Yes, when film is heavily over exposed the light will spill/fog/pipe onto the surrounding film area. I would be not be surprised if it went into the sprocket area also.nd on one roll the frames very overexposed, and the edges of the frame were blurred, as if the light has 'spilled' over the edges.
Yes, when film is heavily over exposed the light will spill/fog/pipe onto the surrounding film area. I would be not be surprised if it went into the sprocket area also.
Check the shutter speeds in manual mode, if the error continues it the camera's electronics. The camera uses a electronic timing circuit. I don't know if its in the main processor chip or a separate chip.
I would consider returning the camera and looking for another.
Also, the meter reading is consistently out by 2 stops (its over-exposing). I do have an AD screen fitted with the average pattern reading, but even when pointed at a completely white wall, it still reads over. I shot mostly with a hand held meter because of this.
So I recently sold my K1000 to buy an New F1.. crazy how that's possible, but oh well.
Does it also read over in manual mode? If true, then the meter needs recalibration. There should be internal pots intended for technicians to recalibrate it, inside the camera.
If this problem is only on AUTO mode, it still could be corrected with recalibration.
The Canon New F-1 deserves proper technical service.
Crazy? Sounds logical. You sold a K1000 to get a New F-1? I sold my Nikon F3 and my original, mint, made-in-germany Rollei 35 to buy a special edition of the F-1N.
The K1000 is a good camera, but not the best Pentax out there. Even the KX, of the same year and the same line, is a better camera. The MX a much better camera.
While, for me, the Canon New F-1 is the best 35mm camera i've used -- and i've used many different ones*. I can't think of any pro manual focus 35mm camera that could top it. Perhaps the Pentax LX, but i haven't tried one, plus it has a not-so-good reliability record. Perhaps there is a Minolta that tops it (XE-5 maybe?), but the Canon FD lens line is more interesting.
I've owned the K1000, MX, New F-1, so I speak from personal experience here.
So I advise you to take that camera to a tech, because the problem isn't big at all. Even without a meter the F-1N is an excellent camera: the viewfinder quality is perhaps the best i've ever seen, the shutter and mirror action is very smooth, and it's tough as it can get. My only complaint is that the ergonomics aren't so good. Pentax cameras, in general, have better ergonomics.
If you are tempted to sell the F-1 then consider staying with Pentax. I think the MX with some K-series lenses would be a good alternative to the F-1 with FD lenses. I'm considering buying a second MX right now! Pentax lenses, in particular the 70's Takumars and K or A-series bayonet lenses, are second to none, and I must admit this, even being such a Canon fanboy.
* Pentax SP, SPII, K1000, MX, P30, Nikon F, F2, F3, FT, FT2, EL, EL2, FE, FE2, FM, Canon FX, FT, FTb, AE1, A1, F-1, New F-1, EOS5, Olympus OM-1, OM-2, Leicaflex, Yashica FR-1.
Thanks for your response,
With regards to selling my K1000, I meant it's crazy that it was worth enough to use the money from the sale to buy an F1 new! In great condition as well (bar the issues). Must be a bit of a cult camera, the k1000. Whilst it was a fantastic camera
I'm glad you hold the F1 new in such high esteem, I was beginning to have serious doubts about keeping it but i think I'll just send it off for a good cla and repair. It's by far the best camera I've used and would be great shame to get rid. And funnily enough, the ergonomics suit me well; it fits perfectly in my big hands.
Anyway, thanks for your advice! Much appreciated.
Might be worth sending it overseas to get a proper job done?
They were "very expensive" in the days when they were current although I worked in a pro camera dealers store, I couldn't afford one even with my staff discount because as far as I remember the F1-N AE body with the FD 50mm f1.4 was about £1,000 which in the early 1980s was great deal of money.This was a very expensive pro camera; it's better to send it to the best guy you can get.
Not according to page 30 of the instruction manual Flavio, it says to get AE exposure you need the AE finder. and you wouldn't get the shutter speed scale at the bottom of the viewfinder.As far as I know, aperture priority AE works even with the plain finder on.
flavio81- I took your advice and picked up a mint (this thing hasn't got a scratch) canon 35mm f3.5 for a brilliant price after my 28mm f2.8 aperture blades kept getting stuck. Off on a road trip up the coast next week, so a perfect time to test it out!
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