The FTB does, however, suffer from shutter capping/bounce. If you're looking at purchasing one, run a test roll at the higher shutter speeds. I have two now and neither will operate properly above a 60th of a second. About half the frame gets exposed and the rest is blank. Too bad; they are nice, well-built cameras.
Shutter bounce is where one of the curtains bounces back, either when opening or closing. A lot of horizontal shutter curtain cameras can suffer from it. I've had a Nikon F2 and an F that did it. The F2 had curtain bounce on the opening curtain, so it'd leave a black line on the edge. The F had closing curtain bounce, so there'd be an overexposed line on one edge. It might be easily fixable. The capping issue is likely a curtain balance issue. That usually is very easy to solve.
Not remembering if they're the same or not.
They used a leather pad running in a curved SS piece. If you lost the pad it bounced pretty good.
Sometimes you could find the pad somewhere in the transport. lightly chewed up.
I have two FTBn bodies and neither ( SO FAR !! ) suffers from 'shutter bounce' -- I took off the base-plates and touched a minute amount of oil into the various pivots and cogs that I could see moving and they both wind on 'sweetly' now after no service since the 1970's .
I have two FTBn bodies and neither ( SO FAR !! ) suffers from 'shutter bounce' -- I took off the base-plates and touched a minute amount of oil into the various pivots and cogs that I could see moving and they both wind on 'sweetly' now after no service since the 1970's .
I have an FTb that works perfectly, but I'll take your advice and give the moving parts a smidgen of oil. The stuff sold on ebay for servicing model railway locomotives is good, it's very light machine oil in a kind of hypodermic syringe in a pen. Just the job for mechanical cameras, as it puts as little as a 1mm dot exactly where its needed. Costs around a fiver.