I'm referring to used camera gear. Prices and selection in japan is huge, but VAT and customs is pretty much unavoidable in EU. In US they do not face this problem, they get it at price paid to Japanese seller. Used photo gear that is.You have to pay tha VAT anyway. If would by a camera from a polish dealer or from a japanese one. And VAT+zero = VAT
But in that link it specifically mentions reliability issues with T60.The last FD mount body was the T60 which was actually made by Cosina. If it were me, I would choose it over any A-series or other T-series models despite its "plasticy" appearance.
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/SLRs/t60/index.htm
But in that link it specifically mentions reliability issues with T60.
The last FD mount body was the T60 which was actually made by Cosina. If it were me, I would choose it over any A-series or other T-series models despite its "plasticy" appearance.
http://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/companies/canon/fdresources/SLRs/t60/index.htm
I replaced the foam on my F1 and FT, FTb. THe F1 had/has the most mirror slap
Nothing is off at all, theyre all in great shape mechanically..
I picked up a Canon AE-1 with 50mm f1.4 last week at a thrift store. Unfortunately, the camera doesn't work so I have a 50mm with nothing to use it on. I was wondering what body to buy.
One of our fellows at Apug is a Canon camera technician from back then and he tells a different story concerning squeak repair without deep disassembly.The "shutter squeak" syndrome is the mirror governor going out of lubrication. There are easy DIY ways to solve it. I can solve that issue in about 10 minutes.
The T90 is a wonder, may be the best SLR I ever had. The EOS3 was on par with it, but for 2 or 3 times the weight (OK, it had an autofocus capability) BUT the shutter is prone to failure. Mine is stuck again, and only serves as a paper-weightI think the T-90 has an electronic shutter. If you want a purely mechanical camera, a Canon FT-B is a good choice. It has Quickload to boot!
I actually bought a T70 to sell and then had the battery door be so ready to break that it did so when I first loaded batteries in it to test it. Barely broke even on the lenses, the body is somewhere around.Even the T90 has battery compartment lock issues. At my sample recently the locking lever came off at normal operation. The counter-ring at the inside has broken off. A flimsy design once you have the chance to look at it. And a difficult repair.
The only A or T series model, where I did not come across at least one sample with broken battery chamber lock, is the T70. And I got many in hand much more than any other model.
But this should not deter one. With several models it is an easy repair.Or even could be prevented from the start by modification.
And with the A-1/AE-1 a patch of matte black textile tape is hardly visible and works perfect. And that battery goes a long way. No need to open that compartment for a long time.
I actually bought a T70 to sell and then had the battery door be so ready to break that it did so when I first loaded batteries in it to test it. Barely broke even on the lenses, the body is somewhere around.
That was the one with focus assist? How does it load? I always assumed it was through the bottom like on of the T-series. Didn't it take two AA's?One of the worst battery doors of all time is on the Canon AL-1. If you find one without a broken latch, it's a miracle.
That was the one with focus assist? How does it load? I always assumed it was through the bottom like on of the T-series. Didn't it take two AA's?
One of our fellows at Apug is a Canon camera technician from back then and he tells a different story concerning squeak repair without deep disassembly.
I just want to add a caveat with respect to Canon EF Black Beauty. While it's a great camera to use.
I don't get your point. I prefer cameras that do not necessitate to switch them on/off. But there are several models that got such switch.
And once there is such switch, I do not see a disadvantage on combing it with a mechanical shutter lock, to avoid also plain mechanical shutrer action.
I guess you want mechanical operation without the meter draining the battery. and then thus want both locks to be operated indivual.
I don't get your point. I prefer cameras that do not necessitate to switch them on/off. But there are several models that got such switch.
And once there is such switch, I do not see a disadvantage on combing it with a mechanical shutter lock, to avoid also plain mechanical shutrer action.
I guess you want mechanical operation without the meter draining the battery. and then thus want both locks to be operated indivual.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?