Cannibalising flashguns - suggestions?

Sim2 · Jul 26, 2010

Hi there,

I have a home-made ringflash diffuser that was made for my eos1n's and metz gun that worked really well. Having now got a hass the unit it the wrong size to fit on the hot shoe mount. So, back to the drawing board for version 2!

The thought is to continue to use the ring diffuser but with a different flash head - but which one? Have adapted the unit to attach to the camera/lens by a lee fiter holder (which works great) but the attachment panel now blocks the autometer on the flash head. Fine with ttl on the eos but the hass....... :rolleyes:

Now looking for a secondhand unit that can be cannibalised to potentially mount the autometer bit on the outside of the ringflash (to measure the reflected light) and ideally has variable manual output control to try to match ambient light etc. and might work with the eos as well as the hass. Current metz unit has no variable manual control .

My thoughts are vivitar 283/285 or a metz 45 (model?) - any thoughts/suggestions etc from the audience will be appreciated!

Cheers,
Sim2.
*blinded by the light*

John Koehrer · Jul 26, 2010

How about a short length of fibre optic from the sensor to the edge of the ringlight?
Both the 283 & 285 have remote sensor cables available. The sensor unplugs from the body & plugs into the open end of the cable.

domaz · Jul 26, 2010

Make sure you know how to discharge the BIG capacitors in flashes correctly before getting near them. Otherwise it could cannibalize you.

mr rusty · Jul 26, 2010

Make sure you know how to discharge the BIG capacitors in flashes correctly before getting near them. Otherwise it could cannibalize you

Trying to turn two not good flashes into one good one (one not working, one broken shoe) I charged up the "combined" unit, and it wouldn't work. So I opened her up, and thought, "perhaps I should discharge the cap first"....with my handy screwdriver.

Much to my surprise the spark/bang was 100 times bigger than I was expecting (My other half came running from the other side of the house). THEN I read up on flash caps.... and THEN I vowed never to muck around with them again!

Sim2 · Jul 26, 2010

domaz said:
Make sure you know how to discharge the BIG capacitors in flashes correctly before getting near them. Otherwise it could cannibalize you.

A very sage point indeed - remember getting a bit of a "tickle" from one years ago now that you mention this :rolleyes:

Any advice on discharging safely? (the flashgun, not me!)

Mike Kennedy · Jul 26, 2010

I blackened both thumb nails and added 3 years to my checkout date when a P&S flash discharged.Personally,I wouldn't go near one.

Sim2 · Jul 26, 2010

Mike Kennedy said:
I blackened both thumb nails and added 3 years to my checkout date .

Lol. Deep down I know you are correct - leave well alone. But still horribly intrigued.

Suspect I will go down the route of a 285 with external sensor. However o) if I went for a metz 45 it is just the sensor that I would need to get out and onto a longer wire. Thoughts? yeah I know, run run run away!

Cheers for the input though - 'tis being taken seriously actually.

domaz · Jul 27, 2010

This PDF seems to illustrate discharing a flash cap pretty well. You should be realistic with yourself about how dexterous or clumsy you are though. They are still points where one false move and you could create a short and blow something up (possibly yourself).

John Koehrer · Jul 27, 2010

The pdf above covers it. I also use a 10 Ohm 110 W wire wound resistor. I added a length of wire and probe tips.

It really helps if you remove the battery first, the caps begins recharging real quick.

Depending on the flash or camera it can get mighty tight working around it so I usually use the ends of the flash tube for discharge.

brucemuir · Aug 7, 2010

Hasselblad made a ringflash for medical work/macro. They pop up for sale once in awhile but have long been discountinued as far as I know.

What were you intending on shooting with it?

I have one that is rewired to run off a Norman 200B but there is no auto thyrister on this thing so you have to adjust power at the Norman pack.

At 200 ws it gives a LOT of light.

Steve Smith · Aug 7, 2010

John Koehrer said:
I also use a 10 Ohm 110 W wire wound resistor.

100 ohms and 10 watts would be a better combination.

Steve.

tac · Aug 7, 2010

Just another caution; I've seen "discharged" 283 caps spot-weld stainless steel.

Sim2 · Aug 7, 2010

brucemuir said:
Hasselblad made a ringflash for medical work/macro. They pop up for sale once in awhile but have long been discountinued as far as I know.

Oh no - a hassleblad branded ringflash :eek:

Just when I thought I could stop buying stuff for my 'blad - lol! Think that getting a mistress would be cheaper!!!

I have used my original "cheapo" for occasional portraits/fashion stuff, really liked the idea of trying it on the 'blad but preferably without oodles of expense.
The "cheapo" original will work with the 'blad but the flashgun actually gets in the way more than on the eos and has only full power manual (no ttl metering which could be used on the eos) - would be a nice option to be able to choose a manual output setting.

Btw, rather gone off the idea of pulling a 'gun to pieces after all the various warnings.

John Koehrer · Aug 7, 2010

How embarrassing!

Cannibalising flashguns - suggestions?

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