but also for an angled, pointed probe.
When both shutter curtains are closed, the probe slides over the film window on the back of the camera along the slats to the bottom of the shutter without being able to cause any damage.
The base of the shutter is metal and sits on a die-cast plate in the camera’s plastic chassis. Below the slats there is space for the probe, in the left area the damper can be noticed in its mounting hole when moving the probe.
In this way, the sticky residue can be removed with the probe, which shortens the cleaning process.
For the subsequent cleaning I used the more aggressive acetone on a folded strip of blotting paper (instead of stiff cardstock) which is very absorbent. This allows the bottom of the shutter to be wiped with horizontal movements.
Experimental approach
In a way, this is an experimental approach, as I assume that acetone does not attack the metal found here (shutter blades, shutter frame, die-cast in the chassis).
My previous attempts with acetone on the shutter and die casting of the disassembled T90 have been positive, I have not noticed any negative effects from the treatment. A long-term observation is still pending.
Acetone removes the sticky material directly leaving only faint smudge marks that do not interfere with the operation of the shutter.
Working with the probe resulted in additional sticky dirt on the lamellae, which could easily be removed with a cotton swab soaked in acetone.
The front of the blades must also be cleaned through the lens opening.
To do this, carefully fold up the mirror and work with acetone on cotton swabs.
The shutter blades are sturdy, but care must be taken, especially with the pointed probe.
I let the cleaned T90 run in engine mode, there are no longer any visible adhesions.
The shutter works as usual.
I will observe over the next few days whether this cure has been successful in the long term and whether problems arise.
Disclaimer
I describe a procedure here that has proven itself for my application so far, a long-term observation is pending.
Handling irritating and flammable solvents and sharp probes/tools, and using them on a delicate camera shutter, is critical and should be done with the utmost caution, if at all.
Under no circumstances do I take responsibility for any damage to health and/or camera that may result from copying what I did. Use at your own risk.
It is always the right decision to have such work carried out by licensed professionals.
The T90's vertically-draining shutter with the curtains closed.
View after removing the front cover.
The opening for attaching the damper can be seen at the bottom left.
Working range of the probe
The probe with the shutter covered.
The chassis of the T90 made of plastic.
The shutter area is die-cast metal, as is the base plate under the shutter (arrow).
Material after cleaning
The probe in real use on the T90
After cleaning with probe and blotter strip dipped in acetone.
Nano Burger gives in
„Manage Your EOS Camera’s Sticky Shutter“
Manage Your EOS Camera's Sticky Shutter
Manage Your EOS Camera's Sticky Shutter: It all starts with some wonky shutter function...but not "wonky" in a good way. Sometimes it works fine, sometimes it only exposes half the frame, sometimes nothing at all. Over time, your early model EOS camera stops taking ph…
a guide on how to clean stuck shutter blades in a Canon EOS.
The reason for the sticking is a small damper under the vertically running shutter slats, which decomposes over the decades.
Nano’s method is the silver bullet, I describe here a supplement with tools or an alternative in terms of solvent and medium for absorbing the sticky damper residue.
Situation with the Canon T90
This problem already affects the T90 as the predecessor of the EOS series.
Therefore, Nano’s method can also be applied to „The Queen of the FD system“.
What the situation in the T90 looks like on site, I have described here after dissecting a T90:
Canon T90: Die beiden Hauptfehler nachhaltig beheben
Die T90 löst nicht aus, ein feines Klicken ist zu hören, auf dem Display blinkt ein Pfeil. Ursache: Der Verschlussmagnet bewegt sich nicht. Abhilfe:
www.digicamclub.de
(German)
My conclusion was that if this spot under the shutter is accessible, the problem can be solved simply by cleaning.
However, due to the complex construction of the T90, the shutter can only be reached after massive (and always risky) disassembly, especially of the electronics (flexible circuit board).
Therefore, this way is ruled out, especially if you want to clean several specimens, since this problem affects more and more T90s over time.
Pointed probe, blotting paper and acetone
Since disassembling a T90 also allowed me to examine its shutter in detail, I found that the point where the damper sits is easily accessible without disassembling the camera. Not only for cleaning cardboard strips dipped in lighter fluid as Nano recommends, but also for an angled, pointed probe.
When both shutter curtains are closed, the probe slides over the film window on the back of the camera along the slats to the bottom of the shutter without being able to cause any damage.
The base of the shutter is metal and sits on a die-cast plate in the camera’s plastic chassis. Below the slats there is space for the probe, in the left area the damper can be noticed in its mounting hole when moving the probe.
In this way, the sticky residue can be removed with the probe, which shortens the cleaning process.
For the subsequent cleaning I used the more aggressive acetone on a folded strip of blotting paper (instead of stiff cardstock) which is very absorbent. This allows the bottom of the shutter to be wiped with horizontal movements.
Experimental approach
In a way, this is an experimental approach, as I assume that acetone does not attack the metal found here (shutter blades, shutter frame, die-cast in the chassis).
My previous attempts with acetone on the shutter and die casting of the disassembled T90 have been positive, I have not noticed any negative effects from the treatment. A long-term observation is still pending.
Acetone removes the sticky material directly leaving only faint smudge marks that do not interfere with the operation of the shutter.
Working with the probe resulted in additional sticky dirt on the lamellae, which could easily be removed with a cotton swab soaked in acetone.
The front of the blades must also be cleaned through the lens opening.
To do this, carefully fold up the mirror and work with acetone on cotton swabs.
The shutter blades are sturdy, but care must be taken, especially with the pointed probe.
I let the cleaned T90 run in engine mode, there are no longer any visible adhesions.
The shutter works as usual.
I will observe over the next few days whether this cure has been successful in the long term and whether problems arise.
Disclaimer
I describe a procedure here that has proven itself for my application so far, a long-term observation is pending.
Handling irritating and flammable solvents and sharp probes/tools, and using them on a delicate camera shutter, is critical and should be done with the utmost caution, if at all.
Under no circumstances do I take responsibility for any damage to health and/or camera that may result from copying what I did. Use at your own risk.
It is always the right decision to have such work carried out by licensed professionals.
The T90's vertically-draining shutter with the curtains closed.
View after removing the front cover.
The opening for attaching the damper can be seen at the bottom left.
Working range of the probe
The probe with the shutter covered.
The chassis of the T90 made of plastic.
The shutter area is die-cast metal, as is the base plate under the shutter (arrow).
Material after cleaning
The probe in real use on the T90
After cleaning with probe and blotter strip dipped in acetone.
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