Canon EOS 1V PB-E2 grip and weather sealing

[JW1970]

Hi folks.
I own an EOS 1V and have been looking at purchasing a PB-E2 grip for when i shoot faster moving wildlife, sports, etc., but just wondered if weather sealing was affected with the grip added? I presume not but am keen for any feedback.
Also, how easy is it to get hold of the NP-E2 nickel-hydride pack and charger?
Cheers,
Juz

 

[Dr Croubie]

As far as I know (although i'm too tired to verify before I go to bed), 1V + PBE2 = 1VHS. So just look up the weather-specs on that and it should be the same.
(with the usual disclaimer that "weather sealed" doesn't mean anything solid in terms of what it will and won't survive, but I don't think you'll diminish it from what you've already got).

 

[JW1970]

Thanks!

 

[Poisson Du Jour]

The EOS 1V is a bit more (but not a lot!) weather-sealed than my veteran EOS 1N with power drive booster E1 (The E2 version differs with having matched FEL and AEL buttons on the drive). I can assure you I have used my camera in appallingly wet and very cold conditions in Australia and New Zealand where I have stopped functioning, but not the camera. Moisture anywhere around the drive terminals is not going to cause a seizure. That is the nature of these cameras' design: they don't give up. I don't think it there is anything to worry about at all unless you are taking the EOS 1V and the booster into the bath with you.

 

[StoneNYC]

The EOS 1V is a bit more (but not a lot!) weather-sealed than my veteran EOS 1N with power drive booster E1 (The E2 version differs with having matched FEL and AEL buttons on the drive). I can assure you I have used my camera in appallingly wet and very cold conditions in Australia and New Zealand where I have stopped functioning, but not the camera. Moisture anywhere around the drive terminals is not going to cause a seizure. That is the nature of these cameras' design: they don't give up. I don't think it there is anything to worry about at all unless you are taking the EOS 1V and the booster into the bath with you.

I shot hurricane sandy with my 1V and 5Dmk2

The 5Dmk2 didn't make it after the 20 foot wave crashed down on me... But the 1V did...

The battery / booster was NOT on it.

Looking at the grip I have (which is from the 1N but works on the 1V just the same as the official HS grip) I can't see it having any weather sealing at all, I don't know about the HS version but I would suggest NOT using the camera in severely wet rain conditions with the grip, better sealed without it.

 

[JW1970]

Thanks Gary (and Stone NYC) - much appreciated. Am about to pull the trigger on a grip but wondered how easy it was to get the NP-E2 nickel-hydride pack and charger in Oz? Am guessing B&H Photography in the US is the best bet.
Cheers,
Justin

 

[Dr Croubie]

Is there any particular reason you want the NP-E2?
It's the only way to get the full 10fps, for sure, but do you really want to burn through a roll in under 3 seconds?
Or is it just for the convenience of not having to fiddle with AAs in the field?
I've been using Eneloops in the grip on my EOS 3 (can't remember what grip, think it's the PB-E2) with no problems, they last forever.
I couldn't see any of the battery packs at B+H, only the charger back ordered for $300. I'd steer clear of second-hand battery packs because you never know how long they'll last or how much they've been (ab)used, especially with NiMH tech, although 2nd-hand chargers should be fine.
Or would a new NP-E3 also fit?

 

[Poisson Du Jour]

Is there any particular reason you want the NP-E2?
It's the only way to get the full 10fps, for sure, but do you really want to burn through a roll in under 3 seconds?
Or is it just for the convenience of not having to fiddle with AAs in the field?
I've been using Eneloops in the grip on my EOS 3 (can't remember what grip, think it's the PB-E2) with no problems, they last forever.
I couldn't see any of the battery packs at B+H, only the charger back ordered for $300. I'd steer clear of second-hand battery packs because you never know how long they'll last or how much they've been (ab)used, especially with NiMH tech, although 2nd-hand chargers should be fine.
Or would a new NP-E3 also fit?

All power drive boosters will reach 10fps irrespective of battery source. What is overlooked is the specific set up that allows this to be achieved. There are a few very, very, very few specific set ups where that will actually be achieved e.g. high ISO film, high response EF lenses (L-series) and fast aperture (e.g. f1.2) — conditions that would suit occasions of wildlife behaviour, motor racing (e.g. trace-shooting an accident) etc. For anybody else including legions of hobbyists, it can be a penalising investment in additional weight, even if it provides more reliable secondary power source than the patently lousy 2CR5 batteries — even then only proven with persistent, heavy shooting. This is the guiding philosophy of why I had a power drive booster E1 fitted to my EOS 1N — choice and enhanced reliability of battery power, not the fact that in an ideal set up it will easily chew through 36 exposures in about 3.4 seconds (the average is 3.8sec), except I don't have (and don't want) any of the ultra-fast (in terms of aperture and response speed) L-series lenses to achieve that.

I concur with the comment on avoiding used batteries; this can be a bad strategy unless you know the history of the battery's use, recharging and storage. B&H will probably ship the battery back by surface (sea mail); read their Shipping Restrictions about batteries. They specifically state lithium batteries will not be shipped by air, but I don't know about rechargeables of any sort.

