Canon AE-1 Program or the Canon F1N
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I had the old AE-1 and the right now the old F-1. I pefer the F-1 because if the light meter battrey dies it will kept on working.
Jeff
Jeff
F-1n hands down
The F-1N beats the AE-1 Program in every possible way (except weight, or lack thereof). The question is not which one is better, but rather if you are willing to pay the premium.
Also, the F-1n and F-1N are different cameras. The latter has a hybrid electronically controlled shutter, the older F-1n is fully mechanical. Most accessories are not interchangeable (eg. focusing screens).
Also, the F-1n and F-1N are different cameras. The latter has a hybrid electronically controlled shutter, the older F-1n is fully mechanical. Most accessories are not interchangeable (eg. focusing screens).
The F-1 is very expensive. I still see them only at collector's prices.
I hate using manual control with my AE-1 too. It tells you the suggested aperture for the shutter speed but you can't tell what aperture you're at so it is pretty much useless IMO.
If you want a good match needle Canon FD body, the FTb (or the N version) or the TX are much cheaper and they give you a simple meter needle and aperture needle that you match up. The FTbN shows the shutter speed in the viewfinder which is useful if you like to change the shutter speed dial while looking at your scene. The TX only goes to 1/500 and lacks self timer, shutter lock, battery check, etc. Both the FTb and TX take Mercury cells for their meters unfortunately.
There is a manual A-series camera as well but it may be rare, the AT-1. It will take a more modern 6V alkaline battery.
I hate using manual control with my AE-1 too. It tells you the suggested aperture for the shutter speed but you can't tell what aperture you're at so it is pretty much useless IMO.
If you want a good match needle Canon FD body, the FTb (or the N version) or the TX are much cheaper and they give you a simple meter needle and aperture needle that you match up. The FTbN shows the shutter speed in the viewfinder which is useful if you like to change the shutter speed dial while looking at your scene. The TX only goes to 1/500 and lacks self timer, shutter lock, battery check, etc. Both the FTb and TX take Mercury cells for their meters unfortunately.
There is a manual A-series camera as well but it may be rare, the AT-1. It will take a more modern 6V alkaline battery.
Another vote for the F-1N (or even the original F-1/F-1n)
Duncan
Duncan
What don't you like about the metering exactly? Match needle will be the same way, it'll just point to the aperture and you'll have no idea what aperture you're at. Or does the F-1n show you your f/stop? (AE-1 classic and EF have match needle, but no f/stop signifier)
That's the one thing that Canon dropped the ball on I think... I like how some Nikons have the little window to see the aperture setting.
That's the one thing that Canon dropped the ball on I think... I like how some Nikons have the little window to see the aperture setting.
Another vote for the F1N - I have two and have put a lot of film through both. There is a wide range of accessories available out there for very reasonable prices. The FD glass is some of the best there is.
Gord
Gord
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I have an F1n that's over 25 years old and it works great. It's built like a tank. The F-1n will work when the battery dies, but it has a limited range of shutter speeds. It also as a metal shutter curtain.
I agree with holmburgers. What's the deal? Most that I've seen don't show you the aperature dial setting from the viewfinder.
It's not to hard to know "I'm already on f/5.6, it says I need f/8, that means "X" clicks to the left and I'm set"
If you're so set on rapid split second timing where you cannot pause for a second to think, then manual is NOT the setting you want to use. Set it on one of the many automatic modes that are top notch and more than capable of making the choice for you. Just set the FD lens to the auto mode, choose your shutter speed, and you're done. No need to worry. Whatever that F-stop in the viewfinder is suggested is what it will use.
'Nuff said.
That BEING said, I think the F1N is most likely the better model, but don't scoff at a good working AE-1P. It's a solid camera. I've been using one as my sole camera for about 16 years now.
It's not to hard to know "I'm already on f/5.6, it says I need f/8, that means "X" clicks to the left and I'm set"
If you're so set on rapid split second timing where you cannot pause for a second to think, then manual is NOT the setting you want to use. Set it on one of the many automatic modes that are top notch and more than capable of making the choice for you. Just set the FD lens to the auto mode, choose your shutter speed, and you're done. No need to worry. Whatever that F-stop in the viewfinder is suggested is what it will use.
'Nuff said.
That BEING said, I think the F1N is most likely the better model, but don't scoff at a good working AE-1P. It's a solid camera. I've been using one as my sole camera for about 16 years now.
I agree with Markster, who in turn agrees with me... 
I shoot exclusively manual on both my AE-1P and EF, and it's just a matter of knowing where you're at on the f/stop ring, or taking 2 seconds to look at it.
Unless the F-1n shows you what your f/stop is in the view-finder, I'm not sure what we're discussing really.
I shoot exclusively manual on both my AE-1P and EF, and it's just a matter of knowing where you're at on the f/stop ring, or taking 2 seconds to look at it.
Unless the F-1n shows you what your f/stop is in the view-finder, I'm not sure what we're discussing really.
The F-1N shows you what your f-stop is in the viewfinder.
Duncan
Duncan
DAMN!
To eliminate the confusion, I bought both. 
Last edited by a moderator:
My old F-1 doesn't show the Fstop, but I can feel it.
Jeff
Jeff
Strong in this one, the Force is.
Actually the "a" series cameras do not have a true match needle system. Well, except for the AT-1
If you want to see how a match needle system works take a look at it.
For you, you have determined a work around, not everyone wants to do that.
No it's not hard but for most people it is an extra step to remember.
BTW F1N uses new batteries, F1 & F1n use mercury and need an adapter or work around.
I guess I didn't realize the true meaning of match needle metering. I can see how it would be really nice to have.
Once this thread is concerned about the F-1n, my I slightly hijack it and ask why would one choose the F-1n over the New F-1 which was introduced afterwards?
Some folks prefer the battery-independent all mechanical F-1n system. Other than that, I don't think there are any real advantages over the newer F-1N, not taking into account the cheaper price.
David A. Goldfarb
Moderator
The New F-1 shutter will operate without a battery at B, 1/90 (x-sync), and 1/125-1/2000 sec.
I like the F-1N (New) over the F-1 and F-1n. I switched from the old to the new entirely a few years ago and have been quite happy. But the F-1/F-1n does have a long list of advantages.
Purely mechanical, other than the meter.
Mirror lockup
Booster T Finder
250 exposure back instead of 100
Motor MF Grip is far easier to hold on to compared to wispy Motor FN AE grip
10 batteries for motor instead of 12
Built-in intervalometer in Motor MD or easily added Interval Timer L for Motor MF
The F-1N does have a couple of perks:
Proper hotshoe, even with Speed Finder
Meter illumination built in
Readily available meter batteries
NiCd packs for motor
Brighter finder
Aperture selection visible in finder
Easier auto exposure options (the Servo EE Finder is just silly!) but I only shoot in manual mode anyway
Duncan
Purely mechanical, other than the meter.
Mirror lockup
Booster T Finder
250 exposure back instead of 100
Motor MF Grip is far easier to hold on to compared to wispy Motor FN AE grip
10 batteries for motor instead of 12
Built-in intervalometer in Motor MD or easily added Interval Timer L for Motor MF
The F-1N does have a couple of perks:
Proper hotshoe, even with Speed Finder
Meter illumination built in
Readily available meter batteries
NiCd packs for motor
Brighter finder
Aperture selection visible in finder
Easier auto exposure options (the Servo EE Finder is just silly!) but I only shoot in manual mode anyway
Duncan
I just acquired the new F-1 and was pleasantly surprised that the split prism screen doesn't blackout even when used with bellows. And of course aperture priority is an advantage in these types of setup too.
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