There was no Nikon F1. It was simply the Nikon F.
Not pedantic to correct a substantial inaccuracy. Write to clarify, not confuse. What if someone reading this is just getting into film photography and is trying to learn about different makes and models of cameras? I figured you didn't know any better. If you did know better, why do it? What's so difficult about using the correct designation, especially when your incorrect usage can lead to confusion with a very similar, vocally identical, correct designation in the same sentence? As it was, you made your meaning depend unnecessarily on hyphens being in the right places, when text is increasingly being read on small screens.Ok, Mr. Pedantic.
Same thing with the band Eagles, usually called The Eagles. But it doesn't really carry over. Adding the definite article "The" doesn't substantially change their name or lead to any confusion, and it sounds right because the name is a plural. On the other hand, Mr. SchwinnParamount stated the name of a camera model that never existed, in paragraphs in which he directly compared it to an actual camera with a name which is almost identical. If it were a spoken conversation, it would have gotten very confusing very quickly.We know. I call it the Nikon F1 also. When spoken aloud, just saying "F" sounds odd to me (reminds me of one of my favorite bands, the Eels. Except there's no "the", their official name is just Eels. Diehard fans insist that they should never be called "the Eels", just "Eels", even though it ruins everyone's grammar and sounds idiotic).
Canon really should have named the F-1 something else.
In addition - instead of an A.E lock Canon provide the user with the option of fitting the F1N with the correct focusing screen either the standard centre weighted "A", the 9 % "P" partial, or the 3% "S" spot screen to give you the right metering pattern sensitivity for the subject in hand.I believe that Canon didn't provide an A.E lock on the New F1 because it's a professional camera and they expect the users to know enough about exposure to use the exposure override, whereas the consumer grade A series provide the facility.
To disagree is your prerogative, all I can say is I've had 2 of the 3 F1N's I own (I bought the last one last year), for more than 25 years and have never missed it having an A.E. lock.Benjiboy, I disagree with you on two points. Exposure lock is not an amateur feature. It is a useful one. If you are photographing snails then you have plenty of time to make adjustments. With any faster moving subjects exposure lock is still a great convenience. Changing the metering pattern is not a replacement for exposure lock. If I am metering off of a plain white subject and I want the subject to look white in the final image then it doesn't matter what metering pattern I use. If I don't add some exposure the white subject will look gray in the final image. Limited area and spot metering can be very useful but . Not every scene has a convenient mid tone to meter off of so some judgment will always be required. The cameras we are talking about were not nearly sophisticated enough that you could point them at any subject and rely on the meter's results in every case and without adjustment. Today people who use digital cameras have HDR and layers and many other tools to even out or correct exposure. Film cameras from the 1970s and 1980s did not offer these possibilities. When I use a camera like a Minolta X-700 I use exposure lock most often when there is backlighting is present. I will tilt the camera down, lock my reading, tilt back up and shoot. I am not against the F-1N. For me it doesn't have so many advantages over the older F-1 and F-1n models. When it comes to the Nikon F2, in most cases I prefer to use other Nikon models: Nikkormat FTN/FT2/FT3, FE, FE2, N2000, N2020 (very good as a maual focus camera), N90S/F90X (I have one of each). What I like most about the F2 is that the fnder has no distortion at the edges.
That holds true for AI and later lenses only, pre AI lenses will damage the aperture coupling on many later bodies if yout try to mount them.
Pick up a gallon of milk with a 4lr44 battery.
Not pedantic to correct a substantial inaccuracy. .
There was no Nikon F1. It was simply the Nikon F.
I buy the silver oxide (better for cameras) in bulk from sr44.com. Cheaper than the store by far and you can just stack them to make a 4 unit pack.
I thought they were outlawed?
Put in 357's, and make a little doughnut spacer out of a strip of paper and some white glue. Set your meter to 1/3 stop higher ASA for starters. The 357 was the only battery to give 50% or greater flat output curve comparison to the 625. Do not use modern 625 alkalines. Their discharge curve is horrendous. You never pin down an ASA on them.
Unless the meter is not dependent on specific voltage for accuracy, like the Pentaxes with the bridge circuit.The other technologies are no better than alkaline on that count, which is unfit for meter use.
I agree the New Canon F1 is closer in specification to the Nikon F3 than the Nikon F2, which is closer to the original Canon F1.The F-1n came out in 76 and the New F-1 in 81, the Nikon F2 came out in 71, so the F-1n/New had quite a bit of time to get "sophisticated."
I think the F-1 is a fine camera, but I don't own Canon FD gear, hence my use of Nikon and other systems. I think the F2 is probably close to the perfect camera, awesome build, etc. for that time and I'll use one any day of the week without a thought. It's probably more accurate to compare the F-1n and New F-1 to the Nikon F3, rather than the F2. Honestly though, why even put them into a comparison test?
This is Funny.. I was just thinking of the F2 in last couple of days and saw this thread. What a gorgous camera. I love the robust chunky look to it. They are still fitching a pretty penny too on auction sites. Looks like they were built like tanks too. awesome!
Todd
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