 

[jcc]

I think I'm on my 4th used 1vHS (somehow, I just love this model), and I've never had them come with the NP-E2, and always with the 8-AA cartridge. I really don't see the justification for the NP-E2. Even when I had the 1Ds, I never thought to stick the battery in the 1vHS, but I'm sure you must have your reasons.

It'd probably be best to get a used charger and battery locally. Then get a generic battery online, which will most likely not latch correctly, BUT you can easily swap the plastic end caps (no electronic dismantling involved) with a screw driver. That's what I did, and it was flawless.

 

[JW1970]

Hi again everyone.
thanks for all the advice - i might just try the 8-AA cartridge initially as it is more for just having the flexibility/convenience than anything else and will see how they go when in the field. I have a 1Dmk4 DSLR as well so am used to the size/weight, etc., but am looking at doing more B&W film wildlife photography and thought the upped frame rate wouldn't hurt - i think the 8-AA cartridge gives 6FPS and that is more than enough i reckon.
Thanks again folks.
Cheers,
JW

 

[StoneNYC]

All power drive boosters will reach 10fps irrespective of battery source. What is overlooked is the specific set up that allows this to be achieved. There are a few very, very, very few specific set ups where that will actually be achieved e.g. high ISO film, high response EF lenses (L-series) and fast aperture (e.g. f1.2) — conditions that would suit occasions of wildlife behaviour, motor racing (e.g. trace-shooting an accident) etc. For anybody else including legions of hobbyists, it can be a penalising investment in additional weight, even if it provides more reliable secondary power source than the patently lousy 2CR5 batteries — even then only proven with persistent, heavy shooting. This is the guiding philosophy of why I had a power drive booster E1 fitted to my EOS 1N — choice and enhanced reliability of battery power, not the fact that in an ideal set up it will easily chew through 36 exposures in about 3.4 seconds (the average is 3.8sec), except I don't have (and don't want) any of the ultra-fast (in terms of aperture and response speed) L-series lenses to achieve that.

I concur with the comment on avoiding used batteries; this can be a bad strategy unless you know the history of the battery's use, recharging and storage. B&H will probably ship the battery back by surface (sea mail); read their Shipping Restrictions about batteries. They specifically state lithium batteries will not be shipped by air, but I don't know about rechargeables of any sort.

This is partially wrong, there were two kinds of grips, one that boosted to only 6fps, and one that went to 10fps, the difference was either the rechargeable battery vs the AA's insert, OR, that there was a secondary lesser AA's battery pack that had less juice. But I can't recall if the smaller AA booster was simply to replace the smaller grip and still only shot at 3fps or if that was the 6fps grip.

Either way, not all grips will boost to 10fps.

Honesty, I removed the grip on mine, it's too heavy and too intimidating for anything journalistic which was what I was using it for at the time.

I have it still, in case I ever travel to a country outside the states I want to be able to use the AA's but that's the only reason I kept it.

I think finding a new rechargeable batter in OZ or heck anywhere will be difficult, the only place that would have them is Canon CPS services which is their pro service center. I know they have some 1V parts. But that's probably it for a new rechargeable. I thought about looking for one but they aren't worth the price (almost as much as the camera costs used).

Good luck!

 

[JW1970]

Thanks again StoneNYC!

 

[flatulent1]

You can get 10fps with simple AA alkalines or rechargeables by plugging the little hole in the end of the battery tray with a wad of paper, or covering it with a piece of tape.

I read it somewhere on the internet, so it must be true...

:munch:

 

[EdSawyer]

I have at least 4 of the NP-E2 batteries, and would sell you one. They are hard to abuse, since they will only fit the NC-E2 charger. Generally they are long-lived and very handy vs. fiddling around with AAs, plus they don't leak if left in the camera a long time, like AAs will do sometimes.

NP-E3 batteries are the same, but have a different end cap. If you have an NP-E2 battery you can swap it's end cap onto an NP-E3. Both charge off the NC-E2 just fine. You can also rebuild these packs if you are so inclined and handy with a soldering iron. I've not had to do so but it is doable (instructions online).

 

[StoneNYC]

I have at least 4 of the NP-E2 batteries, and would sell you one. They are hard to abuse, since they will only fit the NC-E2 charger. Generally they are long-lived and very handy vs. fiddling around with AAs, plus they don't leak if left in the camera a long time, like AAs will do sometimes.

NP-E3 batteries are the same, but have a different end cap. If you have an NP-E2 battery you can swap it's end cap onto an NP-E3. Both charge off the NC-E2 just fine. You can also rebuild these packs if you are so inclined and handy with a soldering iron. I've not had to do so but it is doable (instructions online).

1 my 1N battery pack (which I used on my 1V for a short time) certainly leaked and exploded it's acid on me, worse than the AA batteries ever have.

2 wish I knew I could rebuild them

3 I kept the charger just in case...

Still sort of prefer the less intimidating nature of no pack, but miss the grip sometimes.

Would love to see those soldering instructions.

Surprised your battery still works...

 

[JW1970]

Thanks for the tip Ed.
Cheers,
JW